Thermostat. What temp to use? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 02-09-2014, 06:11 AM Thread Starter
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Thermostat. What temp to use?

Recently my truck has been running a little cooler than normal. And no - not just because of the COLD east coast temps. Was a balmy 30 the other day and the gauge was low. Heat takes a little longer to warm up as well. Any suggestions of what temp thermostat I should replace it with? The current one was done by my mechanic a while ago when my water pump crapped the bed a few winters ago. Truck is basically stock with no crazy mods. Still runs fine at 377k. Any input is appreciated.
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post #2 of 13 Old 02-09-2014, 07:47 AM
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These engines where designed to use a 203* t-stat. http://www.dieselsite.com/dieselsite203thermostat.aspx

Jack
97 F250 Xlt, built E4od, D60 swap, Baby swamps, tunes by Dp
1.0 housing w/ wwII, 203* t-stat, diy 6637, 4" exhaust
Diy intercooled, 6.0 fan, Diy 140v Idm, Isspro Ev gauges
On board air, E-fuel, 6" lift on 35's
322000 miles
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post #3 of 13 Old 02-09-2014, 10:39 AM
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im running a 190*,heats great in the winter months pulls cool in the summer!

96' F250 Ext.cab lb 4x4
stock tires
160K
6 pos chip
Pryo,tranny and boost gauges
fpr shimed, 3'' down pipe,

mods to come: bronco tank, rear shackle flip, sonnax shift kit
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post #4 of 13 Old 02-09-2014, 11:50 AM
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I put a 203 in and my mpg's and power have made a great improvement with it.
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post #5 of 13 Old 02-10-2014, 06:18 AM
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I put in a 203* and I do not like it. I did not see any improved power or millage and I have found that now when I am towing 12K in the heat the truck runs too hot for my liking. I can hit 230 - 240 easy pulling a long hill even with my cooling mods. Never had that problem with the 190*. I think the 203 is fine for a DD or a truck that pulls light loads but be aware if you pull heavy in the mountains like I do. I am not saying that it is a bad thing or that it is a bad product. I think it was a quality piece it just didn't work for me. Others have had it work better for them. But, I will be switching back to a 190* once it warms up here.

1997 Crew Cab Long Bed 4X4 (DRW Conversion) Auto. 280K miles
Stainless Irate Bellowed Up Pipes
Fresh Turbo with 1.0 Housing & Wicked Wheel II, 3" downpipe with 4" exhaust, Intercooled, 6.0 Fan, 39 gal rear fuel tank + 70 gal Transfer Flow in the bed, Hydroboost, Completely New Suspension (Springs, Shocks, Bushings),08 Rear Diff Cover, Baby Swamps, Hydra Chip with Swamps Tunes, and Swamps IDM, Dually Swap, Tru-Trac locker in the rear, Red Head Steering Box and Borgeson Steering Shaft

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post #6 of 13 Old 02-10-2014, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChallengerRV View Post
I put in a 203* and I do not like it. I did not see any improved power or millage and I have found that now when I am towing 12K in the heat the truck runs too hot for my liking. I can hit 230 - 240 easy pulling a long hill even with my cooling mods. Never had that problem with the 190*. I think the 203 is fine for a DD or a truck that pulls light loads but be aware if you pull heavy in the mountains like I do. I am not saying that it is a bad thing or that it is a bad product. I think it was a quality piece it just didn't work for me. Others have had it work better for them. But, I will be switching back to a 190* once it warms up here.
I tow 15k plus in elevations from 1000-10,000 ft on grades up to12%. Try a 6.0 fan, it works very well.

Jack
97 F250 Xlt, built E4od, D60 swap, Baby swamps, tunes by Dp
1.0 housing w/ wwII, 203* t-stat, diy 6637, 4" exhaust
Diy intercooled, 6.0 fan, Diy 140v Idm, Isspro Ev gauges
On board air, E-fuel, 6" lift on 35's
322000 miles
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post #7 of 13 Old 02-10-2014, 08:02 AM
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I do have a 6.0 fan. Looking at 1Dieselman's mods list compared to mine the big difference is he has injectors and DP tunes. I am running stock injectors with no tune. Maybe that is the reason I run hotter then he does.

1997 Crew Cab Long Bed 4X4 (DRW Conversion) Auto. 280K miles
Stainless Irate Bellowed Up Pipes
Fresh Turbo with 1.0 Housing & Wicked Wheel II, 3" downpipe with 4" exhaust, Intercooled, 6.0 Fan, 39 gal rear fuel tank + 70 gal Transfer Flow in the bed, Hydroboost, Completely New Suspension (Springs, Shocks, Bushings),08 Rear Diff Cover, Baby Swamps, Hydra Chip with Swamps Tunes, and Swamps IDM, Dually Swap, Tru-Trac locker in the rear, Red Head Steering Box and Borgeson Steering Shaft

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post #8 of 13 Old 02-10-2014, 08:07 AM
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I give you credit for towing that much without tunes. I don't know what I would do without tunes, it's nice going from a regular tow tune to a heavy tow tune when I need it.

Mine stayed just fine on the temp when towing around 8k. But then i'm not towing a load like you guys.
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post #9 of 13 Old 02-10-2014, 08:16 AM
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It does take a long time to get to where I am going

Stage 2 injectors and DP tunes come next month. Just before RV season. I can't wait.

1997 Crew Cab Long Bed 4X4 (DRW Conversion) Auto. 280K miles
Stainless Irate Bellowed Up Pipes
Fresh Turbo with 1.0 Housing & Wicked Wheel II, 3" downpipe with 4" exhaust, Intercooled, 6.0 Fan, 39 gal rear fuel tank + 70 gal Transfer Flow in the bed, Hydroboost, Completely New Suspension (Springs, Shocks, Bushings),08 Rear Diff Cover, Baby Swamps, Hydra Chip with Swamps Tunes, and Swamps IDM, Dually Swap, Tru-Trac locker in the rear, Red Head Steering Box and Borgeson Steering Shaft

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post #10 of 13 Old 02-10-2014, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChallengerRV View Post
I do have a 6.0 fan. Looking at 1Dieselman's mods list compared to mine the big difference is he has injectors and DP tunes. I am running stock injectors with no tune. Maybe that is the reason I run hotter then he does.
It's got to be tough towing with no tune's. Keep in mind that more fuel creates more internal heat.

Jack
97 F250 Xlt, built E4od, D60 swap, Baby swamps, tunes by Dp
1.0 housing w/ wwII, 203* t-stat, diy 6637, 4" exhaust
Diy intercooled, 6.0 fan, Diy 140v Idm, Isspro Ev gauges
On board air, E-fuel, 6" lift on 35's
322000 miles
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