96 PSD 4x4 left turn wobble - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

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post #1 of 15 Old 10-20-2008, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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96 PSD 4x4 left turn wobble

Tonight I was making a sharp Left Handed U turn in a parking lot and felt a wobble in my right front tire. About every 5-10 feet or so. So I tried a Right Handed U turn real slow and felt one wobble. Tried the Left handed U turn again with the same results. There were no noises as in scraping or metal on metal, just this strange wobble. Driving straight she rolls fine. I don't notice any play in the steering wheel.

I popped it in 4wd hi and drove straight forward, then backwards, thinking that a vacuum or something may have dropped it into 4wd for some reason. After putting it back int 2wd it did the same thing. I did not attempt the U turns in 4wd.

Any ideas?
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post #2 of 15 Old 10-20-2008, 06:14 PM
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are you sure the hubs are unlocking , its possible to have one side hanging in 4x4 causinga similiar symptom

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post #3 of 15 Old 10-20-2008, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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How can i check that? These are autolocking hubs with no manual lock?
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post #4 of 15 Old 10-21-2008, 05:38 AM
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on a 96 model never seen auto lock on a 96 , anyway , jack up front end and have someone look while you spin the wheel, see if that axle is turning

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post #5 of 15 Old 10-21-2008, 07:47 AM Thread Starter
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I will check that tonight. But while I was looking through previous posts, there was a thread talking about locking the hubs and actually engaging the 4wd. Some guys leave their manual hubs locked through winter. So my question is, if I do have a hub locked (which I suspect is true) do I REALLY need to fix/replace it? I understand the effect on tire wear and/or mileage, but other than that what other damage could it cause if I leave them as they are?

Thanks again!!
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post #6 of 15 Old 10-21-2008, 12:26 PM
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96 came with auto locking hubs. I changed mine to manual locking hubs. I did, and still have a rumbling/ vibration while slow turning, backing strait and while turning. It feels like it is in 4wd. It is noticable most often after the truck is warmed up and I have driven for a while. My tires have a off camber /\ to them. I think this my problem.
Anytime I think I might need 4wd. If there is snow, even patches or if I am driving dirt roads I leave the hubs locked in. All other time I leaving them unlocked.

96 F250 7.3l 4x4
3" down pipe/ 4" exhaust/ 6" tip
cat removed, afe air intake
Mag-Tec trans & diff. covers
All Amsoil fluids/ dual filter with bypass
Autometer piller gauges
Dana 60/ 3" sky Shackle reversal/ Bilstine shocks
skyjacker springs, Air bags
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post #7 of 15 Old 10-21-2008, 12:29 PM
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im thinkin wrong you are right , just the push button on the dash , i thought about that after i posted, but you can still lock them in manually , they were as bad as the super duties for getting hung too

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post #8 of 15 Old 10-21-2008, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, so to summarize the experts who have replied, and those from other threads, here are my understandings and intentions:

1) I believe that my auto locking hub is stuck in the locked position. I will verify tonight.

2) From researching a different thread, I need to back up at least 15 feet for an auto lock hub to be released. I am going to try that first.

3) If it does not unlock, supposedly it is OK to drive on pavement at highway speeds with locked hubs as long as I am not in 4hi or 4lo. (per bigcountrysg on another post)

4) Therefore, if #3 is true, I really do not have to "repair" my issue.

5) If I DO move forward with fixing this problem, I would install manual hubs. From calling autoparts stores, I am told I need a conversion kit since my truck has auto locking hubs. Anyone done this conversion on their trucks? If so, do you have any hints/recommendations?

Thanks to all for your help!!!!!
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post #9 of 15 Old 10-21-2008, 01:40 PM
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I did this conversion on my 96. I used the Warn premimun hubs. You need a thin wall socket that fits inside the hub to remove the factory nut. A punch and hammer might work. You will need a spanner/ hub socket to install the conversion kit. (Thrust washer, nut, lock washer, and jam nut.) put the new hub in, install washer and retaining clip( a good pair of pliers/ spreaders for the clip) and install cap. I am doing this by memory so I might of missed something, but it is easy.
I really wouldn't be too conserned about changeing your hubs out unless they are defective or you are like me and just have to change something.

96 F250 7.3l 4x4
3" down pipe/ 4" exhaust/ 6" tip
cat removed, afe air intake
Mag-Tec trans & diff. covers
All Amsoil fluids/ dual filter with bypass
Autometer piller gauges
Dana 60/ 3" sky Shackle reversal/ Bilstine shocks
skyjacker springs, Air bags
203 thermostate, 1500 watt block heater
Banks Intercooler
360 turbo bebuild, 1" housing, WW2, Below up pipes, EBPV delete
Baby Swamp injectors / TS 6 pos. Chip
http://photobucket.com/jessiah
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post #10 of 15 Old 10-21-2008, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Looking into which hubs to buy, I am being asked whether I have the standard suspension or the heavy duty suspension. How can I tell?
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