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Old 01-31-2014, 03:44 AM
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Buying a used 7.3

Hey guys new to the forum going to lock down a purchase of a 1997 F-250 heavyduty super cab xlt. The truck has 371k miles which isn't an obscene amount for a diesel but its getting up there. Just wondering what I should look for when I see it? ill be crawling under it and checking for leaks etc was wondering if some people on here with more experience then me might have a few more suggestions or places I might not think to check for leaks. Little info the truck has been converted from dual mass flywheel to single about 4k miles ago and clutch was replaced at that time as well. New ts 6 position tuner chip, slave cylinder, rotors. throw out bearing. All that from the ford dealer minus the tuner chip. body is descent on it my only concern is the 371k miles. Thanks for any help you can give me.
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Old 01-31-2014, 04:17 AM
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Make sure the motor is COLD when you see it start for the first time.
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Old 01-31-2014, 04:29 AM
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That was one of the first things I requested he sent me a video of him cold starting it, no block heater, in about 40 degree or so weather. It cranked for about 10 seconds then fired and sounded great no rattles or odd sounds. I know there are gonna be skeptics about whether he actually cold started it or not but from talking to this guy and how he's been to me so far i believe it was an actual cold start.
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Old 01-31-2014, 04:32 AM
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On top of what syndicated said, check up pipes at the collector especially with that many miles. A set of bellowed up pipes for the OBS is 7-800 I believe from RiffraffDiesel plus 3-400 labor if you can't do it. It has a TS chip but does it have gauges? If not get some if you plan to run a chip. Either way I say pull it off and get your own tunes put on it. Even if he knows what tunes are on it. Bought my truck with a DP and he "knew" what tunes it had. Long story short, had to call Jody at DP for an issue I had that ended up not being tune related but in the process found out the previous owner had the chip tuned for W85 fuel not diesel. (not Jody's fault) Turbo pedestal oil leaks aren't uncommon and oil is usually running down side of transmission. Make sure the valley is clean without diesel and oil in it. Ask if he is ok with you pulling the air tube off the turbo and take a look at the compressor wheel and make sure it isn't dusted. Check air filter and fuel filter to get an idea of maintenance. Good luck with purchase.

Last edited by strokin-7.3; 01-31-2014 at 04:40 AM.
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Old 01-31-2014, 04:44 AM
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Thanks adding the air tube to my list of checks. the chip he is using is this TS Performance 7.3L Powerstroke Switchable Chip (6 Position) | BlackSmokeIndustries.com so no confusion on that. Oh and yes it has an extra set of gauges below dash with gauges are: boost, Oil pressure(not hooked up) and i beliebe engine temp. Pipes at the collector? could you explain that a bit more sorry am very new to diesels plus my last 2 cars have both been older then 1986 so I'm used to simple gas mechanical engines lol
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Old 01-31-2014, 04:55 AM
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Check blow by as well thats a big deal killer right there, while the engine is hot take the oil fill cap off and flip it over and set it over the hole. If it gets blown off id say walk away, if it just slowly rattles off from the engine vibrating its a pretty good indicator(not a scientific test but gives you a good idea if the cylinders are worn bad or not)

Is it automatic?? Ask if its been replaced becuase at 300K+ thats pretty far past an E4ODs life span. If it hasnt id make sure to prepare for a tranny replacement/rebuild in the near future.

Short of bad compression or a bad tranny nothing else would really scare me from a good looking low rust truck. But thats just me.
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Old 01-31-2014, 05:08 AM
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The third gauge is probably the EGT's or exhaust gas temp's not engine temps. Look at it again to be sure. And if it is EGT's make sure the probe is before the turbo or your readings will vary greatly. The up pipes connect at the exhaust manifold and run up the backside of the engine and into a Y collector that than attaches to the turbo. The stock donut style gasket eventually leaks. The bellowed up pipes are pretty much the standard fix for most people because it eliminates the donut style gasket. What you'll be looking for is soot on the up pipeat the collector and any soot on the firewalls. up pipe leak - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums -Look at the second picture in this thread and it clearly shows soot on the up pipe. It won't be this easy looking from the engine bay so I suggest a flex head type mechanics/dentist mirror and a flashlight. You might also hear an exhaust tick if its leaking bad enough.
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Old 01-31-2014, 05:08 AM
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Sorry meant to mention its 5 speed manual, they guy had the tranny dropped when he replaced clutch an flywheel and was planning on replacing anything the trany might need but he said it was in good shape so he didnt have to. According to him no noises while shifting or sitting still. and okay will do the oil cap check as well thanks.
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Old 01-31-2014, 05:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rammstein1224 View Post
Check blow by as well thats a big deal killer right there, while the engine is hot take the oil fill cap off and flip it over and set it over the hole. If it gets blown off id say walk away, if it just slowly rattles off from the engine vibrating its a pretty good indicator(not a scientific test but gives you a good idea if the cylinders are worn bad or not)

Is it automatic?? Ask if its been replaced becuase at 300K+ thats pretty far past an E4ODs life span. If it hasnt id make sure to prepare for a tranny replacement/rebuild in the near future.

Short of bad compression or a bad tranny nothing else would really scare me from a good looking low rust truck. But thats just me.
Good thinking on blowby and he said it had a clutch and all the goodies with it about 4k miles ago so no auto.
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Old 01-31-2014, 05:11 AM
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how major of an issue is it if the collector pipes are leaking? I'm mechanically able to fix it but will take a bit to get the cash for it so would it be a huge issue if they are leaking?
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