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Old 01-21-2014, 02:50 PM
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sold the ford

Well guys I sold my truck, my injectors started blowing white smoke and I didn't have any money left to spend on it so I went ahead and sold it. Had 260,000 on it, before I bought it the truck was used and abused, so lots of parts and money thrown at it I had none left and couldn't afford even rebuilt injectors anymore. Now I have a 2001 dodge 24 valve. I miss my truck already but atleast it's worry are off my mind. Gotta get transmission repaired in this dodge now though haha.
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Old 01-21-2014, 03:27 PM
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From one problem to the next, were the sticks bad or just needed new rings tho?
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Old 01-21-2014, 03:33 PM
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Unfortunately yep, every month it'd be in the shop for atleast a week. They needed to be completely rebuilt, orings were probably bad too but never really had blue smoke just a ton of white smoke. Trucks exhaust had a very strong diesel smell to it too. Any of you guys have any ideas on what to watch for on this dodge? I know of lift pump to look out for nut dunno what else
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Old 01-21-2014, 05:11 PM
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I had a 01 before fuel pressure is not as critical as volume when you bump the starter and let it run in a 20oz bottle should fill it in about half of lift pump cycle. Wheel bearings up front if you think you hear one start to howl fix it before you drive it much. I heard one I thought wasn't sure next day bearing rollers laying on highway getting hauled home. If it dead pedals. Check codes don't
Go by the cummins forum guys if it has a tps sensor code I would say it's the tps. I had really bad luck with info from those forums unlike the great help I get here


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Old 01-21-2014, 05:17 PM
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Ok, tomorrow I'm changing out fuel filter, when I empty it and take out old filter can I just not put in the new filter with lid off and bump starter and watch it refill? How much would it refill the housing before it quits from one bump, like halfway? And if it does less than that amount should I replace the lift pump? I read up and heard if a lift pump goes bad your ip is gonna be gone too. It's auto 2wd also if that makes a difference
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Old 01-21-2014, 05:28 PM
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On mine when I changed the filter I would change it out lid on bump starter let lift pump run full cycle and it started if the lift pump goes it can damage the ip because the fuel keeps it cool and it can fry the circuit board if you catch it right away. It won't. I had a fuel pressure gauge in mine because you can't create pressure without flow mine used to idle at 14 psi and I could get down to about 5 psi wide open full load. When it would drop to zero I would shut it down and figure out why immediately. A 2wd should eliminate wheel bearing issue. Mine was 4wd with unit bearings. I mentioned the tps before because I would have to replace mine every two years. I think it was due to the ice scraper wedged between the pedal and seat to idle up in winter, because the dealers wouldn't unlock the high idle 3 cyl cutout feature in a manual in my area other than those issues. It never left me hanging as long as I had good batteries in it I left sit not plugged in -30 outside for a week and could cycle grid heater twice and fire it up. At almost 200k and looking at some healthy repair bills ball joints clutch shocks brakes I traded for an 08 dodge. Then decided house payments were cooler than pickup payments.


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Old 01-21-2014, 05:37 PM
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Ok, so what if I changed the filter without draining fuel and it had a bad lift pump? Would the truck crank with the lift pump bad? I doubt the lift pump is bad though, I have drove it hard the last couple of days and it responds quick and rpms will shoot up on response and it can scoot. I figured with a bad lift pump it'd be more slow and feel like your lugging the engine kinda. On the fuel pressure gauge how do you install it? The truck has 223k on it and I'm basically getting it given to me if I fix the transmission and pay for new tires and any other repair needed on it that appears. Thanks for the help also, even though this trucks not a ford
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Old 01-21-2014, 05:44 PM
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My experience if the lift op were bad they start really hard because the ink pump isn't designed to pull fuel from tank. Even when I had a water issue or ice in a fuel line the thing couldn't move itself at all. If it starts good and runs strong giving it a hard driving it should be good. As far as install there is a schrader valve where the inlet connects to injection pump. Pull the core out hook line to fitting and rout up to cab. Buy a high quality gauge kit. I used a 80 isspro it was a junk setup the isolater I got never worked right took it out ran line from inj pump right to gauge worked great until the fuel wrecked the gauge. I never looked into an auto meter setup but I run auto meters on my fords now because of my bad luck with the isspro.


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Old 01-21-2014, 05:51 PM
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PHEW I was scared lift pump was a goner. I get to worrying over my trucks way too easily lol. Thanks so much for help! and the truck starts perfect every time, don't matter the weather after it sat for over a month with dead batteries and corroded terminals changed out terminals and got new batteries on first turn over it cranked right up. Truck is really impressing me on cold starts and just all around can take a beating (except for the trans) Thanks again for all the help! Installing that gauge sounds surprisingly easy, then again I could just be thinking if it is what I think it is it would be. Thanks again for the help, wouldn't of thought I'd get help on a cummins on here
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Old 01-21-2014, 05:55 PM
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I'm always willing to give useful information when I can. Brands don't matter to me everything breaks whether it's ford dodge or gm. I've spent many a hours under the hood of all three. The way I look at it owning a diesel isn't about brand loyalty as much as helping the guy that needs it. I help whenever I can because if I'm broke somewhere hopefully someone helps me


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