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post #1 of 41 Old 10-06-2008, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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New injectors

OK, i realize the are a lot of threads out there about this but there are so many pages in them its hard to find the info that I'm looking for. I'm going to be removing my injectors this weekend and sending them to Jim at rosewood to rebuild them to stage 1's. But i have a few questions before i get started.

I think i know how to get them out but was wondering when i get the valve covers off do i need to drain any thing or just remove the 4 oil plugs ? so do i need to drain the fuel bowl or any thing like that ? And once every thing is drained that needs to be i can start removing the injectors correct? If so i should start with the rear injector on the driver side and let all the fuel/oil drain into the cylinder correct? once i do that do i need to get it out of the cylinder ( I believe you do)? If so how should i do that?

Then what do i have to do after the injectors are out getting rebuilt to get the engine ready for the new injectors?

Then when I'm putting the new injectors in what do i need to do? I know you start by putting the injectors in and getting them seated and getting every thing hooked back up, but then what do i do ?


Sorry for all the questions but this is a big project and i don't want to mess it up, and thanks for all your help.

Mike:
2003 F250 CCSB 4X4, 6.0L powerstroke.
-Sinister coolant filter
-Upgraded blue spring
-5" diamond eye exhaust W/ 6" tip
-Edge CS
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post #2 of 41 Old 10-06-2008, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MacDougall View Post
OK, i realize the are a lot of threads out there about this but there are so many pages in them its hard to find the info that I'm looking for. I'm going to be removing my injectors this weekend and sending them to Jim at rosewood to rebuild them to stage 1's. But i have a few questions before i get started.

I think i know how to get them out but was wondering when i get the valve covers off do i need to drain any thing or just remove the 4 oil plugs ? so do i need to drain the fuel bowl or any thing like that ?no And once every thing is drained that needs to be i can start removing the injectors correct? If so i should start with the rear injector on the driver side and let all the fuel/oil drain into the cylinder correct? I don't think it matters i have pulled 3 sets of injectors and i just start pullin them out.once i do that do i need to get it out of the cylinder ( I believe you do)? If so how should i do that? there are a few ways you can use a hose and suck it out or what i've done is one i put all the injectors back in i remove all the glow plugs and put the valve covers back on and only put one bolt in to hold them then i hit the key a few times (about 3) to drain all the oil out but do not start the truck! if you do it this way be carefull it make a mess then i take the bolt out of each valve cover put the glow plugs back in and start reassembleing everthing. some others with more knowledge may chime in but that is how i've done it with know problems also while your there i would go ahead and change all the glow plugs if they aren't very new
Then what do i have to do after the injectors are out getting rebuilt to get the engine ready for the new injectors?

Then when I'm putting the new injectors in what do i need to do? I know you start by putting the injectors in and getting them seated and getting every thing hooked back up, but then what do i do ?


Sorry for all the questions but this is a big project and i don't want to mess it up, and thanks for all your help.
just be careful you hook everything up right

Caylon Golden24
[B]01' F-350[B] ccsb dually 4x4 BTS
S475,300/200,SRP 1.1,h11's, DI headers and a few other parts

01' F-350cclb single wheel swap 4x4 "tow hoe" 250/200's, modded h2e, SRP 1.1, headers

00' f-250scsd 695.8hp
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post #3 of 41 Old 10-07-2008, 04:17 AM
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im getting ready to buy a set of stage ones from rosewood... im just deciding on if i want stage ones or stage 2s i think im going to go with the stage 1s cause thats what i can afford i think im going to rebuild the injectors myself just to save me time cause i use my truck for work...

The new Truck
2005 F350 4x4 CC, DRW, LB, Auto
106000 miles, King Ranch Edition,
5 inch duals, sct tuner

My old Truck that I still have
1997 F-250 4x4 EC, SRW, LB, 5 Speed,
246000 miles, k&n cold air intake, 3 inchdown pipe,
5 inch daul silverline stacks, DP Tuner F5 6 position chip, Shimed FPR




October 2008 Rig Of The Month WINNER

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post #4 of 41 Old 10-07-2008, 04:20 AM
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hey MacDougall..... how do you like your bully dog chip? i had one and i hated it.. none of the settings match what it said in the book and bully dog wouldnt do nothing about it so i went out and bought me the dp tuner and that is so much better i think. i could tell a difference in performance between the two chips and both had the same horse power ratings

The new Truck
2005 F350 4x4 CC, DRW, LB, Auto
106000 miles, King Ranch Edition,
5 inch duals, sct tuner

My old Truck that I still have
1997 F-250 4x4 EC, SRW, LB, 5 Speed,
246000 miles, k&n cold air intake, 3 inchdown pipe,
5 inch daul silverline stacks, DP Tuner F5 6 position chip, Shimed FPR




October 2008 Rig Of The Month WINNER

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post #5 of 41 Old 10-07-2008, 04:55 AM
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There is a fuel plug an the back of each head. It is a square dive plug I cant remember if it is 3/8s or 1/4. You will want to take those out before removing injectors. Also you want to let everything drain good the less material alowed to enter the bores the better. I would stuff some clean non linty rags in the bores to keep them clean while they are out. If you do get material in the cylinders you will have to remove glow plugs and manualy turne engine over to pump exses out.

Dale

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post #6 of 41 Old 10-07-2008, 04:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by szyd View Post
There is a fuel plug an the back of each head. It is a square dive plug I cant remember if it is 3/8s or 1/4. You will want to take those out before removing injectors. Also you want to let everything drain good the less material alowed to enter the bores the better. I would stuff some clean non linty rags in the bores to keep them clean while they are out. If you do get material in the cylinders you will have to remove glow plugs and manualy turne engine over to pump exses out.
I am not sure on the 97 if you have this

Dale

99.5 F 350 Totaled
2000 F350 Lariate
CC
SB
4x4
4" turbo back
cold air. Zoodad
Banks big head
Wicked wheel
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all brought together by TW
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post #7 of 41 Old 10-07-2008, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Got Diesel? View Post
hey MacDougall..... how do you like your bully dog chip? i had one and i hated it.. none of the settings match what it said in the book and bully dog wouldnt do nothing about it so i went out and bought me the dp tuner and that is so much better i think. i could tell a difference in performance between the two chips and both had the same horse power ratings
Its OK, but when i send the injectors off i'm going to call up Tony and see if he can re-burn it with his tunes, Ive heard that he cant and that he can so i'm just going to call him up and find out for sure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by szyd View Post
There is a fuel plug an the back of each head. It is a square dive plug I cant remember if it is 3/8s or 1/4. You will want to take those out before removing injectors. Also you want to let everything drain good the less material alowed to enter the bores the better. I would stuff some clean non linty rags in the bores to keep them clean while they are out. If you do get material in the cylinders you will have to remove glow plugs and manualy turne engine over to pump exses out.
If some one could find out for sure if an OBS has the fuel plugs and if they have to be removed that would be great.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1badpsd View Post
just be careful you hook everything up right
Thanks for answering what you could.

Mike:
2003 F250 CCSB 4X4, 6.0L powerstroke.
-Sinister coolant filter
-Upgraded blue spring
-5" diamond eye exhaust W/ 6" tip
-Edge CS
-SCT tuner W/ vivians looney tune
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post #8 of 41 Old 10-07-2008, 08:34 AM
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I just finished doing my stage 1 injectors from JIm at DIY, check out my thread it has all the pictures of my install and removal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MacDougall View Post
OK, i realize the are a lot of threads out there about this but there are so many pages in them its hard to find the info that I'm looking for. I'm going to be removing my injectors this weekend and sending them to Jim at rosewood to rebuild them to stage 1's. But i have a few questions before i get started.

I think i know how to get them out but was wondering when i get the valve covers off do i need to drain any thing or just remove the 4 oil plugs ? so do i need to drain the fuel bowl or any thing like that ? And once every thing is drained that needs to be i can start removing the injectors correct? If so i should start with the rear injector on the driver side and let all the fuel/oil drain into the cylinder correct? once i do that do i need to get it out of the cylinder ( I believe you do)? If so how should i do that?
Drain you HPOP reservoir as well, no need to drain the fuel bowl, once you get the valve covers off and take off the UVCH and gasket, undo the oil galley plugs and give them about 30 minutes to fully drain. Then remove the rear injectors first. When you go to reinstall the injectors. Put the injectors in but keep the glow plugs out and dont hook up any wiring. Crank the engine a few times and all the oil and fuel in the cylinders will be purged through the glow plug holes. There should only be a mist coming out when it done.

Then what do i have to do after the injectors are out getting rebuilt to get the engine ready for the new injectors?
To get them ready theres really not much but getting everything removed that you did to get the injectors out, but you should get a new set of glow plugs while your doing this anyways

Then when I'm putting the new injectors in what do i need to do? I know you start by putting the injectors in and getting them seated and getting every thing hooked back up, but then what do i do ?
Get the injectors seated, out the galley plugs back in, purge the cylinders. Then hook all the wiring back up, renistall glow plugs as well and refill HPOP reservoir. Then start the engine with valve covers off to check for any problems. Took me about 25 minutes of cranking and letting the starter rest to get it going. Then let it run for a little and put the valve covers on and hook everything else back up


Sorry for all the questions but this is a big project and i don't want to mess it up, and thanks for all your help.
I asked just as many questions before I did mine so Im happy to answer other peoples questions, when you are done drive the truck lightly for a while to break in the injectors and not risk scoring the nozzles
Hope this helps

03 king ranch w/ a cummins
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post #9 of 41 Old 10-07-2008, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the information but do you have to drain the HPOP reservoir ? I'm just asking because Ive heard you have to, and heard that you don't have to. So I'm wondering if you can do it either way just depends on what you end up doing?

Mike:
2003 F250 CCSB 4X4, 6.0L powerstroke.
-Sinister coolant filter
-Upgraded blue spring
-5" diamond eye exhaust W/ 6" tip
-Edge CS
-SCT tuner W/ vivians looney tune
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post #10 of 41 Old 10-07-2008, 11:24 AM
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When I asked maintain he said to drain the reservoir so I just did it to be safe, Ive heard you have and havent, but I did it cuase I had two people of this forum tell me too so I did it to be on the safe side.

And heres the link to my install thread. All together took about 6 hours and I had never done powerstroke injectors before
My Stage 1 injector thread

03 king ranch w/ a cummins
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