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Old 01-11-2014, 09:29 PM
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Red face 97 F250

Just bought a '97 F250 XLT Extended Cab 7.3L Powerstroke 244,000K Automatic $2300

The truck has been sitting for 6 months. Pulled the intake off at the turbo and the fins looked great. Has a K&N filter on it in an open air box. Checked for blow by, but was there none.

I do have a few concerns though, I'd like to hear what you's think .......

Blows blue at start up (although black soot on snow by exhaust it sure does look blue though) until it warms up then it clears away. I'm hoping some fresh diesel fuel and some injector cleaner can clear that up.

It has a dead spot in the gas pedal that seems odd. I wanted to just idle it up to like 1,000 RPM, but as I pushed on the pedal it did nothing for like a half inch or so, then when it responded, it revved right up to about 1,700 RPM. There was no in-between.

It seemed to take a little longer to fire up than I thought it would. Seller mentioned he replaced the glow plugs on one side, but didn't get to the other side cause there was just too much in the way.

This isn't really a concern, but the seller mentioned that the cruise control didn't work. Can I use the cruise control (when repaired) to idle the truck up for warming up purposes like I can in bigger trucks (5-Tons and up)?
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Old 01-11-2014, 09:59 PM
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First, get rid of that kn, lets a lot of dust and water through when it is put under vacuum ( turbocharged diesel).

Second, a bit of smoke this time of year is perfectly normal and should not alarm you. Also, 4 gp's not working good will cause excess smoke and longer start ups.
However, If the seller replaced only 4 glow plugs, then I would be wary of what other maintenance he neglected. I would replace all 8 Glow plugs with motorcraft zd 11's, and while you are in there check the valve cover gaskets for burnt, crispy wiring, If any are suspect replace.

Be wary of Magical Injector cleaners that will net you 100 mpg and another 1,000 foot pounds of torque, many have had success with rev x, etc, I do not have an opinion.

As far as the acc. pedal, you could have a throttle postion sensor going out, others with more experience can chime in.


NO, cruise will not help with Idle. If you want a high idle, get a ts six position chip, and have a custom tune burnt for both the idle and performance. Before you get a chip though you NEED gauges. boost, egt, and trans are a must.

You can also do a diy idle control, as well as a factory option.
check all of the fuses, brake lights ( especially the third brake light) and turn signals as they all can screw the cruise up.
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Old 01-11-2014, 10:02 PM
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Also - get some fresh oil in it, oil is truly the life blood of our injectors, you will be suprised at how much better it will run. most people run shell rotella 15 40, or rotella t6 synthetic, or 10 30 IIRC, all are better than the crap that I am suspecting is in there if the po only changed 4 gps.
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Old 01-12-2014, 07:08 AM
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Smile

Thanks theforeman57, that's makes me feel a lot better about my purchase.

I've read elsewhere in here that K&N filters are not good for turbo diesels. I'll be searching around for what was stock and replacing it.

I don't think the PO was too mechanically inclined, as he mentioned the truck came with four new shocks, but he only managed to replace one before he gave up. The other three are in the backseat. Also explains why he only changed the four more easily accessible glow plugs and avoided the other four, which are also in the back seat. I'll get the brand name from the glow plugs when I pick the truck up later today and read up on them a little.

I'm not expecting a miracle when I add some injector cleaner, I doubt I'd even notice a difference, but I just want to help ensure they are working well and are clean. I'm going to use a bottle of Lucas for now, I can read up on recommended products later. Should I buy a bottle for each tank, or would putting it in just one tank suffice?

As for the accelerator pedal, I put my head down there and pressed it by hand. I could hear a click when everything kicked in, so I'm assuming something is either not set right, or is gone bad.

All the lights worked as they should, but I will take a look through all the fuses in hopes of spotting the easy fix for the cruise control. PO did mention that the wiring at the 7 pin connector for the brake controller needed re-doing, so maybe there is something there.

The gauges and any mods will come later, I need to get a couple paychecks under my belt before I can spend any more on it.

Service Intervals ........... What should they be for:

Oil & filter change
Fuel filter (and water separator filter if separate)
Rad coolant
Trans oil & filter (and external filters if equipped)
Transfer case oil
Front/Rear diff oil
Fuel treatment/injector cleaner

I'd be interested in any recommendations of brands as well. Please indicate whether you are talking in Miles or Kilometers.

Last edited by Mark68; 01-12-2014 at 07:51 AM.
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Old 01-12-2014, 09:12 AM
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Cruise control sets the VEHICLE speed, regardless of the ENGINE speed. That's how cruise control works generally.

Shocks are easy peasy on these trucks. You can do 'em with the truck on the ground. Other than possibly rusted bolts, the only challenge is compressing them to fit; I just use a ratchet strap.

Accelerator - the pedal is just a big "volume control", variable resistor. There's also a switch that closes when you come off idle, and tells the PCM to rev up. If that's not adjusted right, it will do exactly what you're experiencing.
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Old 01-12-2014, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark68 View Post
Service Intervals ........... What should they be for:

Oil & filter change - i run 5000 miles on synthetic oil (oil changes are cheap insurance and oil is very important to the HEUI system since it fires the injectors)
Fuel filter (and water separator filter if separate) -15K miles or once a year
Rad coolant - 30K miles every 3 years
Trans oil & filter (and external filters if equipped) - i don't do autos but i have heard 30K - 50K miles
Transfer case oil -100K
Front/Rear diff oil- 100K
Fuel treatment/injector cleaner - personal opinion i run either powerservice gray bottle and/or 2 stroke oil every fill up i will use the powerservice white bottle if it will be cold
my personal preferences
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Old 01-12-2014, 08:56 PM
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Thanks terryknight. I guess I'll be doing everything over the next few weeks. I've no idea of this trucks maintenance history. I can only hope the owner prior to the owner I bought it from had more sense.

I think I may have found the reason for the blue and black smoke ........ Found a Superchips 1705 MAX Micro Tuner and cable in the center console and noticed the connector screwed under the ashtray. I let my kid drive it from where I bought it to home, and he says it has some good acceleration to it. I noticed a couple times during acceleration it was puffing out black. Going to have to research this thing a bit and hopefully I can get everything back to factory. Once I get the airbox and filter replaced, the oil changed and the CPU back to normal, I'm thinking I'll notice a huge improvement.

I forgot to look at the brand name for the glowplugs, so I'll check that later. Truck is gonna sit at my parents until I can get that K&N stuff replaced.
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Old 01-13-2014, 08:39 AM
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Black puff of smoke on moderate to hard acceleration is fine. Our turbos stock have a kinda big turbine housing allowing them to run un-restricted/un-wastegated but also makes the effective turbo usefulness to 1900 rpm and above. This causes a little bit of a delay as the fuel is expecting more air than it has from cruising to passing. This is turbo lag, normal and very acceptable for trucks that live above 2000 rpm. Most of us swap the stock 1.15 housing for a 1.0 housing as a lot of us prefer to tow rather than race our trucks. This will lower the effective range of the turbo to closer to 1400 rpm but will start to limit it's upper range to closer to 3200 rpm. For us tugboats this is perfectly acceptable.

Check all parts of the exhaust for leaks (indicated by ticking and soot all over the joint). Make sure that your manifold bolts are tight into the heads. Our trucks use exhaust doughnuts at the top of the up-pipes and these do where out. Look for soot on top/center of the firewall. On the intake side loosen the 4 hose clamps to the intake boots, work them free, and push them up the intake spyder. Undo the V-Clamp from the spyder to the turbo discharge port and remove the spyder. Check the boots for "sponginess"/holes/flexibility. There should be a rubber o-ring between the spyder and turbo outlet. Most people don't realize this is missing and they loose overall boost to the unsealed leak.


Last edited by BigFuel; 01-13-2014 at 08:47 AM.
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  #9  
Old 01-13-2014, 09:07 AM
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Also.. the clicking in the pedal is normal.. the sound I believe is normal for a obs truck. Mine does it.. go to riffraff diesel and get a 6637 filter kit.. thats best way to go for a intake. More air and better filter. Thatd what most people run on a 7.3. Def get rid of tbe superchips. The way to go Is a custom ts if you want a programmer. If you change the oil change the fuel filter also.. and if you do glow plugs might as well go to like shop.cptrucks.com and get the bigger gp relay also. Will also help on hard starts

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  #10  
Old 01-13-2014, 11:50 AM
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^^^^ Click sound is the idle switch closing.

You can probably put a 6637 on the piping that came with the K&N.

GP relay - that site ^^^^ has the Stancor, one of the two preferred heavy-duty relays, but at a HIGH price. It can be had for $50-ish elsewhere. Also look for the Western Plow relay, usu. <$20.

Use the Superchips as a code/data reader if it's so capable; do NOT "tune" with it. Or any "programmer". They RE-BURN your existing PCM, and if they don't burn it back to stock properly when you want it to, it can fry your PCM. A CHIP piggy-backs onto the PCM, and has its own programming, does NOT write anything back to the PCM; even if the chip epic fails, you pull it and the PCM reverts to stock.
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