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post #1 of 9 Old 01-07-2014, 05:07 AM Thread Starter
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NO HEAT!!

Alright guys im stumped on my trucks heater problem. I have back flushed my coolant system,put a new water pump on and thermostat with new coolant and wix cool,the thermostat is opening and my heater hoses get freaking hot.I also checked my temp door and the cable seems to be working properly and the door moves. My blend door is working as well as the other actuators on the heater module.I noticed when i switch to the vent setting i hear a little pop is this normal?

1995 F250 4X4 Zf5
  • TS 6 POS Power-Struck Tunes
  • 3" Silverline Dp to Straight Pipe
  • Custom E-Fuel/Regulated Return
  • 6637 Intake
  • Stage 2 180/100's
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post #2 of 9 Old 01-07-2014, 05:15 AM
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If everything was working good before the flush then I would assume you have air in the system.

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post #3 of 9 Old 01-07-2014, 05:47 AM Thread Starter
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It did not work before the flush and all of the worki have done sorry i shoud have said so. I also let the system bleed.

1995 F250 4X4 Zf5
  • TS 6 POS Power-Struck Tunes
  • 3" Silverline Dp to Straight Pipe
  • Custom E-Fuel/Regulated Return
  • 6637 Intake
  • Stage 2 180/100's
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post #4 of 9 Old 01-07-2014, 07:38 AM
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The "pop" is the door sticking a little, they get sticky with life. Also kids like sticking pens/pencils into the middle vents and it blocks the doors from opening/closing correctly.

Looking at the motor with it up to temp. There are the two heater lines that run off the left side of the water pump up over the motor and back to the passenger firewall. Are both of those line f-ing hot with one more than the other? Also when tracing those lines make sure the previous owner didn't install a heater core ball valve. If someone did make sure that it is in the open position and confirm that the lines are equally as hot on both sides of the valve.

+ Matt - Star Tiger +
-Bean's: 160/100 (FF Injectors), 2/ 6-POS chips (TW & Beans tunes), Overboost controller, E-Fuel
-BANKs: downpipe, full exhaust, gauges, test pipes, intercooler
-Irate: T-4 kit, IC pipes, 3" Replacement Plenums, BASB Turbo
-Mag-Hytec trans. and pumpkin covers
-6637, CCV, IDM, 6.0 Fan, 49-Federal PCM swap, MAP line Mod
-370 Amp alt., 40k trans cooler, SRP1.1
-twin on-board air w/ 10 gal. tank

Re-pinning '97 Cali PCM to Federal

Last edited by BigFuel; 01-07-2014 at 07:42 AM.
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post #5 of 9 Old 01-07-2014, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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There is no shutoff valve going to the hoses and yes they both get really hot!

1995 F250 4X4 Zf5
  • TS 6 POS Power-Struck Tunes
  • 3" Silverline Dp to Straight Pipe
  • Custom E-Fuel/Regulated Return
  • 6637 Intake
  • Stage 2 180/100's
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post #6 of 9 Old 01-07-2014, 04:22 PM
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You didn't mention the blower, is it blowing hard?
Is your a/c compressor running?
Did the heat stop suddenly or get worse over time?
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post #7 of 9 Old 01-07-2014, 05:09 PM
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If both lines are hot then the core is working fine. I know you said it in the first post but all that's left is the blender door. It's cable driven where the rest of the system is vacuum driven. Pull the HVAC panel off the dash and check that both ends are attached and moving. I haven't looked on a OBS but on a Bricknose the door was somewhat accessible by dropping the glovebox. Open the heater core access panel and see if it's hot in there.

+ Matt - Star Tiger +
-Bean's: 160/100 (FF Injectors), 2/ 6-POS chips (TW & Beans tunes), Overboost controller, E-Fuel
-BANKs: downpipe, full exhaust, gauges, test pipes, intercooler
-Irate: T-4 kit, IC pipes, 3" Replacement Plenums, BASB Turbo
-Mag-Hytec trans. and pumpkin covers
-6637, CCV, IDM, 6.0 Fan, 49-Federal PCM swap, MAP line Mod
-370 Amp alt., 40k trans cooler, SRP1.1
-twin on-board air w/ 10 gal. tank

Re-pinning '97 Cali PCM to Federal

Last edited by BigFuel; 01-07-2014 at 05:12 PM.
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post #8 of 9 Old 01-08-2014, 05:49 AM Thread Starter
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Ok well my heat has never worked great since i got it i bought it in the early spring.My blower is working on all the speed settings.I am not sure if it is running? My ac works fine.I have inspected the cable already and it appears to be moving the door all of the way. I will try removing the heater core panel to see if its hot if that dont work im seriously contimplating pulling the dash and opening up the heater module and checking all of the doors.

1995 F250 4X4 Zf5
  • TS 6 POS Power-Struck Tunes
  • 3" Silverline Dp to Straight Pipe
  • Custom E-Fuel/Regulated Return
  • 6637 Intake
  • Stage 2 180/100's
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post #9 of 9 Old 01-08-2014, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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just for ****s and grins i took a temp gun to my coolant in the degas bottle after it got to operating temp and it was 52 degrees i stuck my finger in there and it was cool. I wonder if i might have a coolant flow issue? I can take my radiator cap off with my truck heated up and dont have any pressure.

1995 F250 4X4 Zf5
  • TS 6 POS Power-Struck Tunes
  • 3" Silverline Dp to Straight Pipe
  • Custom E-Fuel/Regulated Return
  • 6637 Intake
  • Stage 2 180/100's
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