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Old 11-01-2013, 03:47 PM
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95 Ford Powerstroke Misses and Dies

1995 ford powerstroke needed glow plugs but always started even when cold (down into the 20s). I replaced glow plugs, valve cover gasket and pigtails all on passangers side, started up and ran fine for a day or 2. I then got about 100 miles from home and the wait to start light came on and within 10secs the check engine light came on and the truck died. I was able to restart and it would run and die and run and die for about another half an hour then was dead. I replaced the cps (2 times) the glow plug relay and the alternator ( because it was too hot to touch if truck ran for 10-15 mins. Now if I plug it in it will start right up and seems to run ok but still will miss like once every 20 to 30 mins. If I donít plug it in over night it will not start, white smoke boils out of the exhaust and it cranks and cranks and will not start. When it turns over the tach does move but not a lot, also should be known I have yet to find anyone with the proper scanning tool to scan it but it might not matter anymore after I had both batteries disconnected. I am at a lose please advise.
p.s last time it was running I unplugged the cold air intake sensors at the air box and that made no difference. Thanks to anyone who can help

Update today it was warm outside today (high 30s low 40s) so I was thinking about it and went to try and start the truck to time how long my wait to start light would stay on and that seems to be fine, (about 30 secs) but would not start after cranking on it for 20 secs. I turned the key back to off position and noticed no smoke. So more for my own curiously then anything else I cycled the glow plugs until wts light went off and tried starting it. It cranked for at least 20secs maybe lil longer and the white smoke boiled out of the exhaust. More of my thinking led me to wonder what would happen if I cycled the glow plugs 2 or 3 times then tried to start again, so I did. It cranked and cranked then I could tell just from years of knowing this truck that it was going to start. The smoke this time was more grey then white and it did start, then it ran like it normally would in this type of weather. While truck was running I unplugged the EBPS (exhaust back pressure sensor) and it made no difference. I donít know if this is normal? So I take it for a test drive and drove it hard like 90mph for about 9 miles turn around and make it almost home and wts light comes on and it misses and almost dies at home at idle its doing it every 3to4 mins and ABS light is on??? HELP
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Old 11-01-2013, 04:42 PM
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you need to have it scanned for codes. and check your fuel pressure at the Schrader valve to see if that is part of your problem
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Old 11-01-2013, 10:20 PM
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Since hes just replaced the gp's and uvch and pigs tails, that would be the first place i'd check. Ohm out the glowplugs and double check connections. Did you only do the pass. side GPs?

Test the GPR. Use a DVOM set on DC Voltage

1. With the Key Off

2. Negative lead on the negative battery post.

3. Positive Lead on Terminal 1 in the picture. (Should read 11-13V)

4. Now Place the Positive Lead on Terminal 2. (Shouldnt Read At all)


5. Now turn the truck in the run position.

6. With the Negative lead still on the battery, Repeat steps 3 and 4.
When you place the positive lead onto Terminal 2 though, you should get a reading. (11-13V)



If you dont, your GPR is bad.


EDIT:
I re-read you post and I guess I missed the part about the truck running and dying (Its 12:30 here...)

That doesnt sound like a bad GPR (Though its a good idea to check it and it takes about 2 minutes to do so).

But, Its probably going to be a 'how many parts can you throw at this thing' until you get a quality scan tool hooked up.

Any power loss when it was running before dying? Long periods of cranking while trying to re-start? Did it shut off all of a sudden or was it sputtering/hiccuping?

Check your ICP on the drivers side head. Unplug it. Is there oil in the connectors? See if it starts. This will set off a P2285 I believe, ignore it.

If the truck starts, ICP is bad.


Take the oil fill cap off the passenger side valve cover. Take a good whiff of it. Does it smell like oil or burning plastic?
Burning plastic would point to a bad UVCH. Though these normally wouldn't cause no-starts.

Check the 'tin nut' on the back of the IPR, though I dont think this would cause no-starts. I Could be wrong.

Im just thinking out loud here.

Last edited by williameub; 11-01-2013 at 10:34 PM.
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Old 11-02-2013, 12:07 AM
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thanks for reply here is alot more info

Hi thanks for posting something new that I havenít yet tried. First off you should know I am not much a mechanic all I know is from trial and error and having owned this same truck for 15yrs. The first warning sign that anything is about to go wrong is the wait to start light kicks on. If lthis for lack of a better word coughing missing it does happens at an idle it will most of the time catch itself and keep running but not always, when it happens at least say 70mph all lights ( check engine,wait to start, ect normal start up lights come on) but theres nothing there. By that I mean I can push throttle clear to the floor and theres nothing but if I let off and then very fast put it back down to almost the floor it will catch itself again and all is fine for a few seconds. To make it home today, the last couple of miles, I had to do this many times. The truck will only do this for about a half an hour before its completely dead for I donít know how long. Now you talk about the icp ipr and this is where its going to get hard for me. If I get a better description of where the icp is I will check it but I have been looking for a picture and reading post after post on many sites and cant find it although I would love to be able to check it. The ipr i have no idea where it is or what you mean for sure unless your talking about the high pressure fuel pump?
As for finding a scanner the nearest place that says they have one is 125 miles away from me and I donít think the truck will make it there, I donít understand why its so hard to scan but have been told its because its sort of in between obd1 and 2?? No idea!
The last thing you suggested is to smell the oil, well I changed the oil as I read where old oil can cause the truck to shut down and thought I doubt it but what can it hurt, so it has new iol/filter. When I changed it it justed smelled like old oil and didnít look any different than anytime before.
To be very honest and blunt I do think there maybe a glow plug issue and thatís causing the hard start but something else has to be causing this coughing and sometimes dieing thing. Maybe a bad cps? I cant imagine how bad my luck would have to be to have 2 of them bad but who knows?
So maybe help guide me to the icp and I will check it and maybe with more info you can keep trying to help me. and do remember when plugged in it fires right up but after running for about an hour no matter what is when the real troubles seem to start. maybe engine oil temp sensor? thanks for your time!
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Old 11-02-2013, 10:55 AM
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Locating the ipr,icp, and the hpop

There ya go. Some people say that you need to make a special socket to remove the IPR if you want to leave the fuel bowl in place, but I can not help you there. Also, try to avoid buying a cps from a auto parts store, because a lot of the time they are bad out of the box, just go to ford.
As previously said, do the drivers side glow plugs and uvch, as well as pigtails, cant hurt. Same thing with these, best to buy them from ford or international, some off brands have even been know to transpose the wires going through the gasket.

I would also recommend getting this http://www.littlepowershop.com/ford-...uto-enginuity/ it is a scanner for our trucks, and is a good one. you can also get an old snap on mt 2500 " brick" but you need special keys and adapters to make it work. cheaper, but a little more complicated. Others know more about these, maybe they can chime in. getting a scanner may acutally prove cheaper than just throwing parts at it.

Last edited by theforeman57; 11-02-2013 at 11:05 AM.
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Old 11-02-2013, 05:37 PM
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gpr fail

Hi, thanks for getting back to me and sorry for the late reply but I had to wait for rain/snow storm to end or at least slow down. So I tested gpr and I believe I did it right but it failed when I had the key on negative lead of meter on battery neg. positive lead of tester on terminal 2 as in the picture and meter read zero. I did have 11.8v on all other steps where I should have until this step, so I think the gpr is junk and this might just solve the cold start trouble.
I located the icp I believe and I unplugged the wire connection and the inside of connection was clear and looked almost like new, no oil no burn marks. Ect.
I never tried to start the truck it started snowing by the time I got this far but please explain better what you want me to do about unplugging the icp and trying to start truck and what I need to look for and what certain findings may tell me?
Also I live in north west Montana, can someone recommend a mechanic that can fix my truck if I cant or just give up? When I first started reading on this site I seen a post by a man in Kalispell MT maybe he will see this or someone knows him? My only other thought is the ford dealership in Libby, does anyone have any ideas? I havenít given up on myself yet but its getting much harder because of the weather? Thanks to all
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Old 11-02-2013, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down4strokin View Post
Hi, thanks for getting back to me and sorry for the late reply but I had to wait for rain/snow storm to end or at least slow down. So I tested gpr and I believe I did it right but it failed when I had the key on negative lead of meter on battery neg. positive lead of tester on terminal 2 as in the picture and meter read zero. I did have 11.8v on all other steps where I should have until this step, so I think the gpr is junk and this might just solve the cold start trouble.
I located the icp I believe and I unplugged the wire connection and the inside of connection was clear and looked almost like new, no oil no burn marks. Ect.
I never tried to start the truck it started snowing by the time I got this far but please explain better what you want me to do about unplugging the icp and trying to start truck and what I need to look for and what certain findings may tell me?
Also I live in north west Montana, can someone recommend a mechanic that can fix my truck if I cant or just give up? When I first started reading on this site I seen a post by a man in Kalispell MT maybe he will see this or someone knows him? My only other thought is the ford dealership in Libby, does anyone have any ideas? I havenít given up on myself yet but its getting much harder because of the weather? Thanks to all
Heres a picture of the ICP.



To get your truck started with a bad GPR,

1. Turn the key onto the on position.

2. Open the hood and locate the GPR

3. Take an insulated screwdriver or pair of plyers and jump Terminal 1 to Terminal 2 and count to ten in your head.

3. Hop in the truck and turn the key to start.


To diagnose a bad ICP.

1. Open hood and located the ICP Sensor and unplug it. Tuck it where it wont get junk in the connections

2. (Since you have a bad GPR, Follow those steps to start the truck.) Hop into the truck and start.


If you were having no-starts, rough running, stalling, and unplugging the ICP seemed to fix your problems, you could bet money your ICP has failed.

I would try to get my ICP from Ford. RiffRaff and Diesel O-Rings sells genuine Ford ICPs for a decent price.



Since we are trying to diagnose two different pieces of equipment at the same time, to rule out which one was causing you problems I would do this.


Follow the steps to diagnosing the ICP First, but dont Jump the GPR.

If the truck wont start, Plug the ICP Back in. Jump the GPR and try to start the truck.

If the truck still will not start, Unplug the ICP, Jump the GPR and then start the truck.
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Old 11-02-2013, 10:05 PM
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i think it will fire right up if i plug in

hi thanks for your helpful post. through out all of this mess if i leave the truck alone and plug it in for 8-10 hours it has fired right up and tonight it is plugged in. in the morning i will first make sure it will start and then i will follow your instructions on testing the ICP thanks again to all that have helped and those who might yet!! you guys are great
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Old 11-02-2013, 10:26 PM
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Read this well and it may help you start your truck
Diagnosing a 7.3 no start
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Old 11-03-2013, 08:28 AM
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Trying to get this straight

So before I go out and mess with this again, I need to understand a little more. I've already been able to start the pickup but only after having the block heater plugged in overnight and have it run for 45 min or an hour before it misses and SOMETIMES dies. I only get a no start if the truck hasn't been plugged in (i am assumming thats the gpr). If I unplug the ICP and start the pickup up (meaning that would be what the problem is) do I need to let the pickup run for that long or should I hop in and take it down the highway to see if it has the same miss and SOMETIMES die problems that it does right now. Or will this diagnose the ICP as the problem thats causing this miss later on that only seems to occur once the truck is good and warm?
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