Dana 60 Axle Question - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 10-23-2013, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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Dana 60 Axle Question

So I'm working on gathering all the parts required for the swap from the TTB (w/ 4:10 gears) on my 97 F250 to the D60. I have located a junk yard that has 4 D60's (4:10 gears and ball joint style) in stock. He quoted me $300picked up for my choice on the complete axle, and $40 for the track bar and track bar mount. He also said that the springs would be $50 each and that would include the hardware. Now, that being said, the questions.

1) Since I feel like I'm getting a good price on the axle, would I be money ahead to replace all the componets with new ones (gears, bearings, seals)? Or, if the gears look good, is it a waste of money to change those out therefor only needing to change the bearings and seals. The reason I ask, is that I am not sure if the gears are something that will eventually wear out and ill be wishing I had done it when I bought the axle. (common sense would tell me if I'm going to change everything out, I should just buy a housing and build the axle up, but then again, I don't know if I could find even just a housing for $300)


2) My plan is to do a RSK w/ SD springs, so I will probably skip buying the F-350 springs, but still buy the drivers side u-bolt plate. It will probably take me a month or two to buy the parts for the RSK, but I feel like I will be better off waiting a couple months and doing it all at once rather than rushing into it, then having to go back and change out the springs. The question I have on this part is, will the RSK work with my Gage outlaw series full replacement bumper or are there some clearance issues that you guys know about and I'll have to cut up my bumper? If so, I think I may skip the RSK and just stick with the F350 springs. ( I know Cary will be the best one to ask, but I figured I'd talk with you guys first before bothering him with it.)


Thanks for all the help guys. Yall have an awesome site going and I'm glad to be apart of it.
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post #2 of 10 Old 10-23-2013, 08:59 AM
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I did the swap in my 96. Did u say they are laying in a yard correct? I ran through mine and replaced everything with moog parts which are lifetime guaranteed. I went a little above and beyond but it's covered if it ever goes bad. Also I highly suggest finding a king pin front end and not ball joint.mi prefer these myself but it's a personal preference. All depends on the budget you are on. If need any questions answered lmk.

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post #3 of 10 Old 10-23-2013, 09:00 AM
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Far as the front end replacement I am not sure. Iam. Getting ready to dig into that project myself....

96 7.3 F350, 4x4, 5 speed, 6 inch skyjacker lift, 35 12.50 M/T Baja Atz, custom TW 6 pos, Banks Intercooler, BDP experimental fuel system, banks double shot water meth, Chromoly Push Rods, Swamps IDM Mod, 2nd Gen Wicked Wheel, Stage II AFE cold air intake, Down Piped 5 inch Diamond Eye exhaust, Gauges, ladder bars, upgrades drives lines yokes, on board air system, triple trumpet train horns, smoked head light and taillight housings, and 55watt HID kit!!
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post #4 of 10 Old 10-23-2013, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
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This may be a dumb question but what advatages will the king pin give me over the ball joint? I'm less concerned with the cost as I am about doing it "right". I hate having to re-do anything that wasn't done right the first time.
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post #5 of 10 Old 10-23-2013, 11:49 AM
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The king pin axles are slightly stronger and usually last a little longer than the ball joint one's before needing pin/ball joint replacement. I would suggest ALL new seals, including the inner axle seals, clean and check all bearings (carrier and hub) clean and inspect carrier and gears. If all the bearings and gears look good put it all together with the proper lubricants and it should last a good long time. Also spend the extra and have the rotors turned or replaced if necessary and new brake pads. If the drag link and tie rods have been sitting out in the weather or dirt plan on replacing them also, it is money well spent. I cannot answer the question about the bumper because the D60 swaps I have done where with stock obs F350 springs or in the case of mine superlift 4" lift springs.

Jack
97 F250 Xlt, built E4od, D60 swap, Baby swamps, tunes by Dp
1.0 housing w/ wwII, 203* t-stat, diy 6637, 4" exhaust
Diy intercooled, 6.0 fan, Diy 140v Idm, Isspro Ev gauges
On board air, E-fuel, 6" lift on 35's
322000 miles

Last edited by 1Dieselman; 10-23-2013 at 11:53 AM.
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post #6 of 10 Old 10-23-2013, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info dieselman. How does yours ride with the 4" superlift? That the exact lift I was considering, but if it rides considerably rougher than the SD springs, I'll take the ride over the height. Also, I was planning on buy new tie rods, pitman arm etc. as suggested in mjonesjr's swap write up.

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post #7 of 10 Old 10-23-2013, 04:36 PM
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It rides okay. It's a truck that gets worked pretty hard sometimes so I don"t expect it to ride like a caddy. I've wheeled a lot of superduty's and no thank you, they don't do worth a darn in tough situations because the springs are to soft. With mine just the front springs are superlift, the rears are stock with factory overloads.

Jack
97 F250 Xlt, built E4od, D60 swap, Baby swamps, tunes by Dp
1.0 housing w/ wwII, 203* t-stat, diy 6637, 4" exhaust
Diy intercooled, 6.0 fan, Diy 140v Idm, Isspro Ev gauges
On board air, E-fuel, 6" lift on 35's
322000 miles

Last edited by 1Dieselman; 10-23-2013 at 04:39 PM.
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post #8 of 10 Old 10-24-2013, 09:56 AM
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For sure put new everything in the front end if u can spare it. The seals must be new and done right or u will be pullin it all out and redoing it....

96 7.3 F350, 4x4, 5 speed, 6 inch skyjacker lift, 35 12.50 M/T Baja Atz, custom TW 6 pos, Banks Intercooler, BDP experimental fuel system, banks double shot water meth, Chromoly Push Rods, Swamps IDM Mod, 2nd Gen Wicked Wheel, Stage II AFE cold air intake, Down Piped 5 inch Diamond Eye exhaust, Gauges, ladder bars, upgrades drives lines yokes, on board air system, triple trumpet train horns, smoked head light and taillight housings, and 55watt HID kit!!
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post #9 of 10 Old 10-24-2013, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trojan2004 View Post
So I'm working on gathering all the parts required for the swap from the TTB (w/ 4:10 gears) on my 97 F250 to the D60. I have located a junk yard that has 4 D60's (4:10 gears and ball joint style) in stock. He quoted me $300picked up for my choice on the complete axle, and $40 for the track bar and track bar mount. He also said that the springs would be $50 each and that would include the hardware. Now, that being said, the questions.

1) Since I feel like I'm getting a good price on the axle, would I be money ahead to replace all the componets with new ones (gears, bearings, seals)? Or, if the gears look good, is it a waste of money to change those out therefor only needing to change the bearings and seals. The reason I ask, is that I am not sure if the gears are something that will eventually wear out and ill be wishing I had done it when I bought the axle. (common sense would tell me if I'm going to change everything out, I should just buy a housing and build the axle up, but then again, I don't know if I could find even just a housing for $300)


2) My plan is to do a RSK w/ SD springs, so I will probably skip buying the F-350 springs, but still buy the drivers side u-bolt plate. It will probably take me a month or two to buy the parts for the RSK, but I feel like I will be better off waiting a couple months and doing it all at once rather than rushing into it, then having to go back and change out the springs. The question I have on this part is, will the RSK work with my Gage outlaw series full replacement bumper or are there some clearance issues that you guys know about and I'll have to cut up my bumper? If so, I think I may skip the RSK and just stick with the F350 springs. ( I know Cary will be the best one to ask, but I figured I'd talk with you guys first before bothering him with it.)


Thanks for all the help guys. Yall have an awesome site going and I'm glad to be apart of it.

That is a good deal. I would get a 95-97 axle so you can retain your calipers and bigger rotors.

Check the axle over GOOD. Replace what needs replacing. Defiantly change all the seals. If money isn not super tight, I would go ahead and replace all 4 ball joints with XRF ones, steering linkage and Spicier U-joints

Looking for Blue 40-20-40 seats. PM me !!!!!!!
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post #10 of 10 Old 10-25-2013, 06:05 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice Brad. I will take your advice and replace those parts while I'm at it. I'm sure it will pay off in the future.
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