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post #1 of 10 Old 10-01-2013, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
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In dash volt meter tweaking?

Sunday i installed a new GPR, well i bought the starter relay and wired it accordingly to work the same as the GPR but 1/3 the price. but now my volt meter is showing on the left side of the normal approximately on the "N" and then moves torwards the "RM" area when the engine speed increases. the truck has a brand new alternator and 3 yr old batteries. has no loss in battery power or cranking issues. unfortunately i do not have access to a hand held volt meter . any suggestions are apprecitated.
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"Kleetus" 1996 Ford Power Stroke Auto, Tymar Intake, 4" Exhaust, Upgraded Torque Converter, Boost, Pyro, Tranny Gauge, TS 6 pos with TW Tunes, BB Mod, Tint

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post #2 of 10 Old 10-01-2013, 12:45 PM
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A starter relay WILL NOT WORK as a GP relay, for two reasons:
1) It is NOT rated for continuous closed duty. The GPR needs to energize the glow plugs for up to two minutes at a time. A starter relay is rated to be closed for only 30 or so seconds at a time
2) Its coil circuit is grounded through its mounting base. The GPR coil circuit is switched on and off by the PCM through the ground side of the circuit. If you mount the relay, it will always be energized while the key is in the RUN position.

Suggestions:
* Get a relay made for the purpose. You can get a Western Plow relay with an isolated ground and (reportedly) rated for continuous duty for $15-ish, or a Stancor / White-Rodgers 586-902 for $50-ish. A lot of controversy about which is better or more worth the money, but either one will be more appropriate than any starter relay adaptation
* Get a volt meter. They're $10-ish at Harbor Freight, occasionally going on sale for $5. Except for the small fuses and bulbs, that's less than the cost of any one electrical component on our trucks. Pays for itself the first time it's used to determine that something _doesn't_ need replacing.
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post #3 of 10 Old 10-01-2013, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madpogue View Post
A starter relay WILL NOT WORK as a GP relay, for two reasons:
1) It is NOT rated for continuous closed duty. The GPR needs to energize the glow plugs for up to two minutes at a time. A starter relay is rated to be closed for only 30 or so seconds at a time
2) Its coil circuit is grounded through its mounting base. The GPR coil circuit is switched on and off by the PCM through the ground side of the circuit. If you mount the relay, it will always be energized while the key is in the RUN position.

Suggestions:
* Get a relay made for the purpose. You can get a Western Plow relay with an isolated ground and (reportedly) rated for continuous duty for $15-ish, or a Stancor / White-Rodgers 586-902 for $50-ish. A lot of controversy about which is better or more worth the money, but either one will be more appropriate than any starter relay adaptation
* Get a volt meter. They're $10-ish at Harbor Freight, occasionally going on sale for $5. Except for the small fuses and bulbs, that's less than the cost of any one electrical component on our trucks. Pays for itself the first time it's used to determine that something _doesn't_ need replacing.
Yes sir agree 100%. I did the Western Plow(aka Trombetta) Relay and it works just as good as the stock relay if not better (wintertime will tell). But hopefully you didnt screw up your GPs by running constant voltage through them. How long did you have the relay installed because that will be how long they were on because the hot side is hot as long as the batteries are connected

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post #4 of 10 Old 10-01-2013, 02:54 PM
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I did new gp's and relay and my volt gauge is around "N" and after a couple minutes it goes to the RM or so. It's just your gpr actually working and drawing the current to keep them glowing. But I am having issues with my gauge randomly going to "N" while driving so I got a wiring problem I need to trace down.
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post #5 of 10 Old 10-01-2013, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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yep definitely messed up on that deal there sorry guys, luckily i caught the problem on the gauge and unhooked the relay before it could cause damage, i got the right GPR this time and wired it up, truck started right up and volt gauge is back to how it normally acts and tested the glow plugs and they seem to be ok, guess i almost learned the hard way. rookie mistake. thanks for the feedback

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post #6 of 10 Old 10-01-2013, 03:42 PM
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That sure is good looking truck and the whole photo is not too shabby either.

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post #7 of 10 Old 10-01-2013, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Arcturus View Post
That sure is good looking truck and the whole photo is not too shabby either.
Thank you sir i sure do appreciate it

"Kleetus" 1996 Ford Power Stroke Auto, Tymar Intake, 4" Exhaust, Upgraded Torque Converter, Boost, Pyro, Tranny Gauge, TS 6 pos with TW Tunes, BB Mod, Tint

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post #8 of 10 Old 10-02-2013, 07:38 AM
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Is it swinging back and forth? If so you have bad glow plugs.

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post #9 of 10 Old 10-02-2013, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superduty4x4 View Post
Is it swinging back and forth? If so you have bad glow plugs.
Good to know this.
I had a couple of bad glow plugs on the passenger side and since I replaced them all, I don't have the GPR pulling in every few seconds after startup...
Learned something today!

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post #10 of 10 Old 10-02-2013, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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no its acting normal now just holds a little after start up then right to where it belongs

"Kleetus" 1996 Ford Power Stroke Auto, Tymar Intake, 4" Exhaust, Upgraded Torque Converter, Boost, Pyro, Tranny Gauge, TS 6 pos with TW Tunes, BB Mod, Tint

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