How to get rear main seal off - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 09-15-2013, 04:17 AM Thread Starter
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How to get rear main seal off

Having a little trouble trying to get rear main seal and back plate off motor. I put motor on stand before I pulled it off so making it a little more difficult to see exactly what is going on. I figured I would ask here before I end up with a bunch of bent up sheet metal parts.
It looks like it is 2 pieces, the back plate and the holder. Should they both just slide right over the back of the crank to come off? Or do they need to be separated first ? Need to get this thing off so I can get block out to machine shop.

Also looking for new lifters. Anyone know where to get a quality set of those? Thanks- Tom
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post #2 of 10 Old 09-16-2013, 05:36 AM
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I take off the rear main seal off first then the sheet metal plate behind it. When you buy a new rear main from ford it will come with enough international rtv to reseal the plate and rear main. Be carefull pulling off the plate because you don't want to bend it, pry it off slowly. Next you have to remove the wear ring on the end of the crank. I'm sure theres a fancy puller to do this but I have never used one. If you take a hammer and chisel and hit the wear ring in several places it should come right off. I've had a couple that have been difficult that I have used a small sharp chisel to cut it off.

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post #3 of 10 Old 09-16-2013, 05:50 AM
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^^^What he said. I just did this not to long ago. Remove bolts and just be careful. The chisel works great but don't hit the crank

-Tyler

1994.5
Efuel, Valair 500hp, D60, Hydra w/PHP tunes


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post #4 of 10 Old 09-16-2013, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replys, it sounds too easy I must be missing something.....
Does the crank have a spacer on the end? I mean where the flywheel bolts go through. It looks like that part of the crank will prevent the seal and/or holder from coming off.

The plate was easy to separate from the motor, Im having trouble with the holder. I removed all the 5/16 bolts and tried tapping a screwdriver between the backplate and the seal holder but it doesn't seem like it wants to come apart.
I can go back and try hitting it harder with the screwdriver but but I was already starting to disfigure the seal holder a bit so I left it until I got some answers here.
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post #5 of 10 Old 09-17-2013, 03:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tjmiller View Post
Thanks for the replys, it sounds too easy I must be missing something.....
Does the crank have a spacer on the end? I mean where the flywheel bolts go through. It looks like that part of the crank will prevent the seal and/or holder from coming off.

The plate was easy to separate from the motor, Im having trouble with the holder. I removed all the 5/16 bolts and tried tapping a screwdriver between the backplate and the seal holder but it doesn't seem like it wants to come apart.
I can go back and try hitting it harder with the screwdriver but but I was already starting to disfigure the seal holder a bit so I left it until I got some answers here.
If its and auto then I think there is a spacer. I don't remember mine having one. The back plate that you are having trouble with is also connected to the oil pan with a thicker bead of silicon. Is your oil pan off? If not I would start by taking a flat head and prying at the bottom

-Tyler

1994.5
Efuel, Valair 500hp, D60, Hydra w/PHP tunes


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post #6 of 10 Old 09-17-2013, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSDTV21 View Post
If its and auto then I think there is a spacer. I don't remember mine having one. The back plate that you are having trouble with is also connected to the oil pan with a thicker bead of silicon. Is your oil pan off? If not I would start by taking a flat head and prying at the bottom
It is an auto. The motor is completely disassembled on a stand, oil pan is off. The piece that I think looks like a spacer is about 1" thick, its on the rear of the crank and is NOT threaded. It also has one roll pin in it, Im guessing to keep it keyed. If that is a spacer than I will have to put the motor on the bench and try to use a puller on it.
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post #7 of 10 Old 09-17-2013, 02:08 PM
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That would be the end of the crank. I was referring to a 1/8 inch thick plate.


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-Tyler

1994.5
Efuel, Valair 500hp, D60, Hydra w/PHP tunes



Last edited by PSDTV21; 09-17-2013 at 06:38 PM.
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post #8 of 10 Old 09-25-2013, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSDTV21 View Post
That would be the end of the crank. I was referring to a 1/8 inch thick plate.


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No... It is a spacer about 1 inch thick. Don't know how you could miss that if you did a rear main seal.
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post #9 of 10 Old 09-25-2013, 06:14 PM
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Please post a picture then.


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-Tyler

1994.5
Efuel, Valair 500hp, D60, Hydra w/PHP tunes


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post #10 of 10 Old 09-26-2013, 06:59 AM
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TJ, here are two pictures, before and after of my engine when I did my rear seal. The seal I used came with a new wear ring as you can see in the picture. The existing ring does not come off, the new one is presses on over it. I used the inch thick flywheel spacer (auto trans) and flywheel bolts to press on the new ring. A coating of red locktite as a seal between the two rings. Went on very nicely. After 3k mi, no leaks. Hope this helps and good luck.
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