Adding another fuel filter / Water separator? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 09-10-2013, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Adding another fuel filter / Water separator?

My 96 E-350 Van has a 7.3. The lever that is suppose to open the water separator drain valve is missing. Opening that, and changing the fuel filter is a real pain.
I'm thinking of putting a Racor diesel fuel filter followed by an electric lift pump in the feed line. Access to the filter element would be easy and I would not have to change the filter in the valley as often.
Anybody see any down sides?
Also, I want the new pump to be ignition key activated.
Can anyone tell me which wire to the ignition switch (color) would work?
Thanks in advance.
Dick
BTW, I love my 7.3!
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post #2 of 7 Old 09-10-2013, 05:33 PM
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You can change your fuel filter without draining the bowl. Just take it out and put it back in verrrry slowly.

You didn't mention how many miles on your motor. If the orings and the short blue fuel lines are original it may be time to rebuild the bowl and change those fuel lines. The drain valve more than likely broke because the orings are froze up in there and someone tred to force it open.

There are good directions on dieselorings.com and a total rebuild may cost you $150 or less in parts also available there.

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post #3 of 7 Old 09-10-2013, 06:27 PM
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If your going e fuel just get rid of the stock bowl and filter

-Kris-
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post #4 of 7 Old 09-11-2013, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tartansailor View Post
My 96 E-350 Van has a 7.3. The lever that is suppose to open the water separator drain valve is missing. Opening that, and changing the fuel filter is a real pain.
I'm thinking of putting a Racor diesel fuel filter followed by an electric lift pump in the feed line. Access to the filter element would be easy and I would not have to change the filter in the valley as often.
Anybody see any down sides?
Also, I want the new pump to be ignition key activated.
Can anyone tell me which wire to the ignition switch (color) would work?
Thanks in advance.
Dick
BTW, I love my 7.3!
I do this a lot, misunderstand the question. Sorry about that I think it just ADHD, Dyxlexia or something.

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DIY 6637, Hpx, E4OD
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post #5 of 7 Old 09-11-2013, 02:28 PM
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a link to some different ways to do e fuel.

Electric Fuel on OBS Trucks

the stock filter will not hold up to the pressure of an electric pump

94.5 F250 Reg Cab 4x4 5 speed 4.10 276000 plus miles

97 F350 Crew Cab LB 4x4 5 speed 3.55 320000 plus miles (parts truck)



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post #6 of 7 Old 09-14-2013, 09:57 AM
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I put additional fuel filters on the frame rails of my F250, along with an auxiliary fuel pump. This gives added protection to the injectors by helping assure the fuel is free of sediment and water. It certainly reduces the need for changing the engine-mounted fuel filter very often as that filter has virtually nothing to do anymore except act as something of a last resort...in fact, I now change it only because it should not be allowed to get excessively old (ie, maybe every five years or 50K miles or whatever seems right).

My particular approach was to install the following using diesel-rated fuel hose after the tank selection valve: first a 10 micron water separator/sediment filter, then an auxiliary fuel pump providing about 4 psi, then a 3 micron sediment filter, then plumb the hose onto the metal fuel tube going to the engine, which I had cut to install the setup.

As far as the 12-volt connection, I used a device to utilize one of the key-activated fuse ports in the cab. I forgot the name of the little fuse-box insert to do this, but it's available at the local auto parts places. It is comprised of a bladed plug that goes where the original fuse went into the fuse box, and it holds two fuses: one is the fuse for the original purpose, and the second is for the auxiliary pump. It makes splicing into the key-activated wire unnecessary.
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post #7 of 7 Old 09-16-2013, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstreamer67 View Post
I put additional fuel filters on the frame rails of my F250, along with an auxiliary fuel pump. This gives added protection to the injectors by helping assure the fuel is free of sediment and water. It certainly reduces the need for changing the engine-mounted fuel filter very often as that filter has virtually nothing to do anymore except act as something of a last resort...in fact, I now change it only because it should not be allowed to get excessively old (ie, maybe every five years or 50K miles or whatever seems right).

My particular approach was to install the following using diesel-rated fuel hose after the tank selection valve: first a 10 micron water separator/sediment filter, then an auxiliary fuel pump providing about 4 psi, then a 3 micron sediment filter, then plumb the hose onto the metal fuel tube going to the engine, which I had cut to install the setup.

As far as the 12-volt connection, I used a device to utilize one of the key-activated fuse ports in the cab. I forgot the name of the little fuse-box insert to do this, but it's available at the local auto parts places. It is comprised of a bladed plug that goes where the original fuse went into the fuse box, and it holds two fuses: one is the fuse for the original purpose, and the second is for the auxiliary pump. It makes splicing into the key-activated wire unnecessary.
Bingo!
Sincere thanks.
BTW, I have a 31' International.
Dick
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