Electric fuel system conversion - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Here ya go bud

 

The rubber feed line from the selector is clamped onto the factory steel line on the frame rail. Its 5/16" hose i believe. You need a 3 micron post fuel pump filteration of some kind to protect the injectors.

I did my system very basic and used fittings and hose the local autoparts store had in stock.

Starting from the tank selector forward. I clamped the rubber feed line from the selector too the vacuum(suction) side of the electric fuel pump (super-duty Bosch unit). Then i ran 3/8" fuel rated hose too an Aluminum filter base with a 3 micron spin on unit from Napa. Only costs me 18.20$ to replace the filter. Then from the filter base i ran 3/8" hose and double clamped it onto the factory steel line that feeds up into the engine valley.


Now too the engine valley. After I got rid of the leaky fuel bowl and crappy fuel pump. And all the plumbing nonsense in the valley. I plugged the hole were the pump was with a 7/8" frost plug. (note when your taking the fuel pump out be very carefull too not drop the plunger on the bottom of the pump into the motor. Because if you do the motor has to come out of the truck.)

Anyways when I got the valley all nice and cleaned up I clamped 3/8" hose on to the steel feed line in the valley then ran it too a T-block (t pipe works too.) Then i ran 1/4" hose from the block too each side of the rear cylinder heads and clamped it onto what was left of the factory steel line. Then i got a fuel-lab pressure regulator (adjustable) and using JIC fittings i adapted the factory fuel hoses coming from the front of the cylinder heads to it. Then i ran a 5/16" fuel hose from the return side of the regulator and clamped it onto the factory steel return line. And thats it.

Then i wired up a 30 amp relay etc.

I hope that helps a little bit. :rofl:

 

here's another link with some different ways of doing it

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/7-3-mod-help/218702-electric-fuel-obs-trucks.html

 

Ok i picked up a SD pump last night and seems to work good, and i have the filters/bases, fuel heater, fpr on order and will hopefully be here by this weekend. So all i need now is the freeze plug and the various fittings and hoses ill order from mcmaster-carr. How do i go about wiring the pump? Do i just have it wired to the ignition so it runs continuously or does it have to only be on certain times?

 

Mine is straight to the ignition coil (+) on the right fender and uses a oil pressure switch (-) above the oil filter. When there is oil pressure the switch collapses and the pumps come on. Summer starting here in So. Cal. I don't worry about starting the engine with minimal prime (system holds 40PSI, more or less, for a couple days). In the winter I have a momentary switch that shorts the oil pressure switch that I just hold the button for 2 seconds and fire it up.

 

Is the oil pressure switch necessary? is there a reason i cant just have the pump run full time when the ignition is on because the fpr sends the excess back to the tank correct or am im totally wrong?

 

Not a bad question. I do this to protect my family and what is left of my truck: In an good accident the motor is usually involved. This set-up kills the fuel delivery as soon as the motor stops turning to keep from feeding the probable fire a consumable source.

 

Ahh ok so your using an oil switch rather than an inertia switch. I wasnt sure if there was a performance reason or what. Would i have any problems with low fuel pressure at high throttle or WOT(i.e. highway driving or merging) or will that SD pump feed just fine without a fuel bowl?

 

I didn't look back, this is for your OBS (going to bowl-less) correct? The injectors in your OBS are tiny compared to your SD. The SD pump will have to die to not supply enough fuel. I'm running a Bosch 044 pump. These pumps are built similarly and are interchangeable. The SD pumps are cheaper and have a proven reliability (in factory form, not aftermarket), the Bosch is a step up in flow but if I have a failure out of town I can still install a stocker to get me home.

On the inertia switch, be very sure what the switch is designed to do. A lot of people talk omni-directional inertia switches (without saying it) but actually install uni-directional switches. A switch that is only designed to go one direction can miss detecting a hit from another direction. Thus the pumps might not be canceled in the hit. A pressure switch is dirt cheap and at the very worst fails open. Solved by simply jumping it with alligator clips to ground to get you to the parts shop for another $5 switch. I've had my set-up for 4 years and 0 issues so far.

 

I didnt think the SD pump would have a problem considering my 2000 never had a problem but it also has a fuel bowl. but yes im getting rid of that pos fuel bowl its been nothing but problems. As for the switch i may look into the omnidirectional one because id rather not do the switch in the cab for winter since winters in iowa can be brutal.

Here is a complete, pre-cut, harness for the swap and if you include the Controller the truck will self prime before start-up:

OBS Fuel Pump Harness

Whats the advantage of this rather than just doing key on application or does this just do that except shuts off after a certain fuel psi?

 

Here is a complete, pre-cut, harness for the swap and if you include the Controller the truck will self prime before start-up:

OBS Fuel Pump Harness

 

Can anyone shed some light on where all the fuel line go to? Also what do i do with the wiring around the fuel bowl when i delete it? and what about the heater im installing do i just use the existing wire that the fuel bowl heater uses or do i have to wire it separately and how long does the heater run? Continuously?

 

Tank->selector->coarse filter->pump->fine filter->valley->T or Y-Block->in rear of heads->out front of heads->V-8 Pressure Reg set to whomever does your tunes (TW is now 70PSI)->return to selector valve

The wiring some people go through the process of opening the main harness and cutting it all out. I cut the ends, cleaned the wires for an inch, applied liquid electrical tape, and shrink wrapped each wire to keep water form shorting things. What heaters are you using? What do they draw? The only reason that I would independently wire them instead of making them work off the stock system is that depending on how much they draw it can burn out your Fuse 22 which also supplies your PCM.

These could be wired to your waterpump on a "set temp" thermal switch in the accessory port next to the upper water neck. Once the engine is at operating temp it is returning a portion of very hot fuel back to the tanks and you wont need the heaters anymore.

Semi Fuel Filter heaters:

 

Wow that helps a whole bunch man thanks:thumb: finding the path of fuel in that spaghetti pile was racking my brain because i have never done anything with a fuel system before.

As for heaters im using these Fuel Filter Heater Diesel WVO Waste Oil Fuel Heater Fuel Filter Heater | eBay It says it draws 75 watts which i tried to find what the stock heater draws and couldnt come up with an answer.

Also i thought about wiring up the oil pressure switch like you talked about but instead of a bypass switch in the cab what about using the (+) side of the glow plug relay to trigger a relay that primes the system before you crank? Any negative to doing this since the relay is only on when you have the KOEO correct?

One more question will i have any problems if i have 2 fine filters(both with water separators) rather than one course and one fine?

Sorry for all the questions i just want to get my truck up and running as soon as i get my parts rather than trying to figure it out as i go. Just ask Kris you will get tired of me and my curiosity:hehe:

 

Nothing wrong with wiring a relay to the GPR. I just don't live where it gets "cold" so I don't pay it much mind. Truck starts just fine without prepriming down to mid 30* for me.

When I say coarse filters please consider that this is still 30 microns as in coarse. 30 microns is less than 6 red blood cells end to end or 1/3 of the diameter of an average human hair. You need two levels of separation as the pump cares a lot less about crap going through it then the injectors BUT a fine filter before the pump would more likely cause cavitation as the pump tries to suck through it. The 30 micron / 5 or 2 micron arrangement is industry standard for long haul trucking and if it is good for a $500,000 semi that needs to serve you forever then it's good for us with our itty bitty trucks (well, your SD might not fit the "itty bitty" formula ).

That 75W ought to work but this one has a heating element 3x bigger (6" x 11" vs 4" x 5"), 125W more heat, and is $14 more. Just say'en:

VWO Fuel Heaters

Kris and I have spoken already :hehe:

 

Hmm well the ones i got were 2 of these Baldwin BF1259 Fuel Filter: FleetFilter Secure Online Store is that going to be a problem?

As for the cold it gets down well below 0 here so i definitely want to preprime.

Ill see how the one i got holds up to the cold come winter time if i have a problem ill look into that one.

Oh yea what did he have to say??? "dont give him your phone number":hehe:

 

You'll be ok. Next filter change I would still recommend the bigger filter pre pump. On the heater, what suites you is fine with me. It's still your truck and only you know and can understand you current budget/needs/wants. You asked a question and I just answered it the way I would do it, that's all.

Naw, Kris was calling me when your truck stalled at the red light just looking for a second opinion. Your a good guy.

 

I went ahead and got a 3 micron post filter just to be safe and will send one back.

I wasnt trying to deny your heater choice, if i had found it before i ordered the one i got i would have gotten that one but i kinda want to try to get it done asap so i ordered what i thought i needed after doing some research now im just waiting for parts to get started.

Yea that day was not fun it was like 95° with 80% humidity and had to walk 2 miles back to my other truck go get a cps (at autozone:doh because ford was closed and did a side of the road cps change and still wouldnt fire so i had to tow it home with my 5'3" gf driving the dually without power steering or power brakes because i had to drive the white truck

 

We are square bud. No worries here.

Got pictures of her trying to get into your SD? I love those little ladies getting into gigantic trucks shots.

 

Haha nah she would kick my a$$ if i took a picture of her doing that but she puts one foot on the step and then grabs the door handle and jumps/pulls herself up to the grab handle. Shes actually quite good at it except when she wears the tight pants and skirts:hehe:

 

Hey could anyone tell me which fuel line along the frame is the return line and which is the pump line?

 

easiest thing to do is trace them, i can't remember off hand

 

There are four ports on one side/end of the Pollak switch and two on the other side on the same end. Of the two ports there is one big port and one smaller port. The big port is to the engine and the smaller is the return.

 

Thanks alot man for all your help:thumb: how did you connect your hoses to your metal tubes?

 

When you start working in the valley you will notice that you have a lot of steel line to work with. I have this b!tchen flaring tool that leaves perfect little groves around the tube when you tighten down on the tube. I did that for a couple inches of the tube (first clean and dry the steel line), dry fit the hoses of length, when I was set for final install of the system I shoved the hoses on with 3 worm clamps, found the depth that they would stop on the tube, pulled it back a 1/2" (still 1 1/2" from the end of the tube inside the hose) added gasket maker to the tube and pushed the last 1/2" hose back over the tube and tightened the worm clamps on the hose (one on the hose where the tube inside ends, one at the other end where the gasket maker is, and one in the middle. Hope that the fuel doesn't get to the gasket maker but it's there just in case. If the GM starts to get spongy then the fuel is getting past the first and second worm clamp. Fix the issue.).

 

Haha i dont think a flaring tool has ever been referred to as b!tching before:hehe: but yea i looked for some flaring tools but they were out of the budget especially after all the money ive spent on this e-fuel already so i was just gonna try to deform the end of the tube with something and use 2 worm clamps on them. i may try putting gasket maker like you did

1 quick question, I'm also trying tomunderstand how the fuel system works. Bigfuel your pics and diagram helped me a lot . So my question is, these have a regulated return? Or is it regulated before fuel goes to the heads

It took me a while to understand it too but Matt helped alot with the pictures and actually getting into the engine and underneath helps. My understanding is the stock system goes

the tank>
tank selector>
over the front of the engine>
right side nozzle on pump>
out the left side nozzle on pump>
in the fuel bowl>
down tho bottom of the fuel bowl into the bottom nozzle of the pump>
out the back of the pump through the banjo bolt>
to the back of the heads>
injectors>
unused fuel out the front of the heads>
2 hoses in front of the fpr>
out the back of the fpr>
down the front of the engine>
along the frame back to the tank selector>
the tank

Return, look back to the pic with the gauge and that is the regulator after the heads and before the return to tank. Dead heading is a flaw in the SDs. Pat this system works well in your white truck too.

No question is a dumb question, if you have them post them up.

So your saying i could delete the fuel bowl basically the same way in my SD?

 

1 quick question, I'm also trying tomunderstand how the fuel system works. Bigfuel your pics and diagram helped me a lot . So my question is, these have a regulated return? Or is it regulated before fuel goes to the heads

 

Return, look back to the pic with the gauge and that is the regulator after the heads and before the return to tank. Dead heading is a flaw in the SDs. Pat this system works well in your white truck too.

No question is a dumb question, if you have them post them up.

 

Random question is there any reason the filters cant be mounted horizontally other than real estate so that they dont stick out as far below the frame?

 

Well i got it started last night i did a couple things while i was waiting for the batteries to charge up but one of the things i tried was pulling the plug off the pcm and reconnecting it and i honestly think it was that:doh: oh well i got an e-fuel conversion out of it and it seems to run alot better with it. I just gotta get one of the lines going into the back of the heads to seal all the way so im gonna go pick up some gasket sealer on Matt's recommendation. Thanks for everyone that helped me out:thumb: its good to here the truck run again

 

What filters and pump did you use?

 

I got a stock super duty truck pump from the junkyard. Right now im using 2 of these Baldwin BF1259 Fuel Filter: FleetFilter Secure Online Store but im gonna switch the post pump to this Wix 33005 & Napa 3005 Fuel Filter: FleetFilter Secure Online Store under Matts recommendation

 

Ok but what bases are you using?

 

Wix 24770 & Napa 4770 Base: FleetFilter Secure Online Store

 

Subbed

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App