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Old 06-28-2013, 08:28 PM
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rear main seal help

I'm ready to install my engine after oil pan replacement. I want to also replace the rear main seal while I'm into it. however the new seal fits loosly but also comes with a metal ring. do I need to do more dissassembly to install the new metal ring (race) , or do I have the wrong seal. Clarification appreciated, see pics
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Old 06-29-2013, 01:13 AM
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That is the right seal. You need a special driver to put that steel ring on. If the dealer has one they will let you borrow it usually. Its called a speedy sleeve. Its basically the new mating surface for the new seal. Since most of our trucks have a lot of miles the old seal will actually wear a little ring into the crankshaft.

BTW, how was it pulling the motor just to put s new oil pan on. Mine is leaking pretty good back by the starter but just not sure if I really want to do it.
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Old 06-29-2013, 03:30 AM
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Thanks. So the new sleave fits over the existing? It appears the speedy sleave would fit over the existing surface. I wonder if i could install it with a block of wood and tap it on?

I'm sure others would tell you to check a few things before you pull the engine. Check for oil in the vally, check the oil rail plug, and that last bolt on the oilpan closest to the starter.
Pulling the engine wasn't terrible, it came right out. I removed everything in front of the engine, radiator, radiator support, etc. I did this for a couple reasons, first, my hoist would never have lifted it that high, second... I needed to fight all the rust in there. I used a two ton hoist and two ton engine stand from HF. Removing all the stuff up front was time consuming. Engine itself was straight forward.
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Old 06-29-2013, 03:45 AM
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Yes. Speedy sleeve should fit right over. Well it will be a little bit of a press fit so it won't spin on the crank. A block of wood might not work since its pretty thin. Heat it up a bit but not hot enough to where it will change color (blue or gold). About 3-400F. No more than that.

I know all the normal spots for oil leaks. I pulled the flywheel inspection cover and can watch it drip right by the starter when running. Its just enough to not really ever have to change the oil but enough to annoy me. Lol. How long did it take you to pull the motor?

I guess once you have the core support out there really isn't much holding the engine in. TC, down pipe, motor mounts, a few wires.

Nice work BTW.

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Old 06-29-2013, 04:30 AM
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I appreciate the advice, thanks. I'm going to give it a shot using the heat.

It probably took me 14 or so hours to remove the front. I also took out the battery platforms to make it easier. Keep in mind that it was pretty rusty, I tried to save what I could but it faught me the whole way. Between the wrench, the grinder and the tourch, I got it appart. The engine itself took half a day by the time I disconnected everything. The transmission bolts up top required a little trickery but not bad. It came right out, turbo and all. There were some good intructions on this site.
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Old 06-29-2013, 11:00 AM
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Just to finish this thread, I used the flex plate spacer to press on the bushing and it worked like a charm. I also used red loctite as a lube and extra seal.
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Old 06-29-2013, 11:32 AM
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