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  #1  
Old 06-03-2013, 09:16 AM
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turbo leak?

'95 F250 PSD.

at 199,000 I was pulling the car trailer (24' Pace enclosed, around 7000 LB loaded) and when I got home, I found oil all over everything. The trailer, under the truck, etc. Found HPOP leaking. Replaced with a rebuilt unit. That fixed that leak but then the turbo pedestal was leaking. Removed the pedestal, replaced the pedestal with a NON-EBP pedestal, also disassembled and rebuilt the turbo with a Garrett genuine CHRA rebuild kit. At the same time I replaced all of the pedestal O-rings. Been fine for about 1000 miles. Today I am coming home and smell oil. Got in and found this. Oil all over the back of the turbo, block, bellhousing. Also fuel leaking from somewhere, I am thinking one of the hoses at the filter housing. I think I read somewhere where a sensor on the back of the filter housing can sometimes leak...but I can't find that info.

I don't know what to do to fix this oil leak once and for all? HELP??!!
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  #2  
Old 06-05-2013, 06:54 AM
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Looks cracked. All I can recommend is Ron's turbo service in Utah. Mine was cracked too. I just did it this Sunday. It cracks right on the back bolt on the underside. turbo leak?-imageuploadedbyag-free1370444052.578926.jpg


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Old 06-06-2013, 04:45 PM
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I believe mine has suffered the same fate.
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Old 06-06-2013, 05:05 PM
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Oh damn! Shatty deal.

I smell a turbo upgrade.
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Old 06-06-2013, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaius View Post
Oh damn! Shatty deal.

I smell a turbo upgrade.


I don't really see a need to upgrade. The motor is bone stock as is the rest of the truck. I just want it reliable and NO LEAKS.
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Old 06-06-2013, 05:22 PM
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Yep, if you don't need more power. I'm sure you could get a stock replacement fairly cheap. Good luck!
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Old 06-13-2013, 08:37 AM
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Ron charges 480 for a stock one.
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:14 AM
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Fixed. Got a bearing housing and swapped everything into the new housing. The new housing is a little beefier in that area. $135 total cost plus my time for R&R'ing the turbocharger.

Now then....it runs fine and drives fine. But we pull a big load with it once in a blue moon (say, 8000 lb total trailer weight). When accelerating, the trans shifts from 1st to 2nd and immediately locks the converter. When the shift/lock is complete the engine is then down to about 1500 RPM from around 3000. No boost, no power, wait about 30 seconds and then it'll shift again into 3rd, then drops out of boost again. With the 3.55 gear it pretty much SUCKS. Is there a shift strategy built into an aftermarket tuner that would help with this issue? I actually could use a 3.73 or even a 4.10 rear end but I have what I have...and until I can afford/find one and swap it, I'll have to deal with the trans shift strategy somehow. With the 3.55 gear unloaded it knocks out 23 mpg which is nice. Well more specifically 22.721 the last time I checked. But it don't pull worth squat!
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Old 06-15-2013, 11:05 AM
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Your cheapest solution would be to find a 10.25 with 4.10 gearing and swap rear ends. You can find them for around $200 sometimes vs almost $1000 potentially for a re-gear.


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Old 06-23-2013, 12:13 PM
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That's why I when're with a touch smaller housing. Mine starts building boost at only 1200 rpm. Way better off. Have you chipped your truck? Because that will help with shifts. They firm up the shift points making a big difference.


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