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Old 04-29-2013, 07:47 AM
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Having glow plug problems

It takes a fair amount of cranking to get it to start but once it starts it runs great. I replaced the glow plug solenoid and that didnt do anything for me. What's the next item to check? I dont feel like putting new plugs in it if I dont have to but I will if need be.
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:02 AM
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You can check the glow plugs themselves without removing the valve cover by pulling the valve cover gasket electrical connector on each side. The female connector on the gasket will have male pins protruding. Use a multimeter, find a good ground on the block, and check continuity on the two outermost pins on each side of the connector (there should be nine pins total if my memory serves)... so you'd be checking pins 1, 2, 8, and 9, respectively. Once you've verified continuity to ground through each glow plug, check each one for its actual resistance value. Anything more than a few ohms should be suspect.
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:14 AM
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It seems to me that having all 8 go at one time is odd? It doesnt stumble or anything when it starts.
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:20 AM
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^^^^^ That's a SuperDuty connector. OBS are different. There are two connectors on each side, total of four. Each connector goes to two cylinders, for both injectors and glow plugs. On each connector, the outermost pins connect to the glow plugs. So for example, the front connector on the passenger side goes to #1 and #3. Resistance should be aprx. 1.0 ohms; IIRC, the acceptable range is 0.5-2.0 ohms.

The glow plugs ground through their base threaded into the cylinder head. All you can really check is the resistance.

Edit - you can have starting problems with just two or three failed glow plugs.
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:27 AM
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You replaced the solenoid. Assuming that everything is wired up properly and the solenoid is behaving as it should, the only two things that can go wrong would be the plugs themselves, or the electrical connection between the two.

You say that it doesn't start until after a bit of cranking. How are your batteries and starter? I noticed a HUGE difference in how the ol' girl jumps to life after my starter went bad and I replaced it along with my 4+ year old lackluster batteries with some new interstates. The ECM won't fire the injectors until a certain rotational speed of the crank is attained. This could be worth looking into.
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:36 AM
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Batteries and starter are right on the money...spins it over plenty fast. It spins it over just as fast as before I started having issues. So checking the ohms is my next place to go on the first and last pins of each connector? What are the specs for the voltage drop across the solenoid posts when the plugs are lit?
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:43 AM
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If you can wait until later today, I might be able to get to my friend's shop to pull up a wiring diagram on alldata.
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wishIhada5.0 View Post
What are the specs for the voltage drop across the solenoid posts when the plugs are lit?
0.3V; anything more than that, and the relay is suspect.
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:07 AM
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Having same problem. 1995 power stroke just bought truck a couple weeks ago and replaced gpc and put meter on it good. But still will not crank after it sets for more than 4/5 hours unless you plug in block heater and we are having 50 degree morns and 70 degree eves could it be just glow plugs or could the guy I bought it from have it adicted to ether don't know if he ever used it on truck. SORRY to jump in on you thread but sounds like my problem also thanks
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekfinn View Post
If you can wait until later today, I might be able to get to my friend's shop to pull up a wiring diagram on alldata.
That would be great!

Quote:
Originally Posted by madpogue View Post
0.3V; anything more than that, and the relay is suspect.
Should I be seeing this drop across the big posts or small posts?
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