Looking around to use Ford parts they are in the neighborhood of $120 each but there is a lot of metal and machining that make these things. There are different opinions on how to do it and only offer my opinion as advice and not the word from Yoda (Bill
1: Disassembly is pretty straight forward. Needle nose pliers for the cotter pin remove, correct socket (I want to say it's a 1 1/16" but I don't remember) and spin out spindle nut, pry out keyed washer, pry out outer bearing. With a quick tug pull on hub straight out (****ers heavy). IF
you are planning to reuse anything then let stand on a piece of cardboard studs down. Pry out wiper seal and inner bearing. Clean inside of hub.
2: Otherwise, new hub pointing studs down wipe just a little bit of grease to coat the race, install inner bearing, take the wiper seal and around the friction edge where it mates to the hub wipe the smallest amount of gasket maker (like just enough to know it's there amount) and using a large enough socket or a piece of cut level wood tap the seal into the hub with the wiper facing the inside of the hub. Tap evenly or you can damage the seal.
3: Once it is seated take heavy grease and wipe the rubber part of the seal so it is nice and coated.
4: Turn back to the Spindle and wipe and clean all the old crap off of it. ID where the wiper seal rides on the spindle and apply a barely thin coat of grease to that surface. Carefully install the hub to the spindle.
5: Install the outer bearing. Install keyed washer and spindle nut. Spin the nut on until it stops.
6: Install tire with two nuts across from one another or three in a triangle. Just tight enough to keep the tire from wobbling.
7: Now the tricky part, with the correct socket on a breaker bar spin the wheel in the forward direction with a good pull. As the wheel is spinning bear hard into the spindle nut, the wheel should come to a sharp halt if you've done this right. DO NOT SPIN THE WHEEL AGAIN UNTIL FINISHED!!!
Back the spindle nut off one whole turn. With your hand spin the nut back towards the bearing, stop when you have to use force to spin the nut further.
8: With the socket add a 1/8th turn more and install the cotter pin through the castle nut. If the tangs on the castle nut (aka spindle nut) don't line up with the hole back it off
until it does.
9: Install cap.
Repeat other side and DONE!