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Fuel filter housing removal, 97 and older:
To gain access to the HP oil pump, replace Injection Pressure Regulator valve or lift pump, or to service the filter housing, sometimes it's easiest to get the housing off of the engine. Removal is not that difficult except for the hoses.
Remove the intake Y-pipe and plug the openings into the heads. Open the water seperator drain to minimize the amount of fuel dumping into the engine valley. Loosen the hose clamps on the return line at the pressure regulator block, the primary (upper) lift pump hose at the filter housing, and the secondary (lower) lift pump hose at the lift pump. Remove the two head return lines at the pressure regulator block. Disconnect the harness connector at the RH side of the filter housing. Remove the two mounting bolts at the rear of the housing base. Lift up on the LH side of the housing to disengage the return line; pivot the housing forward to disengage the primary pump hose; pivot the housing back to disengage the secondary hose; and turn the housing clockwise to disengage the drain hose. Disconnect the IPR valve wire and remove the housing from the vehicle. Any o-rings or sensors on the housing can be serviced, and removal of the pressure regulator block for service/cleaning can now be done(the regulator can be removed with the housing installed on the vehicle, but with risk of o-ring damage on reassembly). Reverse the procedure for installation, taking care not to damage the hoses when their nipples are inserted in each. Do not over tighten the hose clamps or they will strip.
Lift pump removal:
This service is not difficult when working on a Federal-emissions F-series. The intake Y-pipe and fuel filter housing need to be removed first. Then, using an 1 1/4" box wrench (having two different wrenches works best because of differing angles on the box ends give you a wider working range) or socket on a flex-head ratchet, loosen the bango bolt fitting at the rear of the pump. Take care not to drop or damage the steel sealing washers. After removing the bango bolt, remove the pump mounting bolts and lift the pump straight out of its hole. If the pump seems stuck, use a rolling-head type pry bar (lady-slipper, duck bill, crowsfoot) to pry it up straight. Pulling staight up will prevent the pump push rod from catching and falling back down into the engine requiring engine removal to retrieve the rod. On California-emission vehicles the bango fitting is too far under the turbo and fuel line damper to reach with a wrench and access is restricted for using a socket (you may get the bolt out, but good luck getting the it back in). In this case and with the Econoline due to its body design, it is necessary to remove the turbocharger to remove the lift pump instead of the fuel filter housing. In all cases, when instaling the new lift pump, lube the o-ring on the pump shank with dielectric grease and start the bango bolt a couple of threads before installing a tightening the mounting bolts. Again, take care not to damage the sealing washers. Once the pump is secured to the block, tighten the bango bolt to 40 ft/lbs.
97 F350 CREW CAB 4x4, 7.3 TURBO DIESEL, DIY INTAKE , TW TUNES
GRAND ROCK POWERFLOW STACK KIT W/5" MITRES
3.55 REARS, 3" DOWNPIPE, FPR SHIMMED WITH GAUGE