I would like to thank Cary at CT Performance for helping me with this swap and to Patrick Feeley for helping make some corrections to the pinning. [EDIT: Confirmed this works for manuals too. Also, this swap is looking like it is only working to go to DPC-202 code Federal PCMs LKM/MIF/NAW/PRE/PRY/TDE/TEE/ZAA are all DPC-202 code PCMs]
Ok, for some of us with the '97 split shot trucks we know how hard it can be to find replacement PCMs and how some tuners have said that they will either not tune for the '97 Cali with singles or the tunes are too limited and you want more out of the singles that you have installed. This swap is for you as the freedom of this swap will run any size singles in your '97 Cali with or without a chip. So here we go:
The goal is to go from this to this:
Here are all the tools needed for the swap:
1. 7/64 drill bit (note the elec. tape near the tip and over the flutes. This is to keep the bit from side biting into the other nearby wires and to help with depth control), 2. 10mm deep socket and 1/4" drive ratchet, 3. 1/2" deep socket and 3/8" drive ratchet, 4. thin pin tool (or flathead screwdriver for glasses), 5. straight Pick
The pins that are moving (these pin movements are good movements for a '97 2WD AUTO Cali PCM code MME2 to a '96 Federal AUTO PCM code NAW4 (any). This does not account for 4x4s and Manual trans trucks as I don't have one to try this on. I have confirmed these movements to be good as I have been driving on this swap for several days now at the time of this posting):
Pin 11 to pin 1 (drill)
Pin 5 to pin 4 (let it hang for the moment)
Pin 10 to pin 5
Pin 4 to pin 10
Pin 6 to pin 27 (drill)
Pin 54 to pin 28 (drill)
Pin 88 to pin 34 (tape off pin 34 as it is not used on the '96 Federal)
Pin 21 to pin 47 (drill)
Pin 19 to pin 50 (drill)
Pin 20 to pin 53 (drill)
Pin 80 to pin 70 (drill)
Pin 12 to pin 79 (drill)
Pin 70 to pin 80 (drill)
Pin 63 to pin 84 (drill)
Also remove and tape off pins 8 and 9 as they are also not needed with the '96 Federal PCM. These wires, along with 34, are used to monitor the GPR in the '97 Cali's but the older PCMs do not monitor this. Tape them off in case you want them for later.
With the 104 harness connector removed from the PCM start by removing the dark grey plastic shield off the wire side of the connector. Then flip it over and pry up this red retention plate from the middle of the plate using either the pin tool or the pick (green arrow). Sometimes these snap retainers (white arrows) hold the plate on but not in my case. Just use the pin tool to lift the plate in conjunction with the pick to upset the snap retainer. This indexing cap does not need to be removed for this swap (red arrow).
The grey cap left undisturbed from the last step has the pin locations stamped into it. This is where you will look and count over from for pin locations.
Now to get to the meat of the swap, these are the pin retainers (red circle). Using the thin pin tool place the flat edge against the pin to be removed and hold it at 5-10* off the pin. As you slide the tool down the pin, and with a tiniest amount of pressure you will feel the tool go between the pin retainer and pin. Rotate the tools handle to be parallel with the direction of the pin and this will further lift the retainer off the pin. Holding all this with one hand insert the pick into the top of the pin and gently push into the connector.
When done correctly the pin will look like this:
This is the pin out of the connector and note how the retention clip grabs the pins "shoulder" (green arrow).
So now you have the #11 pin out and you need to get it into the #1 pin hole. Carefully drill through the back indexing cover (you just need to get through the cover, do not ream the drill bit all the way in as it can cut off the tooth that holds the pin into place) and insert the pin into place. Continue with the rest of the pins and with the connector back together it'll look something like this. Note the loose taped wires and I marked them with their original pin locations.
Moving to the PCM (and written for those that have not removed the PCM before) remove the upper and lower 10mm nuts and remove the PCM retainer/weather shield. Some people suggest dropping the wheel well to get the PCM out but I'm too lazy for that and I just shove a long bar into the well straight down. Vuala', PCM slides out. Note the indexing that the PCM came out and install the '96 PCM back in in the same direction. Otherwize you will have a tough time getting the harness connector back on the PCM (red arrows point to harness indexes). With the PCM out before installation, now is a good time to clean the contacts for a chip. Lightly sweep the contacts on BOTH sides of the board with an emery cloth and wipe with alcohol. PCM goes in like it came out.
For those that have asked "how do I run the wire from the chip to the selector knob" this is what I have done. Remove the three 1/2" nuts that retain the parking brake to the inner-fender, install 4 (12 total) 7/16" (I think) washers per nut onto the studs. This gives you plenty of room for the wire to pass by the Parking brake pedal without pinching the wire at all.
All told this swap took 3 hours but I was taking pictures during and sometimes having to go back and pull it apart to get a better picture. Cary suggests 1.5 hours for completion. I hope this helps our Cali members out there to move from our limited PCMs to the much easier to find and better performing '96 PCMs.