Torque Specs on pinion nut 97' F-250 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 03-30-2013, 12:12 PM
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Torque Specs on pinion nut 97' F-250

Hey ya, Im changing out the pinion seal on my 97 f-250 rear end. What is the torque spec on that nut? not finding anything real conclusive.
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Old 03-30-2013, 04:55 PM
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All I ever do when changing the seal, is center punch the pinion and the nut.
Then remove nut and count how many revolutions it takes to come off.

The change seal

Then put nut back on same amount of revolutions and go 1/8 turn more. have done this for the past 20 years with no issues

Last edited by Diesel_brad; 03-31-2013 at 03:53 AM.
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:04 AM
m j m j is offline
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there is no torque spec.
from the factory they use a crush sleeve, so you crush it until the bearing preload is in spec.
carrier has to be out to check the pinion bearing preload with an inch/lb dial torque wrench.
guys will fudge it in but these axles have issues with the crush sleeve so its best to fix it properly

IMO to do it properly you pull the carrier and use a crush sleeve eliminator.
once it is setup with a spacer rather then a crush sleeve you can pound the pinion on with an impact and not worry about it.
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m j View Post
there is no torque spec.
from the factory they use a crush sleeve, so you crush it until the bearing preload is in spec.
carrier has to be out to check the pinion bearing preload with an inch/lb dial torque wrench.
guys will fudge it in but these axles have issues with the crush sleeve so its best to fix it properly

IMO to do it properly you pull the carrier and use a crush sleeve eliminator.
once it is setup with a spacer rather then a crush sleeve you can pound the pinion on with an impact and not worry about it.
This is what I will do. My truck is down for a flat bed, bumper, running board build/instal and other goodies anyway. Thanks for the input fellas.
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Old 03-31-2013, 09:45 AM
m j m j is offline
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pull it apart with enough time to see what is damaged.
on mine the crush sleeve was loose and allowed the slinger and shims to be worn.
I was installing a locker so thankfully had a master install kit on hand.

Crush sleeve eliminator kit for Ford 9" - SK CSF9-2PIECE

that is the one I used, the pic does not match the part. the part is far nicer.
you have to file it a bit to clear the radius of the pinion so it seats flush. 5 mins with a rounded file
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Old 03-31-2013, 07:16 PM
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I've got one that the previous owner changed the seal, and then just "tightened it as much as he could" but didn't mark the nut to make sure he replaced the nut in the original location. And now I again need to change the seal so am basically starting blind.

This has me a bit puzzled....

Quote:
Originally Posted by m j View Post
there is no torque spec.
from the factory they use a crush sleeve, so you crush it until the bearing preload is in spec.
carrier has to be out to check the pinion bearing preload with an inch/lb dial torque wrench.
guys will fudge it in but these axles have issues with the crush sleeve so its best to fix it properly

IMO to do it properly you pull the carrier and use a crush sleeve eliminator.
once it is setup with a spacer rather then a crush sleeve you can pound the pinion on with an impact and not worry about it.
Replace the crush sleeve with an eliminator? This requires some shim checking and swapping? Is this a left to right ring gear shimming (which is likely not a do-it-yourselfer project) or a pinion shim? This seems to be more work but less technical....
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:32 PM
m j m j is offline
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depends
if all your shims on the pinion now are in perfect shape then the only thing you will be changing is the crush sleeve which does not locate the pinion.
(that wasnt the case with mine)
to do that you have to guess at a starting eliminator shim thickness (measure the crush sleeve and use that as a starting point), install pinion, use the in/lb dial torque wrench to see how much force it takes to turn the pinion, if it is 17-35 "lb all is good, if not either add or subtract a shim and test again.
pinion depth is set by shims under the pinion head that you shouldnt have to change.
in my case the crush sleeve had become loose and the shim stack that should never see any wear was worn out so I had to start from scratch, not a big deal as I was installing a Grizzly locker anyway and had the master install kit in hand.

for backlash the sterlings use big machined spacers outside of the carrier bearings from the factory, if all you are doing is the pinion you should not have to mess with them, just make sure you mark them so you can put them back on the same side you took them out.
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Old 04-01-2013, 04:03 AM
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mj, thanks!

Are the crush sleeve, sleeve eliminator and shims replaced from the nut end of the pinion or does the pinion need to be removed from the housing for each change?

This may address my first concern too, but the carrier is to be removed while testing for the 17-35 inch pounds to rotate, correct? I think removing the carrier for this test is often overlooked giving false torque readings.

Just how much torque will the pinion nut need? I'll be wrestling this in my driveway. Will an impact hammer do the job?

Last edited by leojr; 04-01-2013 at 03:59 PM. Reason: spelun
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:22 AM
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The pinion need to be removed in order to pun in a crush sleeve or sleeve eliminator
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Old 04-02-2013, 05:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m j View Post
IMO to do it properly you pull the carrier and use a crush sleeve eliminator.
once it is setup with a spacer rather then a crush sleeve you can pound the pinion on with an impact and not worry about it.
Once the eliminator is in place, and with the correct shims to provide the proper rotating torque value, the pinion nut just gets tightened, how tight has little affect on the rotating torque value? This seems like a little extra work now and will pay off later when the next seal has to be replaced.
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