OK to cut cab mount? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 02-19-2013, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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OK to cut cab mount?

Any problem with cutting the cab mount bolts holding the radiator support? I'm removing the front of the truck to make engine removal easier and to bust some rust at the same time. Not sure I need to wrestle them out at this stage of the game. Need new bolts any way due to rust. Thanks
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post #2 of 8 Old 02-19-2013, 08:01 PM
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I don't have an answer for you although I see no reason not to cut them. Are you worried about alignment issues? something moving when you cut the bolts?

Mostly I'm curious why you are pulling the engine.

Good luck!!




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post #3 of 8 Old 02-19-2013, 08:06 PM
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Re: OK to cut cab mount?

I had to cut mine when I fixed my truck after a wreck keep in mind ford no longer sells that rubber mount I used a couple rubber hockey pucks worked great.

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post #4 of 8 Old 02-19-2013, 09:34 PM
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Cut it, replace with poly urathane ones when you put it back together

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Well at least you caught the loose bolts before they cause any damage. Nothing worse than a sloppy hole
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post #5 of 8 Old 02-20-2013, 01:23 AM
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Mine are good on rad support but need to replace the rest im dreading the job anyone bought the bushings and put together their own hardware kit with the bolts washers and sleeves? And micko go ahead and cut them they seem to be the least of your worries if motor is coming out

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post #6 of 8 Old 02-20-2013, 02:53 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks. I plan on using the urathane replacements.
Csdwarf11, I'm removing the engine for lots of reasons. It leaks oil, oil pan does not appear to be leaking yet but it is pretty rusty. The exhaust manifolds are very rusty, not leaking but it won't be long. Up pipe bolts are toothpicks. I'm sure there is something else. Oh yes, main seals and motor mounts just for fun. I have the chance to get into it now so I want to address all potential issues.
also wondering if I should replace Gp harness under the valve cover, maybe injector o rings too? Anything thats easy to do once the engine is out... Or easier to do with engine out.
This truck has 70k on it but did plow during NH winters, so I need to get a handle on the rust.
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post #7 of 8 Old 02-20-2013, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Micko View Post
Thanks. I plan on using the urathane replacements.
Csdwarf11, I'm removing the engine for lots of reasons. It leaks oil, oil pan does not appear to be leaking yet but it is pretty rusty. The exhaust manifolds are very rusty, not leaking but it won't be long. Up pipe bolts are toothpicks. I'm sure there is something else. Oh yes, main seals and motor mounts just for fun. I have the chance to get into it now so I want to address all potential issues.
also wondering if I should replace Gp harness under the valve cover, maybe injector o rings too? Anything thats easy to do once the engine is out... Or easier to do with engine out.
This truck has 70k on it but did plow during NH winters, so I need to get a handle on the rust.
I wouldn't think anything under the valve cover would be THAT much easier with the engine out. There really isn't anything in the way with it installed in the truck. Id freshen up the oil cooler, not sure if you can do that on the truck, if you can it looks like it would be a huge pain.

Im curious how many hours it takes to pull one of these engines, is it a pain? or do they pretty much slide right out? Pull the front clip ect obv.




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post #8 of 8 Old 02-20-2013, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
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Oil cooler, good advice.
I know someone with the tools and knowlege can remove the engine in a few hours without removing the front of the truck like I am.
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