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post #1 of 22 Old 02-08-2013, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Oil bypass valve spring?

As the title says the spring in the oil filter housing, is this an oil filter bypass valve?

Reason i ask is i am an oil change away from getting a wreaked truck back on the road and running after 5 years and upon removing the trashed oil filter a little spring fell out and nothing else. I have never had this happen to me on a vehicle so it took me completly by suprise.

I did some reading with the search button which brought up one result and it seems this is what im dealing with and its busted with no repair needing the whole assembly to be replaced. Only way its reparible is if its the c-clip version but i dont know cause i didnt see anything but the spring fall out.

Can anyone fill me in more on this problem or do i need to either get one from ford for 200+ or a junkyard possibly not good part.

95 Green 350 XLT CCLB auto 7.3 2wd
WWII, HPO X-over, High flow outlet, 3" dp, straight pipe, Tymar intake(almost there). Looking to purchase a good used engine long block or short

02 35th Anni Z/28 A4
Eibach sportlines, bilsteins, waiting on turbo 6.0 LS build
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post #2 of 22 Old 02-09-2013, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
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Absolutely nothing?

95 Green 350 XLT CCLB auto 7.3 2wd
WWII, HPO X-over, High flow outlet, 3" dp, straight pipe, Tymar intake(almost there). Looking to purchase a good used engine long block or short

02 35th Anni Z/28 A4
Eibach sportlines, bilsteins, waiting on turbo 6.0 LS build
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post #3 of 22 Old 02-09-2013, 06:00 PM
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Here goes: The early PSDs had the Oil Filter bypass valve (which consists of a spring, fiber disk, and washer) staked into the oil cooler/filter adapter header. Obviously as you have found out, the parts tend to fall out. They go back in the hole spring first, then disk, then washer, and then re-staked (that is if you all the pieces). The parts are not available separately, so the solution for not having all the parts is usually to get the updated header assembly which has those parts (and the oil pressure regulating valve on the block-side as well) held in place with snap rings. Here's the part number for that:

Oil Filter Header (updated snap ring retained bypass and regulator valves)
(Ford) F81Z-6881-BA

The part lists for $245.87, but Tousley Ford Parts Online has it for $121.70 (so don't get jacked by a local dealer!). Cheers!

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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post #4 of 22 Old 02-09-2013, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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I appreciate it man, ill look to see if i can find them.

If i find them could everything just be set back in place or is it as i read and just gotta get a new one.

Edit: well i solved that those pieces are MIA.

95 Green 350 XLT CCLB auto 7.3 2wd
WWII, HPO X-over, High flow outlet, 3" dp, straight pipe, Tymar intake(almost there). Looking to purchase a good used engine long block or short

02 35th Anni Z/28 A4
Eibach sportlines, bilsteins, waiting on turbo 6.0 LS build

Last edited by That Other Guy; 02-10-2013 at 10:53 AM.
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post #5 of 22 Old 02-23-2013, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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one other question about it, how would you know if its the updated version?

I went to a junk yard and he pulled his to only have the same parts missing and said he had no more. Im gonna order a new one from the site posted unless there is a serial number to tell me if i have the updated version on the cooler.

The way im thinking is im not that lucky to have a 95 with the updated version.

95 Green 350 XLT CCLB auto 7.3 2wd
WWII, HPO X-over, High flow outlet, 3" dp, straight pipe, Tymar intake(almost there). Looking to purchase a good used engine long block or short

02 35th Anni Z/28 A4
Eibach sportlines, bilsteins, waiting on turbo 6.0 LS build
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post #6 of 22 Old 02-23-2013, 08:47 PM
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With the oil filter removed, you should be able to see the bypass valve washer and disk AND the snap ring holding them in. If there is no visible snap ring, it is the old version where the parts are staked in place. Cheers!

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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post #7 of 22 Old 02-24-2013, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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Right thats what i thought just makin sure.

95 Green 350 XLT CCLB auto 7.3 2wd
WWII, HPO X-over, High flow outlet, 3" dp, straight pipe, Tymar intake(almost there). Looking to purchase a good used engine long block or short

02 35th Anni Z/28 A4
Eibach sportlines, bilsteins, waiting on turbo 6.0 LS build
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post #8 of 22 Old 03-04-2013, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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Im confused here there are three items im looking at, the one you mentioned for 121.70 which states its a rear part of the cooler adapter.
1995 FORD F-350 Parts - Tousley Ford Parts Depot

Then the front part which is on the same page in the above link for 83.74 which i dont guess ill be needing?

But then there is this wich says oil cooler. for 195.39
1995 FORD F-350 Parts - Tousley Ford Parts Depot

Im gonna go on a limb and take the advice posted that i only need the rear portion but whats the diff in all of this. The other day not thinking of course i bought an oil cooler sealing package for when i pull this one to replace it but will i even need it, does the new one come with everything?

Anyway i imagine the two parts seperate and all i need as stated is the rear so just double checking just let me know.

95 Green 350 XLT CCLB auto 7.3 2wd
WWII, HPO X-over, High flow outlet, 3" dp, straight pipe, Tymar intake(almost there). Looking to purchase a good used engine long block or short

02 35th Anni Z/28 A4
Eibach sportlines, bilsteins, waiting on turbo 6.0 LS build
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post #9 of 22 Old 03-05-2013, 08:34 AM
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You should only need the rear part. There are basically 3 main parts to the oil cooler "assembly":

1) the heat exchanger portion (the "oil cooler" itself)
2) the front header adapter (the front portion that bolts to the block and where the heat exhanger goes into on one side)
3) the rear header adapter (the rear portion that bolts to the block and the other end where the heat exchanger goes into, and also where the oil filter screws onto).

Cheers!

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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post #10 of 22 Old 03-07-2013, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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Cool thats what i thought i appreciate it. Just wanted to double check before ordering.

95 Green 350 XLT CCLB auto 7.3 2wd
WWII, HPO X-over, High flow outlet, 3" dp, straight pipe, Tymar intake(almost there). Looking to purchase a good used engine long block or short

02 35th Anni Z/28 A4
Eibach sportlines, bilsteins, waiting on turbo 6.0 LS build
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