Rusty oil pan - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 26 Old 12-05-2007, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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Rusty oil pan

I was wondering if anyone has replaced the oil pan with the motor in the truck. Mine is rusty and starting to leak.

96 350 Reg.cab 7.3 5sp. 4x4
3.5 to 4in dp, 4in strait pipe
4in Superlift w/ Airlift airbags on 315/75/16 Procomp X-Allterain W16x10Procomp wheels
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79 150 4x4 (my wheelin truck)
420ci M motor,c6
4in lift, 35x12.5x15 Mud Terains
was old driver too much $$$--6-9mpg of premium(11.5to1)
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post #2 of 26 Old 12-05-2007, 05:34 PM
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Not sure if it's the same as the 6.0's but i know they have to pull the motor.

RICK


97 F350 CREW CAB 4x4, 7.3 TURBO DIESEL, DIY INTAKE , TW TUNES
GRAND ROCK POWERFLOW STACK KIT W/5" MITRES
3.55 REARS, 3" DOWNPIPE, FPR SHIMMED WITH GAUGE

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post #3 of 26 Old 12-05-2007, 05:51 PM
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I've read that the only way to get the new pan to seal it needs to be upside down over night. the guys at brians also told me this as i'm got mine out to rebuild. I sure someone has done it andsome one said there are some that are glassing their pans. But if you pull it might check out a few things while your at it.
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post #4 of 26 Old 12-05-2007, 06:40 PM
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It can be done in the truck but by the time your done you will wish you had just pulled it out. I will give you the short instructions. Pull mounts, jack up motor all you can, support it at the balancer, drop pan and reach over it (hugging it like a hot blond) and drop the oil pickup into the sump. Now pull the dust cover off bell housing and spend an hour wiggling the pan out, that is the easy part done.

Took me around 12 very hard hours swimming in oil on my back to do it on an 84 6.9 and I will never do it again! and like Copyman said if you yank it you can clean off all the other rust and slap on some paint.
Andy
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post #5 of 26 Old 12-05-2007, 08:29 PM
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All of the 7.3's we have changed pans on, we pulled the engine. The last on I did was a '01 f350 and it took around 11 hours to do.
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post #6 of 26 Old 12-06-2007, 03:29 AM
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It can be done in frame, as described it's a pain.
Just pull the motor.
You will do a much better job with the motor up-side down.
Also, make sure to use the IH/Ford gray silicone. Real good, sticky stuff.

An OBS or 2, or 3...
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post #7 of 26 Old 12-06-2007, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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My only problem with pulling the motor is I tend to get carried away with things. Haha.... That might be a good thing. It ended up taking me a week and a half to do my intercooler(see pics.) Thanks for the advice

96 350 Reg.cab 7.3 5sp. 4x4
3.5 to 4in dp, 4in strait pipe
4in Superlift w/ Airlift airbags on 315/75/16 Procomp X-Allterain W16x10Procomp wheels
Ba### Technicooler(the bad word)
Boost & E.G.T. Guages
Superchips programer(for now)
fpr mod
d.i.y. intake
South Bend clutch

79 150 4x4 (my wheelin truck)
420ci M motor,c6
4in lift, 35x12.5x15 Mud Terains
was old driver too much $$$--6-9mpg of premium(11.5to1)
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post #8 of 26 Old 12-06-2007, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DZL JIM View Post
It can be done in frame, as described it's a pain.
Just pull the motor.
You will do a much better job with the motor up-side down.
Also, make sure to use the IH/Ford gray silicone. Real good, sticky stuff.
i totally agree on pulling the motor AND on the silicone...

One thing about Ford Gray silicone though, it doesnt like surfaces that arent chemically clean. New silicone wont even bond to cured gray silicone. Make sure both surfaces are REALLY clean and then wipe both surfaces down with a clean rag soaked in brake clean....

I usually dont even take them off the cherry picker....ive never flipped one upside down for just the pan. I let them hang...get the pan off....clean both surfaces Then i put the silicone on the pan....wipe all the interior walls of the motor down to keep oil fron dripping down...then wipe the sealing surface with brake clean again and pull the pan up....NEVER had one come back.....
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post #9 of 26 Old 12-06-2007, 06:07 PM
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I bought my rig not running so i decieded to pull motor bearing just starting to so signs that they needed to be replaced but lucked out in the fact that everything miked out standard but had i waited i would have had to do a lot more.oil pan after cleaning had holes and lot of rust to the point would have had total disaster shortly with it. I just ordered today a new oil pan for my 97 7.3 from local part house for $130.00
Thought that was a good price.
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post #10 of 26 Old 12-06-2007, 06:15 PM
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i had to do mine 2 days after i bought my early 99, had it done at mass diesel in walpole mass where instead of pulling the motor they jigged the frame and cut the cross member, had a 25 point certified welder come in from rols royce and weld it back in place(roll of dimes!) luckily it worked out well but still cost me 900$ stealership had to put these pans in and they rust out over time it's inevitable, unfortuanletly well all have to do it sooner or later, best of luck let us know how you make out......

-PJ



~Early 99' F350 PSD 4X4~

>Tymar 6637 intake
>Edge evolution
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>HPX Oil Line- Performance Oil Products
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What's Next
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