Looking for some advice on 1995 F250

[Blainesdad]

Gentleman, I am in the process of buying another older truck to use around the farm and stuff so I don't have to mud up my 2002 crew cab daily driver pulling cattle trailers through mud, etc.
I went and looked at a 1995 ECLB today that is pretty much what I am looking for just had a few concerns about the truck and looking for some advice from you guys that know more than me.
Problem 1. Real bad oil leak looks like right in the area where the dipstick meets the oil pan. I climbed up under it and it looks like the guy has gloved it up with JB weld and it is still leaking. I don't know if I can get that crap off of there and get some high temp silicone or something on it to fix it. I'm obviously not going to pay 2 grand to have a new oil pan installed. Have any of you guys encountered similar troubles with dipsticks leaking and how have you fixed it? I'm not gonna let it continue to leak like that and destroy the driveway and kill the grass, etc.
Problem 2. The truck has a real bad shimmy in the front end when it gets up to about 30 mph and then quits again at about 40-45 mph. It could be a bad tire, but what other front end issues could cause that type of vibration? It didn't appear as though the u-joints in the driveshaft were wore out or anything and the toe-in was pretty good on the truck so I don't think that it is ball joints or anything.

It is all stock set-up and it has 184k on the clock. Truck was in good shape overall with no rust on it. So would the oilpan/dipstick thing scare you much?

One last thing that i noticed too, there was kind of a ball bearing type sound while the truck was at idle but when you pressed the accelerator or when you were driving it stopped. I at first thought chatter in the turbo, but figured that would get worse as it throttled up. Any advice y'all could give would be great.

[kramarj]

If it is leaking at the dipstick they make repair kits- Oil Level Gauge Adapter Repair Kit for 1994 - 2003

There is another one that is supposed to be better, but I cannot remember who makes it or sells it, maybe some one else will know.

[Diesel_brad]

kramarj link will work IF, and a very big IF. the nut was not over tightened and bent the inner piece. If that happened and it is VERY likely, you are SCREWED.

Someone did make a billet piece to fix the bent inner piece without having to remove the pan, but it was almost $300
http://compare.ebay.com/like/1210441...Types&var=sbar

[351fifty]

Still cheaper than pulling motor to get to it

[Nickd18]

If only you were anywhere close to Louisville ky I'd sell you my clean 95' without all those problems.. Lol


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[351fifty]

You could check Atlanta craigslist, lots of psd obs rigs for good deals there

[Blainesdad]

Originally Posted by Nickd18

If only you were anywhere close to Louisville ky I'd sell you my clean 95' without all those problems.. Lol


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Sent you a PM man...I'm only 5 hours from Louisville

[Blainesdad]

Well talked to my local diesel mechanic and he says that it will cost $850 to pull the engine and repair it...
In the meantime I've found a 94 F350 flatbed that is a 5 speed with a clutch with about 50k miles on it and a new rearend that was rebuilt about 40k miles ago. The only downside I see to this truck is that it is the IDI turbo and not the powerstroke DI engine. I really don't care about tons of HP and crap like that, I just want something that will pull my cattle trailer and my my gooseneck trailer with hay on it. Will this turbo IDI perform adequately for that? If I'm really strapped with a heavy load I can always hook my 2002 F250 up on it if needed.
Are there any mods that can be done to the IDI turbo trucks that help them out a little? Can you do the 6637 intake mod and stuff like on the 7.3 Powerstrokes?
Thanks

[351fifty]

You can do almost all the same engine mods to our obs psd's as yours, that idi won't win any races but they were pulling same loads before direct injection fords were, so it will do what you want, just not as fast

[terryknight]

idi will do what you want just fine. besides it already has a solid axle big big plus and a flatbed, that may or may not be helpful around the farm

on the first truck i have used the linked repair kit and it worked, it did take two of them to finally stop the leak - i think i didn't tighten it enough the first time. the shimmy could be anything from a rotor to a broken cord in a tire - to a bad bushing in the front end. the TTBs are awful