95 DIT Need help, wont start after wiring fixes - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 12-30-2012, 04:34 AM
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95 DIT Need help, wont start after wiring fixes

Hey everyone, just joined the site I have been on others but this thread seems to have people who know and work on the 7.3 DIT motor.

95 F350 7.3 DIT with about 165,000 on it, has been primarily a plow truck the last 10 years. The guy I bought it from did a 1st gen minute mount on the truck with the old 12 pin connectors, however I found out the hard way the guy did not know how to wire and wired the plow lights and power right into the main headlight and marker light harness with no inline fuse just on relays. Well long story short I am anal and got fed up withy he lights going out going down the road, I pulled the wiring harnesses apart and removed all of his hacked wiring, I got down to the main harnesses and took forever to locate all of the wires to the markers and headlights even with a schematic. Today I made it a priority to finish the wiring as it was snowing tonight, got all the lights wired correctly and found one dead wire going to passenger marker lights so I wired a bypass 16 gauge from the rear marker wire that runs down behind the motor. All lights work now, all markers and directionals my problem now is that throughout the day I was removing and reconnecting the three main wire distribution boxes, the two on the firewall that go to the inside fuses and inside functions as well as the wire loom to the injection control module on the drivers fender, I would say I had to remove them and reinstall them about 6 times each today just to check voltage and continuity of wires, I however being cold today and hands numb accidentally wacked the injection module controller with the ratchet today, I got everything buttoned up and went to start the truck would not kick over, it will crank and crank forever but just will not fire up. Throughout the whole process I had a battery charger on the main battery throughout the day while I had lights on, when I was finished with everything it just cranked and never fired and I refuse to dump ether into the intake. Fishing around for the past 5 hours seeing what it could be came to the conclusion of many things, the ICP, CSP, oil pressure pump, fuel pump and of course the injection module controller I wacked with the ratchet. Now with about a foot of snow on the ground here in RI I am without my plow truck, I really need to get the truck running so I can plow my accounts tomorrow which I know probably is going to be a long shot. Does anyone know if a sudden shock to the injection control will disable it or fry it when I hit it with the ratchet, or possibly maybe fried something else during removal and installation of the distribution blocks so many times, I will also admit that once or twice I accidentally also removed the distribution blocks while the ignition key was on and flowing so I know I possibly may have fried something. I am at a stand still. I have all the manuals for the truck and can find all the sensors, just didn't really want to spend about $600 this weekend to get it up and going. There are a few things I will be checking asap mainly will be the oil level in the reservoir for the high pressure pump, outside of that any suggestion with what I did today where the best place to start is. Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance.

Greg
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Old 12-30-2012, 04:57 AM
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Update

Just a few updates,

I just remembered that when I was trying to crank it over last night that one of the tell tale signs of lack of fuel is no white smoke from the tailpipe. I did have some residual white smoke last night, not a ton but I had a small white cloud slowly coming from the pipe when I was trying to crank, I am going to assume it is getting fuel which is why I am boggled that if I am getting fuel through the injectors the IDM may be working and I may just have some thick oil and a lack of pressure. I am not 100% sure but I did notice that my oil pressure gauge is not working properly as when I attempt to crank her over the gauge picks up and flys right over to the high side of the gauge. I think I am going to replace the pressure switch first and see where it gets me along with a new CPS while im there, im sure with 165K now it might be going. I will update along the way.
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:14 AM
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Does your wait to start light come on? Does the tach move while cranking? And good job not using ether thats a good way to ensure your engine will never run right again.
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:25 AM
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check underhood maxi fuse 22 and see if its blown
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:35 AM
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Update

Hey guys thanks for the info, I'm working on the truck now with replying on my phone. So far what I've checked is max fuse 22 was not blown but I switched it anyway. #2 relay was clicking yesterday when the battery died so I put a new one in. The HPOP reservoir is completely full, I removed just the see plug and it was right there so that's good. I kept the intake cover off for now just cause I'm probably changing the oil pressure sensor, cam sensor and the IDP sensor while I'm there, there still original and might need to be changed.
To answer your suggestions the glow plug light does come on for about 15-20 seconds and goes off, it is cold about 25 degrees today I figured it should stay on longer than that, maybe the relay is gone.
The tach does move just above the 0 line but does not go any higher when I'm cranking, the batteries are a little low possibly the truck just isn't getting enough juice to kick over. I'm off to autozone unfortunately to buy an inferior oil pressure sensor, I will have to do with that for now.
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cucino2803 View Post
I am not 100% sure but I did notice that my oil pressure gauge is not working properly as when I attempt to crank her over the gauge picks up and flys right over to the high side of the gauge.
That means it IS working properly. That gauge is for lube oil pressure, and it's really just an idiot light with a needle. It always either reads zero when there's no or insufficient oil pressure, or the high side when there is sufficient oil pressure. When you crank the motor, eventually the lube oil pump builds enough pressure to energize the gauge. So that's just telling you that indeed the lube oil pump is working, and there's enough oil in the truck.

There is no glow plug light. The Wait To Start light is timed by the PCM, as is the glow plug relay. The two are on completely separate time programs have nothing to do with one another. At those temperatures, the glow plugs relay should remain energized for about two minutes. The WTS light is usuall rather "optimistic" at low temperatures, however, esp. if the block heater isn't plugged in. To run the glow plugs longer, just leave the key in RUN for an extra 10-15 seconds after the WTS light goes off. 'Course, if you have weak batteries, that will affect not only how well the glow plugs glow, but how well the starter cranks. So a slow charge on the batteries would be a good idea.

BTW, good thing you started your own thread. It's one thing to add to an old, resolved thread with something similar, but with an active thread, it gets confusing with two different people's issues at the same time in one thread (who's responding to what, etc).

Last edited by madpogue; 12-30-2012 at 09:40 AM.
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:51 AM
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Madpogue

Hey madpouge thanks for the info, I knew the dash gauges and lights were really only 12volt idiot warnings, the only reason I bring up the oil pressure gauge is that the gauge never used to do that, it would usually run in the middle of the gauge and not always on the high side, either way being a high pressure system as it is I am not to concerned about it. I however did not know the glow plugs were on a separate system from the WTS lights, I thought that was for the glow plugs. I am just worried that I may have fried the IPS processor when I wacked it with the ratchet, but I am getting fuel with the white smoke being present. I will have to wait till after the batteries are fully charged and I have full battery to engage the injectors and the rest of the system. I so far checked all of my fuses, max fuses and relays in the under hood box they are all good, checked the oil in the reservoir for the HPOP and that is full, have WTS light, have white smoke and the tach moves very slightly while cranking at first then stays at 0. I may have missed something but that is all I can think of for the moment, one last thing which I am sure doesn't have anything to do with it is after fixing all of the wiring for the lights my drivers door interior light now will not go off, it is on constant even with the door closed, outside of my major problem any idea why this might be? Thanks
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Old 12-30-2012, 10:35 AM
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id get the batteries charged up fully and go from there, plug the block heater in too if you havent already.
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Old 01-01-2013, 07:51 AM
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Finally started

Hey everyone, just wanted to thank you all for your input and help with my starting issue. I really didn't want to spend money on chasing down things that could be wrong, I took everyone's advice and started at the small things by fully charging the batteries and plugging the block heater in. I changed the fuel filter just cause it looked like crap and the oil pressure solenoid just cause that was original as well. Turns out it was just the weather and sitting for about a month really kept everything from turning over. She fired up yesterday after everything and is running great, just thrilled that I didn't blow the IDM or anything else like I thought I did.
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:19 AM
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glad it was an easy fix for you
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