EBPV SYSTEM? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 12-10-2012, 07:05 AM
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EBPV SYSTEM?

Can someone esplain this system to me? I get the valve closes to help warm up the motor. I get most people delete, unplug or turn it into a Jake brake of sorts. But what's telling it to open or close? I was under the impression it had something to do with the sensor on the back passenger side of the hoop with the line going down to the passenger side manifold? If thaw the case mine is clogged solid. Ive jacked with it for 2 days trying to get it clean. I was going to have a new tube made, but i don't know if its worth my time?

Can anyone enlighten me?
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:50 AM
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The EBPV system uses three sensors in conjunction to determine if the valve should close or not. Further the valve does not need to close all the way as the PCM has a 0-99% feedback built into the solenoid in the pedestal. By the book when you cycle the key to run the PCM takes a reading from the IAT (intake air temp. sensor) and the EOT (engine oil temp. sensor) to determine if the conditions are right for closer of the valve. Ford says that the right temperature is <37* from the IAT and anywhere from 32-140* reading on the EOT. I say "by the book" because here in So. Cal. it does not get that cold but I still had full function of the EBPV (may be due to California's stricter emission laws). If the IAT or/and the EOT are not functioning properly the PCM defaults to a known internal value and keeps the valve open as well as set a code/MIL light. The EBPS from the passenger head works to counter the signal from the IAT and EOT on start-up so that the exhaust's back pressure doesn't build too much when you decide to drive the truck before the PCM has decided that the engine is warm enough to do so.

The EBPS also has the job of monitoring the exhaust while driving and along with the MAP sensor controls and monitors boost levels in the truck. If the MAP sensor sees a lot of boost but the EBPS doesn't see the exhaust pressure move/change the PCM (disputed, My truck and a couple others on here have done this but there are plenty of others that this has not happened to. Again might just might be a California thing) will either de-fuel the truck or partially close the valve to reduce the boost level in an effort to stop the PCMs thought of a runaway diesel. Starting the truck and getting no signal from or signal is out of range of the EBPS the PCM defaults to 43.5 PSI and assumes the truck has a restricting in the exhaust thus killing the possibility of the valve closing and de-fueling the truck so that it _should_ not be possible to over boost the vehicle and damage the turbo. Aftermarket chips have ways of circumventing these stock PCM strategies though it doesn't always work.

If you would like the values to test each sensor with a meter just let me know.

Last edited by BigFuel; 12-10-2012 at 01:57 PM.
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:16 AM
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i dont know if id be bright enough to do it, but hell im game.

im thinking my system is working right but not sure how with that tube so clogged. ive pulled it off twice, tried to run a wire thru to break some up. soaked in brake clean, soaked in chemtool. there is no giving. i think i have some ss braided line at the house. if its the same size i may try to get it to work.

basically if its cold (for example this morning) it was about 18 deg. that was the coldest morning since ive owned her. she was plugged in for about 3-4 hours. let the GP's heat for about 45 sec. started her up.....she was angry this morning. EBPV shut and she sat at idle for about 10 min while i got the kid ready. after 10 min of idle and about a 4 mile drive the EBPV started to cycle open and closed then full open.

i dont see the truck running bad (then again its been clogged since ive owned it so maybe it is) MPGs are around 18-20. Is this something i need to look into or just let her eat?
also this week hopefully ill have my water heater installed. the water temp should be around 150-175* at start up for what ever thats worth
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:46 AM
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To back probe a connector take several staples and straighten one of the legs out. Carefully work each staple into the connector between the water shield and wire from the top and insert fully until you can see the connection with a meter set to Ohm's scale from the pin on the inside to the staple. There is no damage that will be done to the wiring in this manner and you can pinpoint test several items at once with the engine running or not. Here are the test sheets, just right click and copy to Word to print (I also added in the test procedure for the IPR, ICP, and the communication between the PCM and IDM for your reference):













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Old 12-10-2012, 12:00 PM
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New tubes are not that expensive, but here's an old air-cooled VW heat riser trick:

Use carb cleaner and some wire rope chucked in a variable-speed drill. Use the wire rope and drill like a plumbing snake to clean out the soot. Works well and doesn't take too long. Also make sure you get the sensor and fitting clean too. Cheers!
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