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My CCSB build
Ford NEVER made a 4wd dually Pickup till 99, so I decided to build one.
I have been getting alot of PMs and alot of question on here so I might as well do a build.
I did not plan on getting to involved with this truck but I cant help myself.
It is a 97 CCSB 7.3 5spd 147k on the truck. I am the 4th owner.
Day I pickup it up
When i first got it, it needed rear spring hangers and shackles. I did those, got them from NAPA. While I had the bed off doing those i noticed the rear shock hangers are pretty bad, so i picked up a good used pair, i still need to put them on.
The shackle(part# 650-4098) comes with bushing installed, bushing for the spring and the 2 bolts that go thru the hanger and the spring. My cost was $26 each
The hanger(part #650-4099) comes with the 7/16" mounting hardware. My cost each was $30 each
I then had an issue with the e-brake not holding. So i tore into the rear brakes. I had a n axle seal leaking and worn down shoes. So it got new shoes, hardware and a axle seal.Also did the 08 Diff cover while I had the axle apart.
The correct Scott seal or what ever you call it is #34387
It is basicly a 2 piece seal, similar to a roller bearing.
The seal is "pressed" into the hub just like your normal seal, BUT the inner part of the seal that normally rides on the spindle does not spin on the spindle. It just slides on making a tight seal. Then the outer part that is pressed into the hub spins around the part that is sealed to the spindle.
Since my spindle was so pitted and i didnt want to have any further leaks i put a thin layer of RTV on the spindles surface where the seal lays and i also did the same thing on the outside of the seal where it is pressed into the hub.
Enough w the babling ,here are the pics
The bare backing plate
My pitted spindle
the new SCOTSEAL
Backing plate side
Seal pressed into hub w a little RTV to seal it to the hub
Little bit of RTV on the spindle
I slid the hub onto the spindle by hand and when seal hit the spindle i stopped. I put the outer wheel bearing in, the nut and tightened by hand. This very evenly and gently pushed the tight fitting seal on to the spindle. I spun it a couple of time, torqued(60ft lbs), spun a couple more times checked torque, backed of the recommended amount(8 clicks). spun it some more. backed it off, torqued it again(60ft lbs) then backed off the 8 clicks. Then put the axle in, cleaned and relocktighted the bolts, put then in by hand then torqued to (50ft lbs)
I then assembled the brakes and put the drums back on, tires and checked my axle lube level. It was a lil low but i am not worried, i have new 08 alum diff cover coming tomorrow. So i just went out in my driveway and got sideways on the hill letting the axle lube run to the right side(the seal i just changed) and sat there for a good 30 sec. and let the hub fill with oil. I went for a test drive of about 20 miles.
Came home, jacked the truck back up, pulled the tire and drum, and it is all dry.
hope this is able to help someone else out, in a similar situation
I had to change the rear differential cover on my 97 due to rot so I upgraded to the aluminum differential cover off of a 08- current SD part #8C3Z-4033-A
It is a direct replacement for the original 10.25 tin cover. All that is needed is new bolts to mount it. I ended up using 5/16" X 1 1/2" Grade 8 bolts w 1/4 flat washers and 5/16 lock washers. I wanted to use 1 1/4 bolts but could find any. I dont have any leaks yet from it not being tight enough but I am going to keep an Eye on it
Next up was to get the truck inspected. Well while getting inspected, it needed front brakes, axle u-joints and ball joints. So i said F the Dana 50 and picked up a 95 Dana 60. So far, the complete axle was tore down, sandblasted painted, new ball joints(XRF), axle u-joints(spicer), spindle bearings and seals, axle seals, pinion seal, made a new passenger side u-bolt plate, steering linkage(XRF), and Spicer's extra thick diff cover.
Everything sandblasted and awaiting paint
Next up is to get a SRW pair of front hubs, new rotors,and calipers and Install the D60 w my SKY RSK, SD "V" code springs and Bilstine 5100 seires shocks from Cary T(OBSWIZ).
After i get that in the front, I will have to see what exactly I want to do with the rear of the truck.
Today i thru a set of 285s on the truck, that i got off of one of my parts trucks.
Last edited by Diesel_brad; 11-18-2012 at 04:15 PM.
I ripped out the problem-matic TTB D50 and put in a 95 Dana 60, a RSk and SD V code springs. This coming weekend the 315s will be going on. Here is a link to the RSK/SD combo with the Dana 60
I started with this
Sagging front springs, beat ball joints, bad u-joints, destroyed pivot bushings, worn rotors, shot brakes, you know, your typical 100k+ TTB
So i did this
After the axle was removed, I removed the pivot brackets, leaf springs and shackles.
I then spent about an HOUR AND A HALF cutting off the bumper brackets
Ford welded them on all 4 sides(top, bottom, front and back)
Next up is prepping your RSK to be mounted in the Forward location to use the SD springs
I cut the bushings out of the inside(2 small welds per bushing)
What i cut off
After is was cut off
next up is clearancing the RSK for the Military wrap of the SD springs. I removed 3/8" others have removed less, i just wanted to be sure the springs would clear.
Next is mounting the RSK in the correct location for the SD springs.
Cary wants you to check the center point of your front axle before removing it. But mine was already out by the time I got that info. SO I just mounted the RSK forward 3.5" of where it would of went if I was to use OBS springs.
Should be able to see my scribe marks
After it was clamped in place(3.5" forward and the 5/8 hole still the same height as the original shackle hole) the 10 needed holes were drilled.(4 5/8" and 6 1/2") Pay no nevermind to the 1/2" bolts on the inside of the RSK in the most forward position(dont drill those holes, your bumper brakes will be going right over those holes)
After the RSK was in place I drilled out the spring holes to 3/4" and the military wrap end of the spring to 3/4". (you need to buy (2) 3/4" x 5.5" grade 8 bolts with nuts and washers)
Also I drill out the wide end of the shackle to 5/8" to match the other end of the SD spring. (you also need to buy (2) 5/8" x 5.5 grade 8 bolts with washers and nuts here too)
Next was to install your SD springs. Before I install ANY leaf springs i thoroughly coat the spring bolts with anti seeze. Put the springs in place but DO NOT tighten the hardware YET.
Install your track bar mount and track bar drop bracket (if you are using one)
Roll the axle under the truck and U-bolt the springs to the axle.
After you have the axle u-bolted to the springs you can lower the trucks weight onto the axle. You can NOW tighten your spring to hanger hardware. Install your steering linkage . Install your brake hardware. Install your new shocks.
Roll the truck forward and backward about 20 feet or so a couple times to center the axle. Now you can connect your track bar to your mount(axle side and frame side). I did NOT use a track bare drop bracket in fear for contact with the sway bar. I just used a SKY adjustable track bar and it works just fine.
Had to cut and weld the bumper brackets back on
If you notice, the mount is about flush with the front of the RSK crossmember. This will give you enough clearance to mount the bumper and NOT have it hit the crossmember. I notched my bumper to clear the actual spring hanger of the RSK. I cut 5"wide x 3"deep.(but i only needed about 1" deep)
As you can see, i cut too much out of my bumper
And you can see the mount(the flat piece that bolts to the bumper has about 1/2" clearance from the RSK crossmember
Next up was the rear. I bought a Ready lift 5" block kit for a 99-05 SD
Install is just a matter of swapping out the 2.5" blocks for 5" blocks. I cut about 2" off the u-bolts so i could tighten them with an impact wrench. Also intall new shocks at this time.
And here is the finished product. i gained 5" of lift in the front and 2.5" in the rear. Now i just need to get my new tires and wheels
The ride is better, but i cant really say how butch better. I wish i had another STOCK CCSB to hop into now that mine is done. But my back seat used to rattle going down the road now, it is quiet
You also have to take into effect, I took out original 148k shocks , springs and worn bushing and put in new front springs and 4 new shocks.
There is roof for an intercooler just in the fact that the RSK is pushed forward 3.5" when using the SD springs. The intercooler would mount behind the RSK crossmember.
Currently the truck has 285/75/16 on the 16x7 wheels. it will be getting 315/75/16 on 16x10 wheels
O yeah. Forgot. Here is a pic next to a STOCK f350. Mind you the CCSB has 285s and the yellow truck has 235s but you get the idea
A parts list for a Dana 60 swap into a F250
One of the following FORD Dana axles, it is your choice.
85.5-91 King Pin Dana 60
91-94 Ball Joint w pin on calipers
95-97 ball Joint w bolt on style calipers
The t-case yolk
if you have a 1356(80's-95) you will need a yolk from the same vintage f350 to use the F350 front drive shaft.
If you have a 4407(96/97) you will need a yolk from the same vintage f350 to us the f350 the front drive shaft
THEY ARE NOT INTERCHANGABLE
Next. A RSK. You can go with a SKY manufacturing or a ORU(off road unlimited). For the SD spring swap I used a SKY one, I would reccomend a I/C version even if not putting a I/C in for bumper mounting reasons.
Then you need a set of SD springs. casting numbers on the springs are not a big help. Your best bet is to look at the spring code sticker in the door jam of the truck they came out of.
I used "V code" springs part 2C3Z-5310-HA
An adjustable track bar is a good investment(especially if using a anti-swaybar) SKY sell this. And i use one instead of the Track bar drop bracket. I have Very little bump steer if any.
Shocks. It is up to you on what shocks you run but Bilstein shocks give the best ride.
Front 33-185552 / F4-BE5-6248-H5
Rear 33-185569 / F4-BE5-6249-H5
Stainless brake hoses(may be able to reuse your brake hoes but mine were 145k old so i bought new longer ones
Additional hardware you will need to buy because The SD springs have different spring eye diameters than the OBS springs(sky gives most of the necessary hardware to mount the RSK. ( I suggest all grade 8 and SAE washers) But if you plan on bolting it in(not welding at all) You need to buy
(4) 5/8" x 1.5" bolts, 8 flat washers and 4 nylock nuts
For the front spring eye you have 2 choices
1. go to for and pay about $25 each for the 18mm nut and bolt
2. go to a hardware store and buy store and buy (2) 3/4"x5.5" bolts with 4 flat washers and 2 nylock nuts(about $18 for it all)
For the back of the rear spring(where it attaches to the shackle)
You also will need (2) 5/8"x5.5" bolts with 4 flat washers and nylock nuts.
As long as you have 2 reusable bolts from the old springs you can reuse those to attach your new shackle to the hanger(the one under the front cab mount). If not you will need (2) 9/16" x 5.5" bolts with 4 flat washers and 2 nylock nuts
Next would be track Bar mounting bolts.(SKY kit comes with this but only grade 5)
(3) 1/2" x 2" bolts with 6 flat washers and 3 nylock nuts(you may have to trim the end of the far right bolt) it may be close the pan.(I trimmed about 3/8" off mine)
I bought 2 new bolts to mount the track bar. Axle side is 1/2" x 3" and truck side is 1/2" x3.5" Also get 4 flats and 4 nylock nuts.
If using a anti-swaybar you will need (6) 7/16"x 1.25" Bolts, 12 flats, and 6 nylock nuts to attache the brackets to the frame. You will also need (2) 1/2" x 2" bolts with 4 flats and 2 nylock lock nuts, to attach the endlinks. If you did not get the drivers side axle attaching hardware you will need (2) 1/2"x 1.5" bolts with 4 flats and 2 nylock nuts
U-BOLTS. Alot of people reuse u-bolts. They are NOT designed to be reused. You will need (4) 9/16 x8"x3" squares. Jeff's bronco Graveyard has a set for about $35 but you will want to trim about 1.25" off of them.
I believe that covers all the hardware, IF not please post up what i missed.
Rear 5" blocks. I bought Ready Lift ones, because they have the wing for the bumpstop built in like the factory.
The only real "speciality" tools i needed to buy was a 3/4" and 5/8" drill bits to enlarge the front spring hanger and eye(3/4) and the spring end of the shackle(5/8)
here is a LIST, what I paid and where I got them
SKY RSK (CT performance) 300
SKY track bar (CT) 145
CROWN SS brake hoses (CT ) 130
Bilsteins (all 4) (CT) 330
SD "V" code springs (local dealer) 294(pair)
U-bolts (JBG) # 33286 39
Skyjacker end links(summit)#SBE-304 63
Moog#K8762 sway bushings(Amazon) 18
Ready Lift 5" block66-2195(amazon) 159
Grade 8 hardware(local store) 50
1511 + fright on some items
w 315s on 8" wheels
Clutch(trans will get freshened too)
Pulled the truck in the garage, pulled the driveshaft and 4wd shifter. I pulled the 6 bolts holding the t-case to the trans and HOLY ####. It was frozen SOLID. I put 2 bolts in loosely and began kicking the t-case as hard as I could for about 5min straight. It FINALLY just started to wiggle. I kicked it for another 5 min for it finally come out all the way. Some jeck off had it RTVd on it will be getting a gasket when it goes back together like when it left the factory
Got the trans out
I cut the DP out too
Found a couple surprises from the previous owners trans guy
Chunk missing from tailhousing of trans
I got the Valair organic clutch in w the rebuilt trans. It is O so nice.
While the trans was down, what better time to massage the firewall for the larger exhaust. Put in the MBRP exhaust(3.5" DP and 4" to the end) the DP hits the firewall(above the pinch weld) and it also hits the FLOOR. Needed to remove the passenger side trans crossmember gusset. I had to modify 2 of the hangers so they would even work. And the tailpipe hits the leaf sprins under normal driving VERY dissapointed with the fitment of the MBRP exhaust. I will never buy again.
I also got a 3 pod A pillar mount. Put in autometer EGT and Boost gauge and actually mounted the DP tuner that came in the truck instead of having it slide around on the dash.
Put the Factory CD player in and took out the aftermarket radio that was in there.
I also mounted a set of AirLift air bags to help with the added weight of the trailer. The truck only sits 1" higher in the rear w the RSK but actually looks like it is low in the rear due to the larger front wheel wells. When installing the Airbags i noticed I only have 4 leafs rear leaf springs. I guess I will be investing in some B codes for this truck too.
The front driveshaft has been out of the truck since the D60 swap because the u-joints were shot and I was afraid to try in on my own with the cardian joint. But I had time and little money so i tried it on my own. It was pretty straight forward. I just needed the centering ball because I sandblasted the hell out of it Well the ball I got from Advance was not quite right and NAPA was only able to get me the ball with the centering Yolk, so I went that route. I have about $90 into the front driveshaft, That includes 3 greasable u-joints and the centering yolk.
Next on the list was to take out an clean the Exhaust back pressure tube since I have had a Check engine light since i bough the truck. The tube was VERY crusty but I was able to clean it somewhat with brake clean and compressed air, The adapter that the sensor threads into was almost plugged shut so i cleaned that. I also replaced the sensor for good measure.
While trailering i was ready to rip the brake controller out and run the *****!ng thing over. So I went and spent some serious coin on a Maxx Brake. I mounted it the cubby hole so i dont smash my hand into it when shifting the 4wd lever. (haven't tried it yet, hopefully this week).
The emergency brake has been giving me trouble since I bought the truck. I thought new shoes and an adjustment would of fixed it, but no such luck.
So this week while I had time I decided to tear into it AGAIN. My front cable came out in 2 pieces so I ordered a new Ford one. My intermediate one is stretched 1" but they are now obsolete . My NEW rear shoes are all cracked from driving away with the e-brake on(because it doesn't hold *****) and the light was burned out(new bulb put in). I ordered new shoes from Ford but they screwed up and got me 97 LIGHT DUTY F250 shoes, so tomorrow afternoon hopefully the right shoes and the new front cable will be in so I can get them in. If I still dont have enough e-brake pedal, I am going to get one of those universal adjusters. if that fixes it, I will order a new intermediate cable form Inline Tube(they custom make them)
Today I installed the DeeZee tough steps I took of of my 96 CCLB. My GF was have issues getting in and and it is just easier to get in the truck with some sort of step
Tomorrow I hope to install a set of FORD cab lights
Then I get to try out the 4wd, brake controller and see if the check engine light comes back.
Wish me luck.
Cab light install
How-To install cab lights - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
And the MAxxBrake
And the Autometer Z series gauges
And added DeeZee tough Steps #23
O and ALL NEW Copper/nickel alloy brake lines(never rust)
Some things have changed since I started this project. I am making the truck a Dually on 35s. I cant remember if i stated it before but the truck is going to be repainted silver and WHITE(no more toreador red). I have some of the parts but not everything.
So far I have ....
2 clean fenders
clean rad support
clear crew cab door
clean SMOOTH tailgate
dually rear axle
dually front hubs
6 aluminum dually wheels
99 Aluminum I/C
Custom I/C tubes
PMF RSK(getting rid of the SKY one)
U code front springs(getting rid of the V codes)
B code rear springs
Gallon of POR 15 in black for the frame
Gallon of TSC lo glare black for he frame
Gallon of POR 15 in silver for primer for the back of all the body panels
2 more Kelly TRS tires
And a BOAT LOAD more time
Tomorrow I am going to pickup a pair of tow mirrors and hope to get going on some of the small things.
I am debating on putting a Warn Enforcer bumper on. I have 2 but they are for a 80-91 style. What do you all think? If I do this, I dont "think" I will have to get rid of the SKY RSK
Got some small things done this week. Got the rear passenger door window working again(bad motor).
Also got the Nemo mirrors off and the new Tow mirrors installed.
Fixed the loose P/W,PDL bulge on the drivers door(very easy fix)
rest of the weekend end was fixing my brother jet ski.
next up is installing my I/C then modifying my "new" rad support before sandblast and POR15
Got very LITTLE done this weekend.
Got the new fenders, rad support and tailgate sandblasted and sanded smooth. Ready for no dents to be fixed
Just picked up my inner aluminum dully wheels from the machine shop. So now I will be able to run 6 aluminum wheels
This weekend was pretty productive
Yesterday I test fir the I/C into the old rad support.
Today I mimicked my cuts onto my new rad support.
Got the body work done on both new fenders and got them in prime on the face. Block them out tomorrow
Right now I am waiting on the POR15 to dry on the fender backs, and new rad support so i can squirt on some color and clear.
May start to mock up the Enforcer bumper on the truck while waiting for the paint
VERY roughly mocked up
Lil more progress
Got some more work done today after running errands. Fenders and cowl off
This pic is for those that though my truck was SO CLEAN
Was using a heated pressure washer today to get the Zeibart of the frame. Where the Zeibart was, the frame is like NEW. Still need to sandblast and POR15 the entire thing.
Today was doing the dreaded body mounts. I went to my local hardware supply house today. Got some grade 8 7/16" threaded rod and some grade 8 nuts. I already had some 3" exhaust tubing.
I cut the 3" tubing to a 5" length.
Cut the threaded rod to about 9-10".
I had a piece of left over metal from another project to straddle the tubing and have the threaded rod go thru it.
Threaded the rod into the bottom mount from the bottom(after the bolt as removed)
Then slid the 3" tubing on over the rubber bushing.
Then the scrap metal
Then 2 lubed washers
And then the nut
I used a gear wrench to tighten the nut until it pulled the lower mount from the upper mount.
All in all, it took me about 10 minuets to do all 4 mounts(not counting pulling the fuel tank) not quite sure how guys pull the drivers rear with the tank still there.
My rear crossmember where the mounts sits was pretty scaly, so took my air hammer with chisel and gave it a couple wacks to knock the scale off. Then gave it a coat of POR15 top and bottom to protect it. Tomorrow I will reassemble the cab mounts and move on to the rad support mounts.
O and I measured the old front mounts with the cab sitting on it and again with the new POLY mounts in place. I gained 1/4"
And my AWESOME body lift:-blah
Got the interior completely gutted(other than dash)
drivers rear door(rotted one) removed
other 3 doors gutted
fuel tank temporarily installed (to move truck)
SKY RSK removed and PMF RSK installed
Tomorrows plans are....
Remove SRW axle and put in DRW axle
remove front drive shaft
move truck around back of garage
remove rear drive shaft
remove fuel tank
remove fuel lines and frame harness
jack up and remove wheels
If all goes well...... Sandblast
Some pics of the PMF RSK
Today I put the rear axle in. I have to see how it sits with the B codes and the 4 or 5 " blocks
And the cab all stripped out(you can see the driver door pinch weld rotted out, that I will have to reconstruct
New pinch weld for the drivers door
Well I picked up my dually fenders and wheel spacers at the trucking terminal yesterday. I have to say, the fenders look DAM NICE!! And the spacers are billet steel. i think i am going to have them powder coat, or I may sandblast and give them a coat of POR15.
I dont care for how they have you leave the entire old wheel well intact behind the dually fender, but I will fix that!! I have to go to the junk yard and cut up an OEM dually bed for its supports, then I can remove my outer wheel well/bed side
Got her all sandblasted today.
Took 1100lbs and 4 hours.
Tomorrow POR15 and paint
Its been a L O N G morning. Got the POR15 on 2 coats, now waiting for that to setup then 2 coats of TSC Black to topcoat
I have another rad support that I sandblasted, POR15ed and Color matched waiting to go in. That one is TOAST
Some pics after the paint
Last edited by Diesel_brad; 02-05-2013 at 04:48 AM.
I got the new rad support in and fenders on.
Also got the drivers body work done and in prime.(cab only)
Pulled steering column to find why it will NOT start with key
Removed pedals to replace worn bushing only to find I got the wrong ones.
And my riding mower blew up, so I had to pull the engine to get that rebuilt. needed to get the old 8N running to mowing the lawn with that.
Today I hope to get the rear shocks, rear swaybar, front swaybar and front driveshaft in
Well. Got the back of the front / rear bumpers and drivers rear door sandblasted. Got one coat of POR15 on, letting it setup so I can give it a second coat. Going to add some oval pop in LEDs for backup lights as well
Got a lil more done this weekend
Got the passenger side in prime minus the cab corner(still need to cut that out and weld in new)
Also the driver side is about done as well. Just need to block out the rear door and rehang it.
Got my I/C in. Just need some clamps for the intake boots to spider and final touches on hood latch.
As usual, working to many hours and 10 other projects going,
Yesterday i picked up a 40-20-40 seat frame for the rear seat.
Today Got the new hood block sanded and primed
Also finished the body work on the roof and cab corner, also in prime.
Tomorrow the plan is to REsand the rockers AGAIN and Get some tiecoat prime on them
Well, I went to cut in the drivers rear door, hood and door jams. But alas, Murphy returns once again. Hood and drivers jams turned out good.
BUT the drivers rear door looked like I spayed it with WD-40 before I started to paint
And the passenger rocker had some weird chemical reaction and the paint curdled
So I guess tomorrow instead of fitting the hood ,door and wet sanding, I will be resanding and trying to repaint the things that went wrong