7.3 sputters and dies when cold? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 11-13-2012, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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7.3 sputters and dies when cold?

Hey all, figured I'd post this in the general section to see if anyone can give me some advice. Last year when it got cold out, when I would start the truck up it would run great. Then when I gave it some throttle to help warm it up on the really cold mornings, or when I was driving down my drive way, it would start sputtering and missing, and then if it would either stop and go back to idle, or the truck would stall. I must've spoken too soon because I was just saying the other day how happy I was it had stopped doing it I talked to a diesel shop last year, and one of their techs suggested the injector seals. Any other thoughts on this? Here is a video of the truck doing it. This is with me holding the throttle at about 1200-1400 RPM, steady.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_BrP...o&feature=plcp

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Eric
1995 F250 XLT 4x4 E40D

Current Mods: TW tuned, 3/8" trans. lines, BTS VB, Tru-Cool 40k cooler, 6637 Intake, 3" DP, 5" Aussies, Isspro EV2's, smoked tails/heads and 35w/5000k HID's, GM tow mirrors.
Future Mods:Rosewood Stage 2's, D66 with WW2, Intercooler, E-Fuel, T-500, SAS.

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post #2 of 10 Old 11-13-2012, 12:40 PM
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Do you have AE or can you get close enough to a member with one? You need to run datalogging on APS, ICP and engine rpm. Are you getting smoke out the pipe? If so, what color?

I'm gonna go ahead and ask is your fuel filter newer, and your oil and filter changed recently?

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post #3 of 10 Old 11-13-2012, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry, I forgot to include all of that. I am due for an oil change soon and will be doing so in the next week or two, but I am not over due. Level is good, and the fuel filter is newer as well. It only smokes a bit when it starts up, puffs out a little white smoke, and then it goes away. Ironically enough, I am going to have it AE scanned this afternoon, so I will let you know what the findings are. Do you think it could have anything to do with the EBPV?

Eric
1995 F250 XLT 4x4 E40D

Current Mods: TW tuned, 3/8" trans. lines, BTS VB, Tru-Cool 40k cooler, 6637 Intake, 3" DP, 5" Aussies, Isspro EV2's, smoked tails/heads and 35w/5000k HID's, GM tow mirrors.
Future Mods:Rosewood Stage 2's, D66 with WW2, Intercooler, E-Fuel, T-500, SAS.

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post #4 of 10 Old 11-13-2012, 12:55 PM
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Honestly, probably not. The EBPV just turns on and makes it sound like a jet and you can't run your truck over 2k, when its shut.

If you mean just scanning for codes, that is a start. But it is also a good idea to run the datalogging like I said. Sometimes it doesn't trip a code. Also check your fuel pressure at the schrader.

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post #5 of 10 Old 11-13-2012, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Unfortunately, this morning when I started it up, it didn't do the sputtering thing today, but it doesn't always do it, it varies quite a bit. Hooked up AE to it, and as for monitoring wise, everything seemed OK, but I'll see if it changes tomorrow.

As for codes, it brought these three codes up:

PO344- CPS A Circuit Intermittent (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
PO236- Turbo Charger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
PO470- Exhaust Pressure Sensor

Think I might need a new CPS and an EBPV delete? If I do the delete, will I still need to clean the tube and sensor?

Eric
1995 F250 XLT 4x4 E40D

Current Mods: TW tuned, 3/8" trans. lines, BTS VB, Tru-Cool 40k cooler, 6637 Intake, 3" DP, 5" Aussies, Isspro EV2's, smoked tails/heads and 35w/5000k HID's, GM tow mirrors.
Future Mods:Rosewood Stage 2's, D66 with WW2, Intercooler, E-Fuel, T-500, SAS.

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post #6 of 10 Old 11-13-2012, 08:30 PM
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0236 could be a bad map sensor, a blocked map hose, or a lose connection. Un plug the map and try to blow through the map line. It couldn't hurt even to replace that hose because it can get broken and close shut under pressure. If you unplug your map and it drives better your MAP is bad. The truck defaults to other known factors for operation.

The EBPV code could be soot blocking your line, an inoperable/unplugged/shorted epv, or a bad EBPS sensor.

The 0344 code can result from extended crank times, clear it and if it comes back you know to explore your cps wiring for shorts or replace your cps.

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post #7 of 10 Old 12-15-2012, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glovemeister View Post
0236 could be a bad map sensor, a blocked map hose, or a lose connection. Un plug the map and try to blow through the map line. It couldn't hurt even to replace that hose because it can get broken and close shut under pressure. If you unplug your map and it drives better your MAP is bad. The truck defaults to other known factors for operation.

The EBPV code could be soot blocking your line, an inoperable/unplugged/shorted epv, or a bad EBPS sensor.

The 0344 code can result from extended crank times, clear it and if it comes back you know to explore your cps wiring for shorts or replace your cps.
Sorry for responding so late I have been so busy and haven't been checking. . .

I'll try unplugging the MAP tomorrow, thanks for the information. I hadn't even thought about that. Could that cause what the truck is doing?

Alright a little update on the symptoms.. Right after I started this thread, the truck stopped doing this completely. It has been running like a champ, so I thought cool maybe it stopped. Well, it came back and its much worse. Yesterday, I did the usual, started up the truck and had it idling for 3-4 minutes. It was pretty cold, so I held it at about 1200-1400 rpm's for a minute to help warm it up. I put it into drive, and the truck shut off. Started it back up, and put it back up around 1200 and then it started to sputter and cut in and out like before, and then died. I waited a few minutes, then tried to start it again, and it wouldn't start twice. So, after a while I came back out and it started right up, idled for about 3 minutes, then just shut off like I turned the key off. Started it up again, and then it ran for about 10 seconds and shut off. I waited another 20 minutes, started it up, and it ran just fine and I drove it around.

So today, I tried starting it up again. Was basically a complete repeat of yesterday, started up and ran fine. Gave it some throttle after a few minutes, sputtered a ton, and died. Started back up, died at idle. Wouldn't start, then started and died after idling for 5ish minutes (did this 3 times.) Several hours later, I went out and drove it around the black and it ran flawlessly. Also, when the truck starts up I am getting a TON of white smoke coming out of the pipes.

This is really starting to piss me off. I've talked to a few more people and they all have different suggestions. I've heard the following: injector(s) going out, leaking injectors, bad glow plugs, and bad GPR. Some seem like they make sense, and some don't, but maybe I am wrong. Could this be the CPS? I talked to a guy at Ford and he said it might be the CPS but he didn't think so. And unfortunately, I have no money right now that I can spend on the truck. So, I need to be really careful when buying parts. Any other ideas as to what this might be? It has definitely gotten worse...

Eric
1995 F250 XLT 4x4 E40D

Current Mods: TW tuned, 3/8" trans. lines, BTS VB, Tru-Cool 40k cooler, 6637 Intake, 3" DP, 5" Aussies, Isspro EV2's, smoked tails/heads and 35w/5000k HID's, GM tow mirrors.
Future Mods:Rosewood Stage 2's, D66 with WW2, Intercooler, E-Fuel, T-500, SAS.

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post #8 of 10 Old 12-16-2012, 03:29 AM
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The CPS is likely bad. It probably a cheap parts store CPS. Get the Ford one. Its like $25-30 at the dealer. 10mm socket and it slides out.
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post #9 of 10 Old 12-16-2012, 09:47 AM
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i don't know crap about why your truck is not a happy camper but would the chip do it?

1995 F350 XLT|DRW|7.3L Powerstroke|1.0 turbo|3" Diamond Eye Downpipe|Straight Piped|EBPV delete|DIY 6637|RiffRaff turbo inlet boot|203* thermostat|IDM mod|CCV|Built E4OD|Derale Trans Pan|Trans Temp Gauge|Explorer RAP RKE. Traded for a chevy

2007 F350 Lariat 6.0 . under the knife already
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post #10 of 10 Old 12-16-2012, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies.

You know, I'm not really sure. I'm going to try the CPS today since its the simplest and cheapest fix and go from there. Hopefully that does it. If not, I'll look into the chip and everything else.

Eric
1995 F250 XLT 4x4 E40D

Current Mods: TW tuned, 3/8" trans. lines, BTS VB, Tru-Cool 40k cooler, 6637 Intake, 3" DP, 5" Aussies, Isspro EV2's, smoked tails/heads and 35w/5000k HID's, GM tow mirrors.
Future Mods:Rosewood Stage 2's, D66 with WW2, Intercooler, E-Fuel, T-500, SAS.

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