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post #1 of 18 Old 11-04-2012, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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Completely Reseal

Okay everyone, I want to completely reseal my engine... I mean everything. I am talking piston rings, hpop rings, crankcase, turbo, heck! Even the oil drain seal. I want to reseal the tranny also, how much do you all think this will cost? Where can I buy all of this? I am in school right now, but once I get out I am going to buy a beater just to get around and pull my engine. I want to make this truck bulletproof. She isn't leaking too bad right now, but I am burning up oil from the piston rings going out. I'm talking a couple quarts every thousand miles. Any help is appreciated!


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post #2 of 18 Old 11-04-2012, 11:52 AM
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How many miles? When a stroke burns oil you can usually fix it with injector o-rings. If the piston rings are shot then you are looking at a rebuild

96 F250 PSD 3''DP 4'' ATS EXHAUST 6637 TS-6 5-SPEED LUK CONVERSION INTERCOOLER PROPANE 4'' LIFT 35X18'S
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post #3 of 18 Old 11-04-2012, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by desertdeer View Post
How many miles? When a stroke burns oil you can usually fix it with injector o-rings. If the piston rings are shot then you are looking at a rebuild
Well... It has 180,000 miles but it had been sitting in a field for 2 years without running before I got my hands on it... It isn't injector o-rings, I just purchased stage one's about a month ago. I know those are low miles. But I'm definitely not going to go with a rebuild! I would rather pull the whole engine and reseal everything than purchase a rebuild. Have you heard otherwise about resealing though?


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post #4 of 18 Old 11-04-2012, 12:32 PM
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Why would you go through the trouble of pulling the pistons and rods out and not replace the bearings, your right there, and entire rebuild kit can be got for $1200-$1400 and has everything you will need to "reseal" your engine, plus new pistons, bearings

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post #5 of 18 Old 11-04-2012, 12:54 PM
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With 180k on the engine unless it has been severely abused I wouldn't pull the engine to install piston rings or anything else for that matter. You can't just pull pistons, and install new rings. At minimum the cylinders will need to be honed and checked for roundness and taper which means pulling the crank or the first time you start it you will be shortening the life of the bearings from all the honing grit. You cannot install new rings in a less than perfect cylinder and expect them to seal, ever! I would just fix any external leaks, check the turbo, and go down the road with it.

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1.0 turbo housing, 203* t-stat, diy 6637, 4" exhaust
Diy intercooled, 6.0 fan, Diy 140v Idm, Isspro Ev gauges
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post #6 of 18 Old 11-04-2012, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ctd12valve95 View Post
Why would you go through the trouble of pulling the pistons and rods out and not replace the bearings, your right there, and entire rebuild kit can be got for $1200-$1400 and has everything you will need to "reseal" your engine, plus new pistons, bearings
My mistake I thought he meant a whole rebuilt engine! Really though? I can get new pistons in the kit for $1200-$1400?...


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post #7 of 18 Old 11-04-2012, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 1Dieselman View Post
With 180k on the engine unless it has been severely abused I wouldn't pull the engine to install piston rings or anything else for that matter. You can't just pull pistons, and install new rings. At minimum the cylinders will need to be honed and checked for roundness and taper which means pulling the crank or the first time you start it you will be shortening the life of the bearings from all the honing grit. You cannot install new rings in a less than perfect cylinder and expect them to seal, ever! I would just fix any external leaks, check the turbo, and go down the road with it.
That makes sense. I just really don't know how I have so much blow-by with a truck that has 180,000 miles....


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post #8 of 18 Old 11-04-2012, 01:38 PM
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Try running some atf in the fuel to free up any rings that may be stuck from it sitting for so long

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post #9 of 18 Old 11-04-2012, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95Strokeee View Post
That makes sense. I just really don't know how I have so much blow-by with a truck that has 180,000 miles....


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Does the blow by go away when you raise the rpm's off of idle? I would check the exhaust side of the turbo to see if it is oily, wiped out turbo seals will go through a lot of oil. I would also do a compression and or leak down test before determining that the engine is hurt.

Jack
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1.0 turbo housing, 203* t-stat, diy 6637, 4" exhaust
Diy intercooled, 6.0 fan, Diy 140v Idm, Isspro Ev gauges
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post #10 of 18 Old 11-04-2012, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 1Dieselman View Post
Does the blow by go away when you raise the rpm's off of idle? I would check the exhaust side of the turbo to see if it is oily, wiped out turbo seals will go through a lot of oil. I would also do a compression and or leak down test before determining that the engine is hurt.
It's a steady steam or mist from the dipstick. The RPM's don't matter


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