Oil Change help - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Powerstroke.org is the premier Diesel Truck Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 10-18-2012, 05:35 PM
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 

Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 5
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Oil Change help

I have searched high and low. I am looking for assistance finding a how to on changing oil on a 1995 F250 7.3. Realize it is a noob question, but I am new to diesels. Changed oil for years on my other vehicles. If you all could point me in the right direction I would appreciate it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old 10-18-2012, 05:54 PM
Premium Member
 

Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Durand, IL
Posts: 595
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Drain the oil, replace the filter, and fill it up agian. I always fill up the new filter with oil before I put it on. It takes about 3.5 gal. Oh and it is helpful to poke a hole in the old oil filter to drain the oil out first, holds quite a bit and can make a mess if it is full.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3  
Old 10-18-2012, 05:55 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 3,068
Thanks: 2
Thanked 72 Times in 70 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Same as any other truck. Except you need a BIG drain pan and a LOT of oil. Remove drain plug from oil pan. Aprx. 12-14 quarts will drain out. Replace plug, remove oil filter, pour a quart or so of fresh oil in new oil filter (put some oil on the gasket) and install. Pour remainder of 14 quarts into filler hole on valve cover. Open cold beverage.

Option (and you'll get lots of opinions on this...) - remove the plug on the top of the HPOP reservoir (rectangular thing on front top of engine, under the "Darth Vader" cover if you have one). Drop a small tube in down to the bottom and use a siphon and siphon out that quart of oil. Replace with a fresh quart. This oil mixes with the rest of the oil at all times, so you do NOT _need_ to do this. It's not specifically done to benefit the high-pressure hydraulics. The only gain is that you get one more quart of old dirty oil out at each oil change. So if you opt to do it, that makes 15 quarts.

And in case you don't know already, it must be heavy-duty diesel engine oil. Oil for gasser cars will not suffice with our oil doing double duty (lubrication and hydraulics).
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4  
Old 10-18-2012, 05:58 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: The great state of Warshington
Posts: 889
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Other than the "nipple vs nut" this should have everything you need to know.
As mentioned previously, if you take a nail and puncture a hole (or multiple holes) in the base of the filter it will allow the oil to drain before removing the filter. These buggers are heavy, and you wouldn't be the first one to end up with two quarts of oil on your chest when it slips out of your hand. Pre-filling the new filter isn't necessary, but I always do it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5  
Old 10-18-2012, 07:17 PM
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 

Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 5
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Thanks all for the help. Should be easy enough.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6  
Old 10-18-2012, 07:42 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: The great state of Warshington
Posts: 889
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Longest part is waiting for the oil to drain.
While you're doing maintenance, it might be a good time to change the fuel filter, pump the tie-rod ends, ball-joints and u-joints full of new grease and rotate the tires.
I typically do a fuel filter every other oil change (8-10k) and a tire rotation/lubrication every oil change. All told it takes me about an hour, and that is with nothing more than a bottle jack, two jack stands and hand tools.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7  
Old 10-18-2012, 08:10 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 461
Thanks: 1
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
+1 on punching a hole in the filter!! I use a center punch or similar, and put the hole as much in the center as I can, keeps from slinging oil out when you spin the filter off.

And if you choose to fill the new filter before you install it (I believe it is a good idea) be prepared to fill it a couple of times before the oil seeps through the filter. Just don't over fill it because a new filter full of clean oil is just as heavy going on as an old filter with dirty oil is coming off.


Quote:
Originally Posted by backwoodsboy View Post
I typically do a fuel filter every other oil change
So, how do you get the fuel filter out without all of the filtered crap rinsing off and settling to the bottom of the bowl?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8  
Old 10-19-2012, 12:47 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: The great state of Warshington
Posts: 889
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I usually only let the bowl drain for a few seconds, then pull the filter. Once the filter is out, drain it completely. This should rinse out any sediment that may have accumilated on the filter. With the filter out, I refill about half way with either ATF or gasoline (either will work, just looking for something with a solvent property) and let it sit while I go about another task (like draining the oil). Before installing new filter, drain the ATF/gaslone and refill bowl half way with either fresh ATF or Seafoam. Reinstall new filter and fire her up.
Most guys just drain and install a fresh filter with no issues. I like to make sure there is no sediment at the bottom of the bowl, hence the extra step. Running concentrated ATF or Seafoam directly in the bowl gives the injectors a nice purge. Can't say I notice a difference every time I do it, but i certainly noticed a difference before/after the first time as far as injector noise.
Happy to say I believe I've done my last filter change with a fuel bowl however, as the truck is getting E-fuel and a WVO conversion this winter.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9  
Old 10-19-2012, 04:19 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Evans,Ga.
Posts: 1,730
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Good post,never thought about cleaning the bowl,I swear by Seafoam,one of my tanks fuel gauges quit working so I put in a can of SF with a full tank and it cured the problem .
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10  
Old 10-19-2012, 04:47 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Wilmington Island, GA
Posts: 731
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by backwoodsboy View Post
I usually only let the bowl drain for a few seconds, then pull the filter. Once the filter is out, drain it completely. This should rinse out any sediment that may have accumilated on the filter. With the filter out, I refill about half way with either ATF or gasoline (either will work, just looking for something with a solvent property) and let it sit while I go about another task (like draining the oil). Before installing new filter, drain the ATF/gaslone and refill bowl half way with either fresh ATF or Seafoam. Reinstall new filter and fire her up.
Most guys just drain and install a fresh filter with no issues. I like to make sure there is no sediment at the bottom of the bowl, hence the extra step. Running concentrated ATF or Seafoam directly in the bowl gives the injectors a nice purge. Can't say I notice a difference every time I do it, but i certainly noticed a difference before/after the first time as far as injector noise.
Happy to say I believe I've done my last filter change with a fuel bowl however, as the truck is getting E-fuel and a WVO conversion this winter.
Way to go!
E fuel and WVO rock

My fuel filter changes are awesomely simple and quick, spin off, spin on
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 10:50 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
Garage Plus, Vendor Tools vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.

vB.Sponsors