**PERFORMANCE & FUEL EFFICIENCY MODS ONLY post for OBS 94-98 7.3's** - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 10-04-2012, 03:12 PM
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Smile **PERFORMANCE & FUEL EFFICIENCY MODS ONLY post for OBS 94-98 7.3's**


Hey everyone, I'm new and been looking at some of the posts about mods and trying to read through a lot of them and noticed that there is "sort of" a thread/post about modding your trucks but it isn't specific to performance mods only. Although there are some good threads with some of this stuff, weeding through them can be a pain in the arse since a lot of them also have other stuff like interior mods with cosmetic changes or lift kits and paint jobs and etc.. For me, I am not looking for that stuff and ONLY WANT performance info.

So........

I thought I would start a new post for those (like me) that may be interested in what to do to your 94-98 OBS 7.3's to get more power out of them and better fuel economy BUT WANT TO SKIP the other stuff like what I mentioned above.

So, for this post, I would like everyone to post what they have done (or heard can be done) to improve performance and gain horsepower and torque and also what can be done to improve fuel efficiency (mpg) down the road. And to clerify, power and fuel efficiency do NOT have to be the same thing nor can they both be easily achieved together and I understand this. But, if you've got tips for one or the other or both that can be had together, please share.

Please do NOT include cosmetic mods or lift kits since those aren't really performance related UNLESS you truly do have or know of a lift kit that actually improves performance. Improving "ride quality" isn't really much of a performance enhancement and is more of a "luxury" for your own personal preference (in my opinion). I have nothing against these things but just want to limit what we're referring to in these threads/posts to help people that are looking mainly and/or ONLY for the "seat of your pants" improvements.

I guess the type of performance I'm talking about is mainly for hauling stuff down the road such as trailers or heavy equipment.

So, if you've already posted some stuff in other areas, please do so again but keep it mainly to the engine / drivetrain if it helps. Different rear / front axle ratios and tire sizes can be posted to help but we should probably all know that changing these will improve or decrease overall power and fuel mileage. But if you've got combinations that have worked well for you, please include them for our info.

Please post pictures when possible to help newbs like me and also post prices, tools, and time needed to complete the project from start to finish if possible. Even if a mod mainly only takes time to do such as increasing the voltage output of an IDM to 140 volts (as opposed to 100 -120) to increase the power to and out of your injectors, even though it's mainly a $5 part inside the IDM that needs soldering but takes a few hours to do, please list things like this and time involved (roughly) to help those that would like to improve their trucks. The cheaper the mod, the better.

Oh yeah, if you could, please post what the mod will help with and how much. Such as - making a "do-it-yourself" open air breather mod will increase your power by 30-40 hp and 50-65 tq. and increase fuel economy between 1-3 mpg (average). If you have documentation of the added improvement, please provide that but if you're using your experience and numbers, please be as accurate as possible and don't fudge just to make things seem better than they really are. It would be nice to know what each step of a mod would do to increase power / efficiency so that if you did 2 or 3 or 4 mods together, you would have a good idea what you should get out of doing a "mod project."

Anyway, I hope this comes to good use for those of you like me that are looking for only performance mods.

Last edited by eldridge201; 10-04-2012 at 05:55 PM.
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Old 10-04-2012, 04:07 PM
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Personally I would argue that a Performance setup and a MPG setup are not the same thing. That aside here I go (sorry for the large pics):

I suggest a mandatory upgrade of a complete exhaust (including cat removal and downpipe), aftermarket air filter, and a set of gauges to watch your baby work. This does not gain HP per say but it does free the robbed horses from under your hood.

[LIGHT MODS]
For better low end grunt I recommend a 1.0 turbine housing when all else is pretty much stock:



an intercooler for the haulers on here (denser air is more powerful air but doesn't do anything while stopped):



And a CV delete/reroute. No sense in trying to burn bad air:






[MODERATE MODS]

TS or equivalent chip (not an EDGE and try to avoid canned tunes)(companies claim as much as 70-120 HP gains with a chip but the disclamer is usually "with supporting Mods"), bigger HPOP to supply a higher more stable volume and flow, and need to have the auto trans power matched for the added stress

Upgraded turbo (D66, good to 450HP):



Bigger injectors (matched to the turbo):



Oversized Alternator (more of a reliability/demand mod):



E-Fuel for a consistent volume and pressure (think people are seeing a good 10HP on the top end as they don't run out of fuel anymore):





[HAULING MODS]

1000# overloads for the front:



5000# overload leafs and 5000# air bags to smooth out the loaded ride:



Air system to run power tools on the road or to fill tires:


Last edited by BigFuel; 10-04-2012 at 04:16 PM.
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:05 PM
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How much did that air system set you back$$$$

And are there any cheep ways to put a intercooler setup on a 95?

Last edited by Lyons17r; 10-04-2012 at 05:09 PM.
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:25 PM
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For fuel mileage and performance gains, their is a fine line but there is a line.

-down pipe and full exhaust... I recomend a TYMAR downpipe from dale @ tymar performance

-intake (even a DIY tymar knock off) with a 6637 filter from NAPA and a piece of pipe

-moded IDM (which can be DIY if u can solder a board)

-electric fuel for effiency purposes. (Can also be a DIY job, look in the 7.3 tech section for a few write ups and material lists)

-stage one injectors, go new, rebuilt, or budget build... what ever your wallet can afford

-custom tuned 6 position TS chip, from tony wildman, PHP, gearhead, swamps, beans.....ect.

-GAUGES! Are a must..... MUST! U can get a 4 piller gauge pod from paul at complete performance, get a 3 piller pod, or do an edge CTS for just the guages, do not get the one with tunes unless u get the one from PHP with custom tunes.

-inercooler to keep egts in check, not a must but to get full potential out of injectors it will be required and if u plan on doing any kind of towing.

-all of this with 3.55 gears and stock size tires, if u go to larger tires as in 35s or bigger, have the 4.10s

-I'm prolly missing something, but can think of it.
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:56 PM
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Big fuel,
I edited my original post to try to clerify the power and efficiency setups as NOT being the same thing because I wasn't trying to say they were but since you brought it up, I thought I would mentioned that my post is not to start a debate on one or the other but merely request mods to try to improve one or the other or both.

Anyway, great info and pics. Keep em' comin folks.
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lyons17r View Post
How much did that air system set you back$$$$

And are there any cheep ways to put a intercooler setup on a 95?
10 gallon tank off of a wrecked Pete $20. Air line about a dollar a foot, cheaper if you buy more then less. PTC fittings can be bought cheap but you get what you pay for, mine average $10/fitting but they are all brass with no wearable parts (need about 20, depends on what you are doing and how you route them). Controller in the cab $80 to build your own $150 to buy a ready system off summit. The electric solenoids are the killer. Again, you can get cheap solenoids but I got lab grade, all brass, any environment solenoids at the cheapest I could find them $50/ea. you need two per [EDIT] tire (one to let air in one to let air out). Then various brass couplers and fittings. The pumps I have are from Viair and come as a twin kit for air aged low riders appropriately called the 444c kit. $300, sometimes cheaper. I can go from dead empty to a compressed 10 gallons of air in four minutes. Lastly you need a 80 amp switch to turn them on.

Last edited by BigFuel; 10-04-2012 at 06:07 PM.
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eldridge201 View Post
Big fuel,
I edited my original post to try to clerify the power and efficiency setups as NOT being the same thing because I wasn't trying to say they were but since you brought it up, I thought I would mentioned that my post is not to start a debate on one or the other but merely request mods to try to improve one or the other or both.

Anyway, great info and pics. Keep em' comin folks.
No worries bud, when all I had was my Banks kit I was making 24mpg. Now that I have gone the more power route I'm getting about 17.2mpgs.
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Old 10-10-2012, 05:55 PM
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On the cv delete where do u run the hose to? I noticing mine still goes in the air intake so if it helps ill move it.
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:18 PM
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Btw when you do most of these mods your mpg will go down...because you wont be able to take you foot outta the throttle
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratt396 View Post
On the cv delete where do u run the hose to? I noticing mine still goes in the air intake so if it helps ill move it.
There are four schools of thought on this.
1) Vent to atmosphere
2) Vent into exhaust
3) Run the tube to a catch can mounted on the frame rail
4) A 'closed system' which vents to a catch can(see above ^) and then back into the air intake.

I have my vented to atmosphere, and dumps about 1ft after the cab beneath the bed. Some people run theirs right to the back of the truck and dump by the rear axle. The issue I saw with this system is that the frame rails are higher under the bed than they are under the cab. You DO NOT want any low spots in the tube, as this will create an area for oil/water to accumilate and pressurize the system. I can post some pictures of my system if you want, or a quick google search will bring up plenty. If you buy 15ft of 5/8" heater hose, some hose clamps and a 5/8" to 5/8" heater coupling you can experiment with what setup works best for you. You'll also need a way to close the vent into the intake. A 5/8" heater cap (basically a thick rubber condom) and hose clamps will work. I chose to remove the vent all together (one phillips screw and some rtv is all that holds it on) and replace it with a blocker plate and some rtv to eliminate the restriction.
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