Question about e-fuel filter bases - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 22 Old 08-19-2012, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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Question about e-fuel filter bases

I would think that they would be common sense on how to hook up. I am running the 4770 base, and the stanadyne fm100.

For the 4770 does it matter where I run inlet and outlets? I would assume that one would use an x pattern instead of straight across. My thought is that doing this would bypass the filter. Here is how I have chosen to run it.


I would assume for the Stanadyne which has a 1,2,3,4 with no arrows would be the same x pattern. Is this correct?

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post #2 of 22 Old 08-20-2012, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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Bump? Am I understanding this wrong and can use any direction/port that I want to?

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post #3 of 22 Old 08-20-2012, 04:16 PM
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The biggest thing to worry about is that the "IN" side feeds the outside of the filter element and the "OUT" side comes from the center of the filter. You have your diagram correct, the 4770 has 4 ports to keep things convenient for your install. Do not use Teflon tape on any fitting where there is a pump/compressor involved.

[EDIT: Just to clarify, the 4770 has only one inlet (arrows pointing at each other) and one outlet (arrows pointing away from each other). You just have to pick which direction you want your hoses to point.]

Matt
'97
-Bean's: 160/100 (FF Injectors), 2/ 6-POS chips (TW & Beans tunes), Overboost controller, E-Fuel
-BANKs: downpipe, full exhaust, gauges, intercooler
-Irate: T-4 kit, IC pipes, 3" Irate Plenums, BASB Turbo
-Stage II trans.
-Mag-Hytec trans. and pumpkin covers
-6637, CCV, IDM, 6.0 Fan, 49-Federal PCM swap, MAP line Mod
-370 Amp alt., 40k trans cooler, ADRENALINE PUMP
-twin on-board air w/ 10 gal. tank

-Oh, and a 2015 F350 6.7L DRW 4x4

Re-pinning '97 Cali PCM to Federal

Last edited by BigFuel; 08-20-2012 at 04:25 PM.
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post #4 of 22 Old 08-20-2012, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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Fantastic that is what I was hoping. My worry was just cirumventing the filter media and running straight through. Glad to hear I was correct. Based on that assumption I'd guess that the FM 100 is the same, although it only has 1,2,3,4.

Thanks a bunch for your help I was just getting worried wondering.

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post #5 of 22 Old 08-20-2012, 07:19 PM
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No worries.

Matt
'97
-Bean's: 160/100 (FF Injectors), 2/ 6-POS chips (TW & Beans tunes), Overboost controller, E-Fuel
-BANKs: downpipe, full exhaust, gauges, intercooler
-Irate: T-4 kit, IC pipes, 3" Irate Plenums, BASB Turbo
-Stage II trans.
-Mag-Hytec trans. and pumpkin covers
-6637, CCV, IDM, 6.0 Fan, 49-Federal PCM swap, MAP line Mod
-370 Amp alt., 40k trans cooler, ADRENALINE PUMP
-twin on-board air w/ 10 gal. tank

-Oh, and a 2015 F350 6.7L DRW 4x4

Re-pinning '97 Cali PCM to Federal
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post #6 of 22 Old 08-20-2012, 07:38 PM
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Just curious - how do you plan to adapt to the banjo housing in the valley? Considering e-fuel myself...

1996 F250 XLT
Mods: 6637 filter, 3" diamond eye downpipe-4" exhaust, tru cool 4921, webasto tsl-17 engine heater
Wish List: PHP/TW/or BDP tunes, gauges, rosewood stg 1's, terminator t500 hpop
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post #7 of 22 Old 08-20-2012, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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I really wanted to go from a 12 ORBF to 1/2 nptm, and then 1/2 female to 3/8 barb.

I found the part for like $5 dollars, but shipping was going to be $20 dollars for that one little fitting. I said eff it and went through a different supplier who had the same fitting but it went to 3/4, and from there I am going 3/4 female to 1/2 male, and then 1/2 to 3/8 barb.

I am going to be making up kits (without regulator or fuel pump), with a nice bracket and rock shield, and the electrical. I'm gonna do a nice step by step guide, and probably a video of the install. Gonna use cat filters. However, I'm not a vendor so I won't be selling any until such time. Probably start selling them on ebay while I wait for that as I hear it can take a while. Should come in around $400 or so. According to market research that I have done there is a big demand for a kit including all the fittings and some of the leg work done, as regulators and fuel pumps are easy to find. Plus it gives the purchaser some leeway in choosing a less spendy option or a more spendy option than I have decided to use.

I've spent easily 20+ hours sourcing parts to ensure that I am getting the best deals and about the same time designing how I want it on my truck.

I was hoping to use 5/16 for most of the project, but in terms of my adaptation to the SD fuel pump it fits up to the quick lock barb and then stops. So my plan is to try and go over that with 5/16 or just run everything to 3/8, but it would require spending $60 dollars on new fuel injection hose.

ETA: I just tried and 3/8s fits perfect over the boss on the SD fuel pump. 5/16 double clamped is also really strong on there. I tried really pulling on it and it didn't even move.


Last edited by glovemeister; 08-20-2012 at 09:11 PM.
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post #8 of 22 Old 08-21-2012, 07:00 AM
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awesome, looking forward to the in-depth write-up and updates!

1996 F250 XLT
Mods: 6637 filter, 3" diamond eye downpipe-4" exhaust, tru cool 4921, webasto tsl-17 engine heater
Wish List: PHP/TW/or BDP tunes, gauges, rosewood stg 1's, terminator t500 hpop
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post #9 of 22 Old 08-21-2012, 08:25 AM Thread Starter
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Glad to hear it. All of the writeups I have studied are pretty good. There is some stuff I have to learn through either trial and error and questions on this forum and others.

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post #10 of 22 Old 08-29-2012, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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This question is not directly pertaining to the bases, but the wiring. I figured it would be best to use the same thread.

So for my wiring I plan to do it like this, pump grounded to efuel mount. Power wire ran up loom in frame then to pole 87 on relay.
86 on relay is going to ground in engine bay.
Pole 30 will have power from fused wire from battery.

Since I am planning on an inertia switch and an oil pressure switch, this is where it confuses me. I assume I could come off of pole 85 onto the relay, use the power wire on the IS, and then ground that, then I could run that into c on the OPS(oil pressure switch). Wouldn't it be feasible to run power from ignition source in fuse box to it?

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