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Old 04-01-2012, 06:37 AM
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Cold starts

This is really getting out of control. I've replaced the glow plugs and gpr in the last 6 weeks and it's still not wanting to start on its own with out being plugged in, it was only about 40 last night! Lots and lots of white smoke while turning it over. Just fired up after about ten minutes of trying. Wth???

I just saw the next two threads down are discussing the same issues do I will add that both the batteries and the starter are only ten months old. I will check the connections on the batteries an see if continuity is good between both of them. Any other ideas?

Last edited by creekfreak; 04-01-2012 at 06:56 AM.
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Old 04-01-2012, 12:18 PM
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Check your cables all the way down to the starter! If it doesn't wanna crank real fast then I would say your starter is done!
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Old 04-01-2012, 12:41 PM
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What about your UVCH? How long are you letting them run before trying to start? I don't usually go by the idiot light on the dash, and wait a bit longer.
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Old 04-01-2012, 12:50 PM
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What oil are you running? And also I'm told by my customers after I do a Idm mod on there truck it starts easier
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Old 04-01-2012, 12:57 PM
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I usually don't go by the idiot wts light when it's cold but wait another 15-20sec to make sure (I think) the gp's are hot. Oil, 15/30 which I guess could be the culprit too but I can't get 5/30 in my town
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Old 04-01-2012, 01:01 PM
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You wanna run 5/40 t6 synthetic rottela that will help greatly if you can't get it order it. Walmart Carey's it and almost every major parts store 15/30 isn't thick enough when hot in my opion
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Old 04-01-2012, 01:09 PM
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The checklist goes like so:
GPR. Manually check it, even if it's new to makes sure it's staying on for a long time and is getting the proper voltage.
GPs. You can ohm them out through the UVCH.
UVCH. If they ohm bad, then you could have bad UVCH connections. Check for chaffing, burnt pins, etc.
Batteries. 850CCA minimum. Good conecctions, clean, clean also. Cables good. Grounds good. Starter connections good.
Oil. For a 6.0, a xW-30 would be ok, but a 7.3 needs a xW-40. 15W-40 is normal but thick. 10W-40 is thinner when cold, but still provides correct high heat protection. 5W-40 synthetic is best. Superior cold flow and heat protection.
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Old 04-01-2012, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesilvas View Post
The checklist goes like so:
GPR. Manually check it, even if it's new to makes sure it's staying on for a long time and is getting the proper voltage.
GPs. You can ohm them out through the UVCH.
UVCH. If they ohm bad, then you could have bad UVCH connections. Check for chaffing, burnt pins, etc.
Batteries. 850CCA minimum. Good conecctions, clean, clean also. Cables good. Grounds good. Starter connections good.
Oil. For a 6.0, a xW-30 would be ok, but a 7.3 needs a xW-40. 15W-40 is normal but thick. 10W-40 is thinner when cold, but still provides correct high heat protection. 5W-40 synthetic is best. Superior cold flow and heat protection.
Great info thanks. Now for the GPR voltage....What should that be and at where/when? uvch ohms, what resistance am i looking for here?
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Old 04-02-2012, 02:29 PM
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Not starting at 40* IS NOT a thick oil problem, something is flat wrong with it.
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Old 04-02-2012, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creekfreak View Post
Great info thanks. Now for the GPR voltage....What should that be and at where/when? uvch ohms, what resistance am i looking for here?
Read - Troubleshooting GPR & GP's

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fordman247365 View Post
Not starting at 40* IS NOT a thick oil problem, something is flat wrong with it.
I know, but just thought I'd address it. That's why it's at the bottom of the list.
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