turbo removal / ebpv delete questions - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 03-15-2012, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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turbo removal / ebpv delete questions

ok so quick questions -
1- is there a gasket that i need to replace between the rear up pipe and turbo when i take it off?
2- what is the exact size freeze plug to use after gutting the flap / valve?
3- what is the exact size tap people used to tap the hole where the actuator arm was? size and thread

is there any real designated and in depth "how to " section floating around here? i really feel like i spend hours searching and reading and still dont get answers sometimes. i also dont undertand how 2 people can do the same thing and have to use different freeze plug sizes for the same holes.. ive searched sticky posts, but find more unanswered questions..
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post #2 of 13 Old 03-15-2012, 06:58 PM
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There is a gasket between the up pipes and the turbo, I replaced mine since I was already ordering o-rings I just added that in too, not real expensive.

I don't exactly remember what size plug I used I tried looking it up and found a 20mm plug. Don't hold me to it, I do know it is exteremely close to that size though.

I replaced my pedistal with a deleted pedistal, I wouldn't like the idea of trying to tap the old pedistal, not that much material there, just my opinion though.

It really isn't too bad of a job. I pulled my turbo, took the turbo off of the pedistal, took the housing off with the flapper in it(not the whole exhaust housing, just the part the down pipe connects to), grind off the rivets(I used a torch), once you get the flapper off, pull the rod out and plug up the hole with the freeze plug. If you haven't started to pull the turbo yet, spray up the bolts where the up pipes meet the turbo. This is how I deleted mine anyway, hope it helps.

My Truck
97' F-250HD. ECLB. 66,000 miles. 7.3. E40D. 6637 Filter. 5" Exhaust. Deleted EBPV. CCV mod. 45 gal. Transferflow Rear Tank. Stock for now. Dana 60 in the works.
My Dad's
97' F-250HD. ECLB. 18x,xxx miles. 7.3. E40D. 6637 Filter. 4" Exhaust. TW Tunes. Work Truck.
97' F-250HD. ECLB. 150,000 miles. 7.3. E40D. 4" Exhaust. Work Truck.


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post #3 of 13 Old 03-15-2012, 08:43 PM
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The plug size you need is 3/4 i used a .76 which was close enough and you can see it was a tight fit. I dont remember the tap size i used but if you go to 7.3 mod help there is a video on how to gut the pedistal and he says what size to use
[IMG][/IMG]

tony

1997 F250 4.10's
D60 swap/mag-hytec rear diff. cover
ts 6 pos./Autometers
melling LPOP/T-500 HPOP
D66 w/1.0 housing and WW2
160/80 rosewoods/bellowed up-pipes
08 king ranch seats/center console
south bend clutch


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post #4 of 13 Old 03-16-2012, 08:42 AM
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Is there any benefit to deleting the EBPV if it isn't acting up?

1995 F250 ECLB ZF5 4X4:
3" DP to 4" Exhaust
Tymar Intake
CCV Mod
Valair Clutch
Gauges
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post #5 of 13 Old 03-16-2012, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jameson Bearden View Post
Is there any benefit to deleting the EBPV if it isn't acting up?
It gets rid of one more potential oil leak and i saw a slight drop in egt's

tony

1997 F250 4.10's
D60 swap/mag-hytec rear diff. cover
ts 6 pos./Autometers
melling LPOP/T-500 HPOP
D66 w/1.0 housing and WW2
160/80 rosewoods/bellowed up-pipes
08 king ranch seats/center console
south bend clutch


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post #6 of 13 Old 03-16-2012, 09:04 AM
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gotcha, thanks

1995 F250 ECLB ZF5 4X4:
3" DP to 4" Exhaust
Tymar Intake
CCV Mod
Valair Clutch
Gauges
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post #7 of 13 Old 03-16-2012, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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ive read of people using different size taps, and freeze out plugs also.. the two size freeze out plugs i come across are 20mm and 3/4. the people that used 20mm i have read needed to file it down a bit, and 3/4" is actually a tiny bit smaller so im assuming thats the perfect size.. i got both just in case. i have also read of people taping the holes with a 1/4" NPT tap, and using the 1/4" plugs instead of freeze out plugs all together..
i have also read the same person just drilled out the hole from the actuator and tapped that hole with a 1/4" NPT tap too... i bought the tap (cause its not in the set i have) from napa , along with enought 1/4" NPT plugs for all 3 holes if i decided to go that route.. at least this way i have otpions now since im basically stuck till this gets put back together. i also got the gasket from ford for about $10 that goes between the up pipe and turbo.
i bought a set of metric flex head ratcheting wrenches, and the 13 , and 15 mm swivel sockets recomended on another write up.. i have regular stright ratching wrenches, a set of reg wrenches, and a set of reg stubby ones. im hoping there is nothing else i need.. oh - and i have the o-rings too..
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post #8 of 13 Old 03-16-2012, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95redrifle View Post
It gets rid of one more potential oil leak and i saw a slight drop in egt's
off topic, but i noticed you have an fpr shim on your list of mods.. just wondering if that helped to smooth out your idle at all..
i put on a new fuel pump and rebuilt the filter housing a few weeks ago. the nite i put the pump in and drove around, the truck idled so smooth it was mindblowing.. the next day i was back to shaking at red lights.. so any difference?
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post #9 of 13 Old 03-16-2012, 05:56 PM
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It made a difference for me but my spring was worn out so it was like putting a new one in. Helped smooth out the idle and gave it a small amount of "pep" if you will

tony

1997 F250 4.10's
D60 swap/mag-hytec rear diff. cover
ts 6 pos./Autometers
melling LPOP/T-500 HPOP
D66 w/1.0 housing and WW2
160/80 rosewoods/bellowed up-pipes
08 king ranch seats/center console
south bend clutch


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post #10 of 13 Old 03-17-2012, 09:58 AM
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Well if I ever get mine back from the tranny shop I may buy a delete pedestal and swap them out..It doesn't really get cold enough in GA to need it.

1995 F250 ECLB ZF5 4X4:
3" DP to 4" Exhaust
Tymar Intake
CCV Mod
Valair Clutch
Gauges
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