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  #1  
Old 03-06-2012, 06:22 PM
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lemme tell ya something...

im about 10 minutes away from burning this f-ckin truck thanks to this dipstick flange kit..
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Old 03-06-2012, 06:28 PM
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What's wrong with the kit?
Did you drop the flange in the pan?
Get a bore scope with a grabber tool if you did, and take. Your. Time.
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Old 03-06-2012, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kctyphoon View Post
im about 10 minutes away from burning this f-ckin truck thanks to this dipstick flange kit..
Man that sucks!!! I've been debating on whether or not to tackle that project. The ever so slow leak hasn't progressed to the point of bothering me enough yet. Call Bob from dieselorings. I'm sure he would be more than happy to walk you through it. He's a super nice guy!
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Old 03-07-2012, 12:22 PM
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i finished it this morning ( i think ). i had to take off from work. anyway, the kit comes with a paper gasket for the pan side of the flange, a new flange nut, and flange sealant. started off bad just taking the starter off. theres two types, a 3 bolt and a 2 bolt. mine was replaced a few years ago and its a 3 bolt. the top bolt is hidden, and it literally took me about 20 min to try and find a combination of extensions that would work to reach it and still allow me to turn the bolt. i have 4 or 5 socket sets laying around, and i could NOT find a combo to work. finally wound up using a long, a short, and a ratcheting 3/8 breaker bar i had bought from harbor freight a few weeks ago.
the old flange nut was very tight and hard to get off. once i did get it off, swapping the o rings was pretty easy, but when it came time to thread on the new nut, this thing would not, not, NOT - thread on the inner part of the flange. everytime i would get half a turn on it, it would get very tight, and had to use channel locks to turn it. one full turn, it would come off again. mind you im laying on my back with drop lights and its not the most comfortable postion. finally got to the point where the threads on the new nut were starting break. so after i got out from under the truck i threw a few things and cursed plenty of times and just went to bed wondering wtf to do now.
wound up taking the old nut and cleaned the treads and pan side with a wire brush. got it started on, and was just as hard to turn on as it was to get off. luckily this one went back on. so no new nut, no paper gasket, no flange sealant ( which is how it is stock )... so everything is back together and im just waitin for someone to bring me new oil to start the truck..
so fingers are crossed.. hopefully it doesnt leak - if it does, then its staying that way i guess.. i did NOT cross thread the old nut.. i dont know what was up, but it refused to go on, and i cleaned all the treads before and during..

my advice to anyone thats gonna do this.. invest in a wide mouth adjustable wrench that will fit the flange nut. the channel locks worked, but its definately a PITA trying to work them with one hand and hold the inside part too. secondly - change the oil afterwards regardless. after all the fussing around and spraying and wiping cleaner everywhere i have no confidence that something didnt get in there. the brush the give you in the kit is insanely tight going in and out, so just to eliminate part of the wire brush from falling off inside.. but definately get an adjustable wrench.. you need large channel locks if nothing else, and they suck to use with the one hand.

Last edited by kctyphoon; 03-07-2012 at 01:09 PM.
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Old 03-07-2012, 01:07 PM
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well to the dealer it will be going.. what a waste of time and money. dont know why im suprised..
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Old 03-07-2012, 01:13 PM
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Leaked?
Don't let them tell you they have to pull the motor. I've seen multiple threads where the dealer quoted motor removal in the price. BUT, if the threads on the inner flange are messed up, they may just have to.
You could JB weld it.
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Old 03-07-2012, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fordman247365 View Post
Really funny since yesterday you were telling someone how easy this was.....
umm.. to be clear.. i SUGGESTED this instead of pulling the motor to fish something out, which is a choice i think 99% of all sane people would still make to not do all that work alone. he may have better luck than i did. secondly how nice of you to chime in on someone having a hard time.. i could comment on how retarded i think your interior looks but ill keep quiet.

ANYWAY - moving on here - after some digging it seems that is not that uncommon for people to have leak problems even using the kit i bought. international's kit includeds some sealant to throw on the outside which i might try.

other options - from what ive found the problem might be due to the inner flange being slightly warped, causing the round oring not to completely seal.
different oring
- Fel-Pro Gaskets 35346 Water Outlet Gasket - this is for an older caddy, but the edges are suppose to be rectangular instead of round and will allow an extra bit of flexing to conform to any imperfections.
different kit -
Dipstick Adapter Repair Kit
this kit does away with all factory parts, and seals to pan from the OUTSIDE with a double o ring seal. looks to be of great quality, but at $300 (thats not a typo) its a bit much, but definately a better optiong to pulling the pan off IMO. only thing im not crazy about is that installation calls FOR you to abandon the inner flange and just drop it in the pan. i guess it heavy enough to not cause any issue.

if nothing else at least there are some options, cause reading around on the forum most people just says the motor needs to be pulled if theres complications.
so tomorrow i will be pulling my digger derrick towing some 45' long telephone poles behind me (while im at work) to get a price from FORD to do this. ill post what they say. some sealant is in the near future, and maybe i will try it again with the other gasket once i get over the defeat.

Last edited by kctyphoon; 03-07-2012 at 07:23 PM.
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  #8  
Old 03-07-2012, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Fordman247365 View Post
Really funny since yesterday you were telling someone how easy this was.....
really? thanks for the help buddy.. and if you will go back and read, i didnt call the guy an idiot.. i did comment that i thought it was extremely excessive to resort to pulling a motor straight out of the gate to fish a clamp out of an oil pan, which by ford's billing standards is something like a 10 hour job in a professional shop. so yea, id take out the dipstick 10 more times over pulling the motor. remind me again though, the "kid" that i was giving advice to also said it was only gonna take him 2 hours correct?

you think my hard time was funny, i think your interior job is a joke.. so i guess that makes us even, and now you can move onto helping someone else.. btw - thanks for digging up and posting the links and alternative part numbers for anyone else that had the same issue... oh wait - that was me.. good thing you decided to stop in..

Last edited by kctyphoon; 03-07-2012 at 07:14 PM.
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  #9  
Old 03-07-2012, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Fordman247365 View Post
Just sayin.

I didnt mean to insinuate your situation was funny. I found it ironic that you said this job was easier than just pulling his engine. Yes I understand what you attempted to do is a VERY hard project, one that I would not attempt myself. Sorry if I offended you, and sorry I cant help you.


did you say, "easier than JUST pulling his motor" ??? um.. yes..

Last edited by kctyphoon; 03-07-2012 at 07:46 PM.
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  #10  
Old 03-07-2012, 08:03 PM
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I had the same problem. Turns out. The brush I used to hold the inner assy. had a few brisels hanging out and prevented the threads to catch. I do feel your pain. A simple job turned into me being pissed off, covered in oil, grease, sealant, dirt ect. of course I dropped the inner assy. in the pan more than once. ( I tied a lanyared to the end of the brush) But still a PITA. I think If I had to do it again I would try and find a magnet(big) to hold the inner assy to the pan. So far 500+ miles and no leak. Good luck
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