Stancor Relay on Cali model, with shunt - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 03-01-2012, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
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Stancor Relay on Cali model, with shunt

Alright guys so I just put my Stancor on. I ordered it from Complete Performance as they are sponsors on various PSD sites. Complete Performance

They run $65shipped and I got it here within I'd guess 3 or so days of payment.
I was getting a glowplug code, of no power to the left bank. P1396 to be exact. The code could be burnt into the PCM and with my stock relay it could have been supplying power, but I doubt it. I have all new glow plugs. I was getting lots of white smoke, and a rompy idle on the cold days and not starting on somd days until I went through a glow plug cycle or two (up to 2 minutes each). My guess was that the left bank wasn't getting warmed on the relay, thus displaying my code and causing my white smoke and rompy idle. I had no smoke whatsoever with my block heater in and I didn't even give the glow plugs time to start. So that is why I went to the Stancor, now on to the mod.

This is what you start out with, a stock relay. You'll notice on the lower side of my pictures you will find a metal piece, similar to a buss bar in a fuse panel. This is known as the "shunt" and is found on Cali models, which allows for diagnosing of glow plug related issues through the OBD port. Pretty handy I'd say.



The issue you run into is one fitting the shunt on the stancor, and two mounting the stancor as it is quite a bit larger.

Step one of any electrical work, remove power so disconnect both batteries.
When I did my method, I layed the stancor just like it should go and then disconnected the single large pole with one wire. I then loosely connected that to my Stancor. I then did the same with the two smaller terminals, again one at a time. I then moved onto the final terminal on the stock relay, that has the shunt attached to it and then one single wire above that, all on the same location. There was only one spot on the stancor where all this could go so I avoided any wiring dilemmas. I removed the left most hold down bolt (relay mounting bolt that goes right next to the lower edge of the shunt). I also un did the top terminal nut and slid the shunt off.

I finally disconnected the single stock relay mounting bolt. I simply pulled out the old relay and then mounted the Stancor. If you note, it sits at an angle that is ok and necessary to get the shunt on. I had to bend the shunt a bit so that it didn't hit the terminals of the smaller wires. I installed the shunt, checked for any contact anywhere, and your done.

If you are good with wiring doing it one at a time isn't probably necessary I prefer to do things that way so I don't get confused and there is plenty of wire to do it.

Hope this helps someone. Any questions or need additional info don't hesitate to ask. I believe the necessary sockets area 9, 10(ratcheting wrench helps here for the stock relay hold down), maybe an 11, as well as a 13. Deep are necessary in some locations due to stud length, but can make do mostly with shallows.
This is what the final pictures should look like:




Last edited by glovemeister; 03-01-2012 at 06:09 PM.
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post #2 of 12 Old 03-01-2012, 05:59 PM
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Great write-up as usual man.
Don't have a Cali, but this will help anyone who does.
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post #3 of 12 Old 03-01-2012, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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It was pretty funny, I didn't lose any sockets but first thing I lost a washer in the valley. I tried to be brave and reach for it and was the motor was pretty warm, not my best idea. Anyway I brought out the magentic tool and got it out real easy. I was laughing because those suckers should be OEM equipment for psd owners. I always lose something even being careful .

If you are good with wiring doing it one at a time isn't probably necessary I prefer to do things that way so I don't get confused and there is plenty of wire to do it.

Hope this helps someone. Any questions or need additional info don't hesitate to ask. I believe the necessary sockets area 9, 10(ratcheting wrench helps here for the stock relay hold down), maybe an 11, as well as a 13. Deep are necessary in some locations due to stud length, but can make do mostly with shallows.

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post #4 of 12 Old 03-02-2012, 05:27 AM
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Just for grins, you should try taking the shunt out and just connecting the leads for each bank directly to the Stancor relay. I'm curious to see if it will keep the PCM happy or throw a code.

97 F350 CCLB 4x4 PSD
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post #5 of 12 Old 03-02-2012, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superduty4x4 View Post
Just for grins, you should try taking the shunt out and just connecting the leads for each bank directly to the Stancor relay. I'm curious to see if it will keep the PCM happy or throw a code.
Supposedly it removes one the the key features of being able to trouble shoot gp system with obd2. I'm not really sure how I would hook it up as, left bank and right back need to be seperate.

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post #6 of 12 Old 03-02-2012, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glovemeister View Post
Supposedly it removes one the the key features of being able to trouble shoot gp system with obd2. I'm not really sure how I would hook it up as, left bank and right back need to be seperate.
I know what it does, but if your GP's aren't working you'll know it for one. For two, it only tells you what bank the dead plug is on, and it doesn't take that much longer to test the other side for a dead plug. 3, it would make for a cleaner install.
But... if by doing do the SES light stays on because the PCM is looking for the resistance from the shunt then it's pointless anyway. That's what I was wondering, is if bypassing the shunt will trigger the SES or allow the PCM to go about its happy little business.

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post #7 of 12 Old 03-02-2012, 11:44 AM
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I'm fairly certain it will set the CEL if removed or bypassed. Cheers!

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post #8 of 12 Old 03-02-2012, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superduty4x4 View Post
I know what it does, but if your GP's aren't working you'll know it for one. For two, it only tells you what bank the dead plug is on, and it doesn't take that much longer to test the other side for a dead plug. 3, it would make for a cleaner install.
But... if by doing do the SES light stays on because the PCM is looking for the resistance from the shunt then it's pointless anyway. That's what I was wondering, is if bypassing the shunt will trigger the SES or allow the PCM to go about its happy little business.
Yeah it triggers an SES. I've got a CEL right now and I'm guessing either it means that it hasn't had enough time for the battery disconnect error, or my glow plug error code is burnt to my pcm as common with these cali pcm trucks. Costs like $150 to get Ford to reflash it regardless of if it works or not.

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post #9 of 12 Old 03-02-2012, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glovemeister View Post
Yeah it triggers an SES. I've got a CEL right now and I'm guessing either it means that it hasn't had enough time for the battery disconnect error, or my glow plug error code is burnt to my pcm as common with these cali pcm trucks. Costs like $150 to get Ford to reflash it regardless of if it works or not.
I hadn't heard of the code "burning" to the PCM. I had an E99 CA model that had a GPR with a shunt like the 97 CA emissions models. I actually upgraded to a later model PCM in that truck and had to bypass the shunt. Never had a problem with either the factory or upgraded PCM in that one.

97 F350 CCLB 4x4 PSD
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post #10 of 12 Old 03-02-2012, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
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P1396 Bank 2 Fault - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

Second post down, TSB for PCM code burning to memory.

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