replacing rear shackles and hangers - question about parts - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

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post #1 of 14 Old 02-25-2012, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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replacing rear shackles and hangers - question about parts

im gonna be replacing the rear hangers and shackles on my 95 dually. also gonna be swapping the rear fuel tank out too.. anyway - i got replacement parts for the hangers and shackles from Advance Auto. just wondering if there is any real , difference if any, weather i use the parts i already bought instead of ordering from one of the internet suspension places that sell the entire kit.

they are all about the same prices - internet might even be a little cheaper, but i like the idea of being able to go back to the store if i find something wrong with them. the stuff from advance auto are made in china parts. im sure most are these days. so does anyone know of any REAL reason to return these and order online, or is it all the same stuff?

i think ive basically gotten the procedure down but if anyone has a good idea let me know. im gonna take the bed off for this, which will be a project in itself. will probably be buying a needle scaler and appling some chassis saver while im down there. i bought some cheap harbor freight trailer lights so i can just stick them on and be able to drive around with the bed off for a while if need be.
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post #2 of 14 Old 02-26-2012, 04:02 AM
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i think they are all the same i got mine from rock auto and they are made in china also. taking the bed off will make it alot easyer to do in the long run. i've never used a needle scaler but in going to use a wire wheel cup on my grinder to clean up the frame then spray it with rust reformer and finaly some under coating which should realy help protect it from the elements. other than that you will need alot of cut off wheels to remove the old rivets and a tall jack or stand to support the frame while your working on that side

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post #3 of 14 Old 02-26-2012, 04:04 AM
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They are all the same no diff

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post #4 of 14 Old 02-26-2012, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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i think they are all the same i got mine from rock auto and they are made in china also. taking the bed off will make it alot easyer to do in the long run. i've never used a needle scaler but in going to use a wire wheel cup on my grinder to clean up the frame then spray it with rust reformer and finaly some under coating which should realy help protect it from the elements. other than that you will need alot of cut off wheels to remove the old rivets and a tall jack or stand to support the frame while your working on that side
if your gonna do some rust prevention google chassis saver. this looks to be one of the best things out there. theres also a few vids on youtube of people using it. one guy thinned it out and shot it with a paint gun and was able to do the underside of his car with just a quart. also if you have an air compressor check out videos of the harbor freight needle scalers on youtube also. they have 2 sizes, both really cheap and get great reviews.
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post #5 of 14 Old 02-26-2012, 11:54 AM
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ive heard of the chasis saver but i know its expensive and ive never tried a needle scaler might have to pick one up this week before i finish this project. drivers side rear broke and i noticed it today and changed it already

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post #6 of 14 Old 02-26-2012, 12:29 PM
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Sounds like this problem is going around. I broke a rear drivers side shackle a couple days ago. The new hanger/shackle will be in in the morning. It took a couple hours yesterday morning grinding out the old rivets. So what is going to be the trick to getting the tension off the leafs to get them attached to the new shackle? Lift the truck by the frame and it will come free? Ive never done anything like this before so any advice you guys can throw my way will be great.
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post #7 of 14 Old 02-26-2012, 12:35 PM
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yes you have to lift by the frame for this round i used my bottle jack with a piece of 4x4 on top to reach the frame and lift it there. and the bottom bolts werent bad to put back in but the top ones are a royal pain to put in with the gas tank there

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post #8 of 14 Old 02-26-2012, 01:16 PM
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What size (length/width) nuts and bolts would you recommend? And Im guessing grade 8?
And probably a lot easier with the wheel removed to im betting?
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post #9 of 14 Old 02-26-2012, 01:28 PM
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mine came with the nuts and bolts for it

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post #10 of 14 Old 02-26-2012, 01:58 PM
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Aha! The ford parts guy said I would need to purchase them from NAPA....
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