Replacing clutch.. what else??

[FC_Bryan]

Hey guys I am converting my wobbly DM clutch set up to a SM set up.. I am doing this myself and wanted to know if there was anything else I should do while I am in there and have the tranny out? Is there a way to service my up pipes? I was also thinking Rear Main but mine does not leak a drop and I like to use Motorcraft brand on things like that but my dealer want 98.88 less my 20% off.. I pull the tranny and it is dry and not wore out looking should I just leave it? How do you guys feel about using parts store brand seals like Mr gasket, Borg Warner, or Napa brands?? Also I have done many clutches in my day but never a diesel.. is there any surprises other than the weight of the factory flywheel that I am in for lol. Thanks in advance guys! My truck is a 1995 Ford F250 2wd 130K miles.

[z250kid]

you could do new up pipe donut gaskets easy with tranny out check for leaks and you can replace your turbo orings easier! The back two are a b**ch

[FC_Bryan]

Do you have to put on new up pipes with the donuts or can you use the old one? also what orings on the turbo are you referring to? the oil? I am going to be pulling the turbo soon to rebuild it and put a wicked wheel on and maybe put a smaller exhaust housing on it also..

[erics diesel]

i would also replace the master/slave cylinder assembly this way you know there good

[glovemeister]

Originally Posted by FC_Bryan

Do you have to put on new up pipes with the donuts or can you use the old one? also what orings on the turbo are you referring to? the oil? I am going to be pulling the turbo soon to rebuild it and put a wicked wheel on and maybe put a smaller exhaust housing on it also..

Wicked wheel isn't needed on our trucks. They are for super duties though because they had mad surge. The wheels on our trucks are essentially wicked wheels anyway.

[madpogue]

Perfect opportunity to install a 3" round downpipe. Or at least do the firewall/floor flange mod to make room for it later.

If your flywheel inspection plate has that forward-jutting "flange" that's known to saw through the oil pan, grind/snip that off.

[FC_Bryan]

Thanks guys! I just put a 3" Downpipe last weekend.. should have waited.. would have been so easy..lol I also just installed a new sealed master and slave kit. How do I take it off and keep the slaves piston from shooting out? I also grinded my inspection plate where it was hitting the oil pan.

[madpogue]

Step (or two) ahead of us!

When you put the hydraulics in, did the slave have a (sorry) "hymen" that held the slave rod back for shipment? If so, did you by any chance keep that in place, but just unclip it from the slave? That's the best way to install it. That way, you just clip it back onto the slave, and when you pull the slave off, the rod stays in place. IIRC, the "official" instructions are to just push the pedal, which breaks the "wings" off that piece the first time. But if you unclip it instead, it's still there on the tip of the rod where it hits the fork, and you can re-use it. I did this on the last hydraulics replacement, only to have the shop that did the clutch take it off and throw it away .

If it's not there, maybe you could shimmy something in between the tip of the rod and the fork, maybe cut open a soda can. And if you can slip it in there, crimp the ends around the end of the slave body. Hopefully that will hold the rod back.

[FC_Bryan]

I think the plastic sleeve deal is still there.. was not sure if I could just clip it back in or not.. anyone have any good easy ways for getting the pilot bearing out? that is always the worst part of the job for me..!

[glovemeister]

Originally Posted by madpogue

Step (or two) ahead of us!

When you put the hydraulics in, did the slave have a (sorry) "hymen" that held the slave rod back for shipment? If so, did you by any chance keep that in place, but just unclip it from the slave? That's the best way to install it. That way, you just clip it back onto the slave, and when you pull the slave off, the rod stays in place. IIRC, the "official" instructions are to just push the pedal, which breaks the "wings" off that piece the first time. But if you unclip it instead, it's still there on the tip of the rod where it hits the fork, and you can re-use it. I did this on the last hydraulics replacement, only to have the shop that did the clutch take it off and throw it away .

If it's not there, maybe you could shimmy something in between the tip of the rod and the fork, maybe cut open a soda can. And if you can slip it in there, crimp the ends around the end of the slave body. Hopefully that will hold the rod back.

I ended up breaking the piston/seals my first 84 ford clutch job. Trying to force it back it with lockjaws. That simple clutch job was a royal nightmare... Wasn't hard just had to replace everything from clutch slave to clutch, including clutch hose because a relative thought you cut it and didn't realize there was a dowel pin. I didn't realize it either (until after) and had to replace the hose.