Tips for getting a manual trans 7.3? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 7 Old 01-25-2012, 05:48 AM Thread Starter
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Tips for getting a manual trans 7.3?

Im most likely going to sell my 04 6.0 and grab a 95-97 7.3 5 speed. I know how to drive a stickshift but that was in a car. When i shift should i float the gears under normal driving or use the clutch whenever i change gears? Also around what rpms are the optimal shifting points? Tips for stop and go traffic? How good are these trannies? ect.. Im looking for either an ext cab or single cab long bed, 4x4.

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post #2 of 7 Old 01-25-2012, 06:42 AM
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i have a 97 reg cab long bed f350 4x4 with hd 5 speed manual. i would say that this trans/clutch is not for everyone.... and absolutely will not shift without clutch. at least mine won't. it likes clutch to be pushed all the way in.... every time.

1st gear is basically useless unless you are pulling a house off it's foundation. i start in 2nd... and don't have to slip clutch at all. i guess 4.10 gears and 500 ft lbs of torque help with that. it shifts a lil harder when cold, once warm it's fine and seems smoothest shifting around 2,300-2,500 rpm.

no problems in traffic but eventually your left leg will be stronger than right... so you might be walking in circles in a year or so..

like i said... i don't believe this set up is for everyone.... but i love mine!
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post #3 of 7 Old 01-25-2012, 07:42 AM
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I drive mine with and without the clutch. Just like every other manual, every one has a different clutch feel and after a day or two you'll be used to it.

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post #4 of 7 Old 01-25-2012, 09:11 AM
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shift points depend on your gears and how fast you want to accelerate. I might shift at 1500 on flat ground then almost redline pulling into traffic uphill. My tranny will shift no problem without the clutch but sometimes it's just easier to use it. Stop and go is a b%&!h if you have a trailer.

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post #5 of 7 Old 01-25-2012, 11:39 AM
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I just use the clutch all the time (that's what it's for!). Screw up the synchros and you'll be wishing you hadn't, trying to learn how to float it. The trannies are well built and not cheap to rebuild replace. The stock dualmass flywheel was a problem and had high pedal effort. The single mass flywheel/clutch kits has a much lighter pedal effort, but tend to have a bit more gear rollover noise at slow speeds/low RPMs (not a big deal for me). Unloaded, I usually take off in 2nd without slipping the clutch and really only used first when towing the fifthwheel. Cheers!

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post #6 of 7 Old 01-26-2012, 03:18 PM
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I have it and love it. I have 4.10s I use 1st alot but only to get moving bu the time the clutch is out i'm shifting, maybe i should just start in 2nd. I shift very early unless i am towing I'm in 5th gear by 32mph.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tpar1220 View Post
i have a 97 reg cab long bed f350 4x4 with hd 5 speed manual. i would say that this trans/clutch is not for everyone.... and absolutely will not shift without clutch. at least mine won't. it likes clutch to be pushed all the way in.... every time.
Mine used to do that, but after going through the pedal assembly it shifts about in the middle. you may want to hcek yours the clutch rod and lever on the pedal assembly have a tendency to wear big tim

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Originally Posted by elrojo63 View Post
shift points depend on your gears and how fast you want to accelerate. I might shift at 1500 on flat ground then almost redline pulling into traffic uphill. My tranny will shift no problem without the clutch but sometimes it's just easier to use it. Stop and go is a b%&!h if you have a trailer.
i put it in a gear and just let it idle along works pretty well fo rme

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I just use the clutch all the time (that's what it's for!). Screw up the synchros and you'll be wishing you hadn't, trying to learn how to float it. The trannies are well built and not cheap to rebuild replace. The stock dualmass flywheel was a problem and had high pedal effort. The single mass flywheel/clutch kits has a much lighter pedal effort, but tend to have a bit more gear rollover noise at slow speeds/low RPMs (not a big deal for me). Unloaded, I usually take off in 2nd without slipping the clutch and really only used first when towing the fifthwheel. Cheers!
definitely upgrade the flywheel

94.5 F250 Reg Cab 4x4 5 speed 4.10 276000 plus miles

97 F350 Crew Cab LB 4x4 5 speed 3.55 320000 plus miles (parts truck)



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post #7 of 7 Old 01-26-2012, 05:22 PM
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We have two '95s 4x4s with ZF5s. I can sometimes float it out of gear into neutral, when slowing down for a light. 4.10s may be amenable to second gear launches, but with 3.55s, I don't find first gear to be "useless" for everyday driving. I launch in first, even unloaded.

The connection where the "knob" on the clutch pedal lever goes into the hydraulic master pushrod eyelet is critical. Stock is a cr@ptastic plastic bushing that eventually wears to where the knob pops out of place. Fancy fix - cut off the eyelet and install a Heim joint, available on eBay (search "Ford clutch heim joint"). Cheap/easy fix - use a piece of 1/2"OD-7/16"ID brass tubing in place of the bushing, and put a 7/16" drill stop collar on the knob to keep it in place.

Flywheel - OEM clutch and dumb-mass....er.... dual-mass flywheel is not just harder to operate, it's a ticking time bomb. The two "masses" are held together with flimsy springs, and there are plastic bits involved. When it lets go, if it's under load, the spinning parts flying loose can grenade through the tranny case. Single-mass flywheel is the cure. After a short while, you don't even notice the gear rollover noise. ** Note: if you hear or feel a "ka-thuck" sound as the engine stops when you turn the key off, that's a sign that the dual-mass flywheel is letting go. You can remove the inspection cover, and if you can move the flywheel back and forth at all, it's past its bedtime.

Speaking of which, that cover has a "flange" that extends forward. The edge of that flange is just about right up against the engine oil pan, and over time, with vibration/movement, it can "saw" through the pan. Not a good day. There's a TSB out there, and a replacement part for $$$$ from the dealer. Or you can remove the cover and grind or snip off that flange.

It REQUIRES synthetic ATF. We're running Mobil 1 in both, and TBH, I don't like the shifting in winter. I've read that a product called Castrol Transynd, made for Allison trannies and usually only available at truck stops, is the shizz for our ZF5s.
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