can anyone give me a procedure for replacing the rear fuel tank. - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 21 Old 01-24-2012, 12:59 AM Thread Starter
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can anyone give me a procedure for replacing the rear fuel tank.

hey all - this is probably my first thread on here although i do poke around when i need to find some info. ( just rebuilt my fuel bowl, tightened the banjo bolt, and now waiting to see if the pump is leaking too - yes when it rains it pours)however, i cant seem to find much about removing the rear tank. i have a 95 dually, and the rear tank has a hole in it. i bought a replacement a while back, but just getting around to fixing it. (a year later) im not going to be removing the bed, as im doing this alone. im pretty sure i have eveything i need. i have the new tank, new straps, hand and air tools. i bought the quick release tool set for the lines, not sure if i need them. - basically - can anyone just give a quick procedure/ order of events to swap this out. anything i need to watch out for?

also - the fuel level indicator use to work on this tank, ( the one on the tank im using does not). this tank probably hasnt been used in about a year so im also wondering if the sending unit should still be ok. is there something i should do to the one in the tank ill be swaping before re-installing it? is there anything i can do to fix the other one once this swap is done, or does the entire sending unit need to replaced so i can stop guessing how much fuel i have left?

thanks in advance for any help.
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post #2 of 21 Old 01-24-2012, 06:25 AM
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Take the bed off and it will all be right there, easy as pie to get out.

1997 F-250HD Extended Cab 4x4 7.3 Powerstroke
3" Down Pipe to 4" Exhaust (Stainless) ~ Tymar Intake w/ AFE Big Boost Filter ~ TS 6 Position Chip ~ HPOP Cross Over Line ~ Regulated Return ~ E-Fuel System ~ Intercooled ~ CCV Mod ~ Dual Aeroforce Interceptor Gauges ~ Dana 60 Swap

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post #3 of 21 Old 01-24-2012, 06:29 AM
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4x4 or 2WD?
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post #4 of 21 Old 01-24-2012, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjonesjr View Post
Take the bed off and it will all be right there, easy as pie to get out.
he said he cant remove the bed kause he is doing it alone
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Originally Posted by madpogue View Post
4x4 or 2WD?
im going to assume 4x2 since no factory dually is 4x4 less its a c&c

to the op
remove your spare tire, remove the spare hoist assembly, un bolt the 2 straps, if you have stock or aftermarket exhaust exiting out near there your gonna want to unbolt that area near the tank kause it will be in your way, your going to have to finagle it a bit kause of the factory hitch, and drop it, if your not gonna replace the sending unit, let it hang, if your are, use your quick disconnects and pull it off, swap in your new stuff.

this is how i replaced the pump on my 95 f150 in the rear tank, dont forget to put the seal in before your put the pump in, dont ask how i know, you will have to redo the entire process if you mess this up, and the pump should be a twist lock to remove and replace into the tank

-Kris-
2000 excursion V10 2wd 230k
2000 Excursion 7.3 4x4 246k
1995 CCLB DRW 324K
2001 CCLB DRW 319K
Dp tuner infinity, exhaust, intake, chipped, tricked, and wrecked
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marine5811
The stock downpipe in an OBS is flat because I'm a ginger.
Quote:
Originally Posted by alberta 7.3
Finding a decent woman is like shopping for a used truck. You spend most of your time picking through the money pits, wrecks, and basket cases until you find one that you can tolerate
Quote:
Originally Posted by JJFLASH
Well at least you caught the loose bolts before they cause any damage. Nothing worse than a sloppy hole
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post #5 of 21 Old 01-24-2012, 08:56 AM
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Ooops, missed the dually part.

You'll also have to remove the filler neck. You probably won't be able to get the lock ring off with the lines connected; there just isn't room to wail on it. You can get a cheapo tool for the quick-releases at the FLAPS. Then with the tank on the ground, you can pound off the lock ring. If the new tank doesn't come with a lock ring, you'll need one; you can pretty-much count on destroying the existing one upon removal.

Paint the tank and the straps, if you don't want this one rusting out too.

There's no pump.
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post #6 of 21 Old 01-24-2012, 09:13 AM
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I'd find someone to help me remove the bed. Dropping the tank is a pain in the ***.

1997 F-250HD Extended Cab 4x4 7.3 Powerstroke
3" Down Pipe to 4" Exhaust (Stainless) ~ Tymar Intake w/ AFE Big Boost Filter ~ TS 6 Position Chip ~ HPOP Cross Over Line ~ Regulated Return ~ E-Fuel System ~ Intercooled ~ CCV Mod ~ Dual Aeroforce Interceptor Gauges ~ Dana 60 Swap

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post #7 of 21 Old 01-24-2012, 09:40 AM
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yeah, filler neck is held in with like 2 screws, and take a flat head screw driver, place it on the stub hit the back with a hammer, lock ring comes off pretty easy imho

-Kris-
2000 excursion V10 2wd 230k
2000 Excursion 7.3 4x4 246k
1995 CCLB DRW 324K
2001 CCLB DRW 319K
Dp tuner infinity, exhaust, intake, chipped, tricked, and wrecked
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marine5811
The stock downpipe in an OBS is flat because I'm a ginger.
Quote:
Originally Posted by alberta 7.3
Finding a decent woman is like shopping for a used truck. You spend most of your time picking through the money pits, wrecks, and basket cases until you find one that you can tolerate
Quote:
Originally Posted by JJFLASH
Well at least you caught the loose bolts before they cause any damage. Nothing worse than a sloppy hole
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post #8 of 21 Old 01-24-2012, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by madpogue View Post
4x4 or 2WD?
2wd - no factory option for 4wd that yr unfortunately
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post #9 of 21 Old 01-24-2012, 09:49 AM
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lots of conversions tho

-Kris-
2000 excursion V10 2wd 230k
2000 Excursion 7.3 4x4 246k
1995 CCLB DRW 324K
2001 CCLB DRW 319K
Dp tuner infinity, exhaust, intake, chipped, tricked, and wrecked
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marine5811
The stock downpipe in an OBS is flat because I'm a ginger.
Quote:
Originally Posted by alberta 7.3
Finding a decent woman is like shopping for a used truck. You spend most of your time picking through the money pits, wrecks, and basket cases until you find one that you can tolerate
Quote:
Originally Posted by JJFLASH
Well at least you caught the loose bolts before they cause any damage. Nothing worse than a sloppy hole
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post #10 of 21 Old 01-24-2012, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 351fifty View Post
yeah, filler neck is held in with like 2 screws, and take a flat head screw driver, place it on the stub hit the back with a hammer, lock ring comes off pretty easy imho
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjonesjr View Post
I'd find someone to help me remove the bed. Dropping the tank is a pain in the ***.
All depends on what you're working with. You need at least two large-ish guys, or at least three dudes my size, to remove the bed. And what if you have a topper, and a bed full of stuff? Does the OP have a place to set the bed down? We'd have to move a vehicle onto the street to make room for the bed. It's also one more set of most likely rust-welded fasteners to remove.

The one thing removing the bed gains you is the ability to pound on the lock ring with plenty of room, which you'll need. Then you avoid messing with the QRs. When I dropped the rear tank on our RCLB, there was no effing way I had room to hit that lock ring with enough force while it was hanging by the lines under the truck. Maybe in California, they're still nice and easy after 15+ years, but not up here.

Everybody's sitch is different. One guy's PITA is another guy's way-easier.
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