WTB:OBS 7.3 what do i look 4

[scottharmon]

so like the title say i want to bye a OBS 7.3 and get out of my 6.0 not cause of problems its a great truck and i love it, its never given me a problem but i would like to sell it and bye a OBS and have no truck payment. I knew what to look for when buying my 6.0 but i dont know what to look at when it comes to OBS 7.3's please help me thanks

[scottharmon]

bump back up.

[scottharmon]

anyone any help or are these trucks just that good lol i just want to know what you look at when you bought yours ie: engine noise problems or trannies transfercases what goes bad one these and you can spot

[Chop]

I would suggest one with lower miles,well maintained ,that's been pampered .The auto transmissions are considered the weakest point on the OBS to some on this forum.
The oil pans have been known to rust out on a limited few .
fuel system is kinda simple and basic ,mechanical pump and a return line .
4x4 Crewcabs bring the most money ,the F250 CC ,made two years 96 and 97,short beds with a different front axle ( 4x4 ) some convert to the Dana 60 axle as I did .
Rust can be an issue on the snowbelt trucks,bedside panels ,lower door panels and lower portion of fenders
The best part of the OBS series is we don't have to deal with so many of the emissions garbage you see now and the mileage is reportedly better than current models .
I saw a 97 F350 CC 4x4 on Ebay with 42k miles in pristine condition sell for 29 grand,not bad for a "old" truck ,Good luck

[glovemeister]

Originally Posted by scottharmon

so like the title say i want to bye a OBS 7.3 and get out of my 6.0 not cause of problems its a great truck and i love it, its never given me a problem but i would like to sell it and bye a OBS and have no truck payment. I knew what to look for when buying my 6.0 but i dont know what to look at when it comes to OBS 7.3's please help me thanks

The number one thing that you need to look at is the air intake. I'd almost bet money it is either an open element K&N, or a k&n inside the stock airbox. These will let in dirt and dust your turbo. Pull the intake tube on the turbo and look at the wheel, if it looks sandblasted you should pass unless you get a screaming deal. Mine was a K&N and I got such a good deal and the guy drove 7 hours to bring it to me that I didn't even check anything, did the deal and walked. I figured if it made it 7 hours and didn't smoke or anything there were no major problems.

If you find a K&N remove it and replace it with Napa airfilter, 6637 which requires removing the stock airbox and then a 4 inch piece of ABS. It filters better as well as lets your motor breath better.

Second, Pull your oil cap and set it upside down over the fill hole. If it blows off the motor has a lot of blow by and I would likely pass.

Third, inspect the color of the oil to see if it has any milky color in it.

Ask about any additives for the truck coolant, they need scas. If they have no idea I'd probably pass unless they have mech or dealer receipts.

Ask about major repairs, injectors, turbo, trans, etc. Mine had no receipts for this but again I wanted an obs so badly and figured I got a good enough deal that I would deal with it.

I personally prefer a manual trans, if you are test driving it do a quick shift between 2nd and 3rd and 3rd and 4th if you have grinding the synchros are getting worn out from people power shifting it. My synchros did that alot but now that I double clutch and drive carefully the problem only rarely comes up. If it does grind it can be helped with synthetic mtf or atf, like amisol or redline.

Check for any clunking in 4x4, front ujoint is a bit expensive in double cardan. Check window and door lock function if power.

Look for fuel leaks in the valley it is a common condition, not something to walk away from but it does need fixed.

If possible when you go up to an obs open the hood and feel the turbo, if its warm they are trying to pull some kind of a stunt. You want it dead cold to see what kind of smoke it puts out. White, is likely glowplugs and mostly normal, blue or black means there is some bigger problem likely injector related.

Outside of that these trucks are beast and I love the heck out of mine. If you need any further detail or want to talk on the phone, send me an im I'll get you my phone number to try and answer any questions.

I am pretty new to the obs world, owned since 11/14/11, but I have done a hell of a lot of internet searching, reading the factory book, haynes books, writeups, as well as done my own writeups.

[backwoodsboy]

Glovemeister basically covered it.
Definitely check the turbo for dusting, and do a blow-by test. Those are signs of some serious repairs coming up.
If it's an automatic, make sure it's been rebuilt or replaced. Any stock auto with over about 120k is going to have some issues unless it's been babied all its life. Ask about bigger valve bodies and TC.
If you're looking at an F250, a Dana 60 swap would be ideal. Having a Dana 50 shouldn't be a deal breaker, but make sure to look over the front end. Tires that are bowed outwards (not parrallel to the ground) are a sign of trouble.
Again, make sure to see the truck from a cold start. Under 30 degrees would be ideal. This will give you an idea of the GP system and injector function.
Check the valley for oil (HPOP or EBPV leak) and fuel.
See if theres been a 5th wheel hitch in the bed. A fifth wheel hitch without guages (EGT and Trans Temp) is bad news, as both of those can get out of control when towing heavy.
Once the truck has warmed up, put it in neutral and rev it from idle up to 3000rpm. If it accelerated smooth, the injection system is working well. If it seems to bog down around 22-2600 rpm, this could be a sign of injectors or HPOP going bad.

[CrazyCanadianDad]

If you are getting one that has some rust check out the rear spring shackles as well. Also look at the rad cradle support where it meets the frame up front this is a very common place for them to rust out. Use a magnet above the wheel wells to make sure they are metal and not mud!!

Good luck on your hunt!!

[scottharmon]

wow that is alot of good info that guys

[Red '97]

Originally Posted by backwoodsboy

Glovemeister basically covered it.
Definitely check the turbo for dusting, and do a blow-by test. Those are signs of some serious repairs coming up.
If it's an automatic, make sure it's been rebuilt or replaced. Any stock auto with over about 120k is going to have some issues unless it's been babied all its life. Ask about bigger valve bodies and TC.
If you're looking at an F250, a Dana 60 swap would be ideal. Having a Dana 50 shouldn't be a deal breaker, but make sure to look over the front end. Tires that are bowed outwards (not parrallel to the ground) are a sign of trouble.
Again, make sure to see the truck from a cold start. Under 30 degrees would be ideal. This will give you an idea of the GP system and injector function.
Check the valley for oil (HPOP or EBPV leak) and fuel.
See if theres been a 5th wheel hitch in the bed. A fifth wheel hitch without guages (EGT and Trans Temp) is bad news, as both of those can get out of control when towing heavy.
Once the truck has warmed up, put it in neutral and rev it from idle up to 3000rpm. If it accelerated smooth, the injection system is working well. If it seems to bog down around 22-2600 rpm, this could be a sign of injectors or HPOP going bad.

my transmission is stock with 246,000 miles. never skipped a beat when my dad drove it for work, 1800 pound shop body on the back from 25,000 miles all the way to 220,000. transmission was always serviced when it needed to be, and it shifts great now without any issues at all. i think the e40d is a great tranny, along with any other ford autos. they just last, they are good transmissions. so my 2 cents, if you find one with high miels and an auto, dont let it stop you if it is obvious that the truck has been well cared for

[t_davis_bd]

I know I'm new on here but I've been running OBS's for years.

These are all good things to look out for but at the end of the day these trucks are old be picky!

If they say the trans has been rebuild get a build sheet! Other than the engine that is the most expensive part you'll have to replace. Believe me.

I got out of the big trucks for a couple years and when I wanted another one I bought a rust free truck with 175k on it that had a "rebuild trans" and it had been out and everthing looked good. 1 month later I was putting $3500 into the trans that was washed and patched. So far in the past 18 mos of owning this truck trans, t-case(seals dryed out), rear end, front axle rebuild, turbo..... HPOP, injectors coming... You get the idea. So I ended up with a rust free headache but once I have everything rebuild I'll have a new truck and no payment so that is the silver lining.