High Idle - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 01-20-2012, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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Question High Idle

Hey guys just wondered if someone can point me to a thread on how to do the high idle. I don't have a chip or anything yet and don't wanna waste a position if i do get one. Does anyone know how to do this and what I need to do it??

Junior
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95 F250 ECLB 4X4
DIY 6637 intake
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FPR shim
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post #2 of 13 Old 01-20-2012, 02:33 PM
DERAIL MOD!!!


 
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the only position waists are is lope idle, and smoke show, and on stock injectors light and heavy tow is a waiste, just need 1 tow tune, they have 6 positions, but you could just get an aic to keep the idle up for ya, sorry dont know any diy unless you pull out a stick

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Dp tuner infinity, exhaust, intake, chipped, tricked, and wrecked
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post #3 of 13 Old 01-20-2012, 04:16 PM
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Lol, your username is funny.

I know there is a writeup somewhere here, to wire up a resistor pot with a relay, the idle validation switch and the gas pedal, but can't seem to find it right now.
If you do get a chip, take the high idle posisiton. IMHO, it's not a waste at all.
or you can also get a OEM auxiliary idle controller, that just plugs in.

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post #4 of 13 Old 01-20-2012, 04:18 PM
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might be able to find one out of a PTO equiped 7.3 like a dump or international truck of some sort??

FRANK THE TANK
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post #5 of 13 Old 01-20-2012, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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OK thanks guys. I will look into it or wait for a chip might be easier!!!

I think your name is pretty good too Crazy Canadian!!! LOL I wasn't copying I promise!!

Junior
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95 F250 ECLB 4X4
DIY 6637 intake
3.5" straight pipe
FPR shim
Fuel leak and some rusty fenders
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post #6 of 13 Old 01-21-2012, 02:54 AM
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Somebody posted this years ago on this site and I saved it. Been meaning to do it, just havent. Don't know for sure if it works, but I hope this helps.

Auxilary idle control mod

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Application--94.5-96 Ford PSD

Mod result--Selectable and variable fast idle control

Difficulty--3 wrenches

Time--1-3 hours depending on ability

Ok to start off with you will have to go to Radio Shack or similar store and get some parts.

Single Pole Single Throw Switch. Radio Shack pt# 275-612
5K Linear Taper Potentiometer. Radio Shack pt# 271-1714
Linear PART # for the 2K is Radio Shack pt# 900-8587
2 Single Pole Double Throw Auto Relays Radio Shack pt# 900-2391
2 Wiring Harness Plugs Radio Shack pt# 900-2396
18 Gauge Wire
SOLDER
Wire Ties
Butt Connectors
Soldering Gun
Safety Glasses

STEP 1 Switches
Find a power source that is with the key.
Run a wire from there to one side of the switch.
From the other side of the switch run a wire to the coil terminal of both relays
From the other side coil terminals on the relays run a wire to the parking break switch wire. (There is only one wire on the parking brake.)

STEP 2 Idle Validation Switch (IVS)
As you look at the throttle pedal you will see a switch on the left side with 2 wires going to it. The wires are taped together carefully un-tape them so you can work with the wires. I used a razor knife to cut the tape, but be careful not to cut the wires. (There should be a red/orange with and a brown wire, unless they changed the color code of these wires.)
Cut the red/orange wire leaving plenty on the switch side so that you can splice onto it. The red/orange wire that is going into the wire bundle needs to get hooked to the common side of one of the relays.
The other red/orange (the one attached to the IVS) goes to the NORMALLY CLOSED CONTACT (NC) of the relay. Now take a wire from the NORMALLY OPEN CONTACT (NO) and run it over to the brown wire by the IVS, you will just tap onto this wire so you don’t need to cut it. Just take some of the insulation off and solder it on, then tape her back up.

STEP 3 The other Relay and the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is located on top of the pedal and has 3 wires going to it. Remove the tape to expose the wires. (There should be a brown/white wire and a gray/white wire.)
Cut the brown/white wire, leaving enough to work with by the switch. Hook the end up that goes back into the wire bundle to the common side of the other relay.
Take the side that goes to the switch and hook it to the NORMALLY CLOSED CONTACT (NC) of the relay.
Take a wire from the NORMALLY OPEN CONTACT (NO) of the relay and go to the left terminal on the POT.
Now take a wire from the center terminal of the POT and tap it into the gray/white wire.

Tape up all the bare wires and enjoy
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post #7 of 13 Old 01-21-2012, 06:40 AM Thread Starter
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Wow thanks have to see if that works!

Junior
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95 F250 ECLB 4X4
DIY 6637 intake
3.5" straight pipe
FPR shim
Fuel leak and some rusty fenders
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post #8 of 13 Old 01-21-2012, 06:58 AM Thread Starter
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What is the FPR shim and what does it do??

Junior
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95 F250 ECLB 4X4
DIY 6637 intake
3.5" straight pipe
FPR shim
Fuel leak and some rusty fenders
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post #9 of 13 Old 01-21-2012, 07:36 AM
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FPR shim is simply a BB inserted in the FPR to boost fuel pressure...hth
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post #10 of 13 Old 01-21-2012, 07:58 AM
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You could order the dfuser high idle kit for like 80 bucks.
works great, i love mine. install cant be any easier. drill a hole for your switch, and clip connect 4 wires; done.

DFUSER Ford 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel Auxiliary Idle Controller AIC High Idle


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AFE intake, TW tunes, GT38r, 3"DP, 4" exhaust, 6" single stack, Rosewood Stage 2's, 910's,
17deg HPOP, DIY boost fooler, EBV delete, Dfuser High Idle, TQ converter Lock Switch,
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