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Front end overhaul
Hey guys, after using 4wd for the first time this season, I've decided it's time to overhaul the front end. I wish I could swap a D60 in, but my truck is my only source of transportation so it can only be down for 2 days tops.
Diagnosis - won't hold alignment. slight front end noise with hubs unlocked; even worse when locked/in 4wd and vibrates. sharp left turns are wobbly and in 4wd makes a clanking sound. There are a few cross-threaded wheel studs courtesy of PO. I'm going to replace the front wheel hubs (since needs new studs and wheel bearings), upper/lower ball joints, and maybe manual hubs. Anything else I should consider? u-joints? Also, are the wheel bearings servicable (independent of the wheel hubs)? There aren't many detailed threads on this topic, so I'll take plenty of pictures when I do the work. also, post part numbers when possible to help others in the future. Thanks! |
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If you have the tools (basic 1/2" drive ratchet, SAE and Metric sockets, jack stands, jack) and all the parts for the Dana 60 swap, you can do it in a day. I had my Dana 50 TTB out in an hour. If I had all the parts, I would have been driving my truck in less than 4 hours.
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I would definitely do the 60 swap for the cost of rebuilding a ttb. I bought all the parts for one side and it was 260. Imagine more for the passenger side as it has another ujoint. The 60 bolts directly in, just be sure to get the track bar drag link etc from the donor. I ended up having to do mine as an emergency repair however only needed the ujoint in the end, all of my seals and bearings were great.
Off the top of my head to rebuild the dana 50 ttb you would need: Hub inner and outer bearings and races for both sides Spindle bearings for both 3 ujoints 2 axle seals grease seals for both sides upper and lower ball joints for both sides I am sure I am missing some, I have a blown apart diagram somewhere if you want me to rummage it up. I bet it would cost 700 to rebuild it. |
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No welding at all. The Dana 60 swap is a bolt in swap.
I did a full write up on the swap. Look around the forums for it. It goes into detail about parts needed, and step by step on the swap. My truck handles the same, if not better than before. The turning radius is the same, still sucks. |
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thanks for the replies guys. Basically at this point I'm looking for the cheapest option. The TTB isn't as "bulletproof" as the d60, but the components should still last me 80-100k miles (I do mostly highway driving and very little offroading).
I know that there are 2 options for the d60..kingpin is said to be more reliable the the balljoint d60, but may be more expensive upfront when swapping. Is it true to say that the balljoint d60 is more bolt-on-ready? thanks mjonesjr, I'll check it out. |
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![]() i would do a d-60 swap if possibale, its not that involved and if you get everything ready with the d-60 it can be done rather quick, depending on rusted parts that also need to be replaced like spring perches and shackles??? dont know where you live |
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I'm from Iowa, so you can bet there's gonna be a lot of rusty parts :/
Does anybody have any solid info on which year/type of d60 that wouldn't require driveshaft modification? You guys are starting to convince me that d60 is the way to go, but I want to avoid getting a custom ds made if at all possible. |
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The drive shaft modification varies on each truck. You will have to actually get the Dana 60 under the truck and setting on all 4 tires, then measure from center of yoke to center of yoke. Then take your drive shaft to a shop and give them the measurements. If they are a good shop, they will tell you if you need any modification to the shaft or not.
Ford issued a TSB in the late '90s that if there was front drive line vibrations to swap over to the F-350 front drive shaft. All Dana 60's that will fit in the truck have the same dimensions. |
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Here's a thread on rebuilding the TTB from another site: "Dana 50 TTB Rebuild Complete"
Cheers! |
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