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post #1 of 11 Old 01-16-2012, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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Running on 1 battery?

Ok I was working on my truck today and noticed them battery terminals
Were lose 'so for the he'll of it I disconnected the driver side batt and fired the truck. Then disconnected the pass battery and tried to start with the driver battery and nothing except dim lights and faint beep of door bell. How can I test if the battery is not getting juice from alternator or what's causing it to be dead?

-Brenden-
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post #2 of 11 Old 01-16-2012, 05:00 PM
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Well with them hooked up you can test the battery on the terminal itself, not the terminal clamp.
If the volts are different between the clamp and terminal, then it's not making a good connection.
Chances are you have a bad battery.
Load test it separate of the other one.



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post #3 of 11 Old 01-16-2012, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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What's the best way to load test it?
And if one battery is dead can I buy just one or should i get two new ones?

-Brenden-
Theres Nothing Like A Good Cigar
95' F-250 7.3 EXTRACAB 4x4 LONGBED ZF5 238k
M.B.R.P down pipe,4" pipe to 5" turnouts, 6637 INTAKE, FPR SHIM, FP gauge, P.H.P. CHIP, Dana 60 swap, ccv mod, Issapro A-Piller Gauges, Aero force obd2 gauge, Rear 32gal bronco tank, 35" coopers(with no lift), steel flatbed, home made 7ft track bars,Zf5 swap and valair cluch!!!
(I love Slaming beers...Oh, i mean gears)
SOON TO COME: Rosewood stage 1.5
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post #4 of 11 Old 01-16-2012, 05:35 PM
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It's better to get both because the 'good' one could be weakened by the bad one.
Auto stores have load testers but they need to be heavy duty ones.
Test them individually.



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post #5 of 11 Old 01-16-2012, 06:20 PM
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if you have a battery tester,(harbor freight sells them for like 30 bucks) hook the driver battery up then hook the tester up to the starter where the line attaches, then test battery, that how you know if your cable is shot, never rule that out.


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post #6 of 11 Old 01-17-2012, 05:54 AM Thread Starter
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Who sells factory replacement battery cables?

-Brenden-
Theres Nothing Like A Good Cigar
95' F-250 7.3 EXTRACAB 4x4 LONGBED ZF5 238k
M.B.R.P down pipe,4" pipe to 5" turnouts, 6637 INTAKE, FPR SHIM, FP gauge, P.H.P. CHIP, Dana 60 swap, ccv mod, Issapro A-Piller Gauges, Aero force obd2 gauge, Rear 32gal bronco tank, 35" coopers(with no lift), steel flatbed, home made 7ft track bars,Zf5 swap and valair cluch!!!
(I love Slaming beers...Oh, i mean gears)
SOON TO COME: Rosewood stage 1.5
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post #7 of 11 Old 01-17-2012, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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The suspected bad batt tested under load at 7v. So I swaped it for a new one hope that helps

-Brenden-
Theres Nothing Like A Good Cigar
95' F-250 7.3 EXTRACAB 4x4 LONGBED ZF5 238k
M.B.R.P down pipe,4" pipe to 5" turnouts, 6637 INTAKE, FPR SHIM, FP gauge, P.H.P. CHIP, Dana 60 swap, ccv mod, Issapro A-Piller Gauges, Aero force obd2 gauge, Rear 32gal bronco tank, 35" coopers(with no lift), steel flatbed, home made 7ft track bars,Zf5 swap and valair cluch!!!
(I love Slaming beers...Oh, i mean gears)
SOON TO COME: Rosewood stage 1.5
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post #8 of 11 Old 01-18-2012, 09:10 AM
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did you get two batteries?

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post #9 of 11 Old 01-18-2012, 10:28 AM
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I had the same problem, mine cranked kinda slow so I replaced all the battery terminals and come to find out I was only cranking on the driver side battery, after I soldered on new terminals the truck cranks twice as fast and starts easier.
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post #10 of 11 Old 01-19-2012, 06:30 AM
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replace them in pairs... and stay away from napa batteries im replacing mine after less than 3 years
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