Tie rods? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 01-02-2012, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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Tie rods?

How hard are they to replace? Any suggestions on type and method?

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post #2 of 10 Old 01-03-2012, 06:41 AM
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Simple hammer and a few wrenches in sockets

97 f350single cab auto
4:10 axles spooled front axle
3in down pipe to stack
Intake 6637
140v idm mod
Efuel all built In house
II s475 .90 turbine spool....
Irate T4 304ss up pipes
T500 with gen3 pump
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Comp built Trans 2100 stall converter
Gearhead tunes

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post #3 of 10 Old 01-03-2012, 06:00 PM
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I need to replace mine too, what is the best brand to use and where can you get them the cheapest?


1996 F-350 XLT 4X4 CREW CAB LONG BED

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post #4 of 10 Old 01-03-2012, 06:27 PM
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I would say best brand is moog and napa idk about the cheapest or advance auto sells moog also

97 f350single cab auto
4:10 axles spooled front axle
3in down pipe to stack
Intake 6637
140v idm mod
Efuel all built In house
II s475 .90 turbine spool....
Irate T4 304ss up pipes
T500 with gen3 pump
450/400s hush power
Comp built Trans 2100 stall converter
Gearhead tunes

531/1080 on 250/200s

www.73performance.com

Sales@73performance.com
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post #5 of 10 Old 01-03-2012, 06:43 PM
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Buy a picklefork. NAPA has expensive tie rods (Don't know the manufacturer) and cheap tie rods (Moog). Pull the pins out of the castle nuts, then take the nuts off. Count the threads on the adjusting sleeves. Insert the picklefork and beat the hell out of it. Eventually, the rods come off. Loosen the adjusting sleeves, then unscrew the rods. Grease the threads, then put the assemblies back together. Tighten the nuts to torque specs, put the pins in, and drive directly to the alighment shop. To do otherwise is to feather tires.
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post #6 of 10 Old 01-03-2012, 06:46 PM
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I have never used a fork to do tie rods but everyone has there own way

97 f350single cab auto
4:10 axles spooled front axle
3in down pipe to stack
Intake 6637
140v idm mod
Efuel all built In house
II s475 .90 turbine spool....
Irate T4 304ss up pipes
T500 with gen3 pump
450/400s hush power
Comp built Trans 2100 stall converter
Gearhead tunes

531/1080 on 250/200s

www.73performance.com

Sales@73performance.com
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post #7 of 10 Old 01-03-2012, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgg93 View Post
Buy a picklefork. NAPA has expensive tie rods (Don't know the manufacturer) and cheap tie rods (Moog). Pull the pins out of the castle nuts, then take the nuts off. Count the threads on the adjusting sleeves. Insert the picklefork and beat the hell out of it. Eventually, the rods come off. Loosen the adjusting sleeves, then unscrew the rods. Grease the threads, then put the assemblies back together. Tighten the nuts to torque specs, put the pins in, and drive directly to the alighment shop. To do otherwise is to feather tires.
As in cheap quality? or price? I've heard great things about moog thus warranting the price, as well as XRF but what are the best?

The boots on my tie rods are blown and I get vibrations pretty good at higher speeds say 65 plus. My tires are worn, but could this be a sign of tierods needing replaced? They are greasable though... which I did do.

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post #8 of 10 Old 01-03-2012, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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I forgot to add my rear sway bar maybe trac bar? Has worn bushings on the deals that come down from the frame, and then the bushings on the axle itself are worn, I can move it from left to right about half inch to an inch, is this normal?

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post #9 of 10 Old 01-03-2012, 07:31 PM
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I've really never had any particularly good or bad luck with run-of-the-mill greaseable parts from your local parts place. They all seem to die about the same time if maintained.

Ball joints are usually knackered about the time the tie rod end(s) are fragged. And so are the front u-joints. Best to have a press to do this stuff, but if throwing away old parts, a fork works just swell to break the parts loose, and a c-press works well enough to reassemble the steering knuckle and drive shafts. It's not overly hard to do, just time consuming and you need the right tools to do it.

Alignment definitely required afterwords after any steering part change.

~Bruce~
'95 F250 4x4 ECLB 295k - ZF5, Southbend, 4.10, van pedestal, EBPV & CCV delete, 1.0 ex housing, 3" DP, 4" exhaust, BFAF, 140v IDM, MagHytec diff cover, HD front springs, 16x8 alloys
'95 F-Superduty 4x2 CM 12' Flatbed 33k - E4OD, 5.13, Banks intercooler, van pedestal, EBPV & CCV delete, 1.0 ex housing, 3" DP, 4" exhaust, BFAF, PHP tunes, 6.0 fan, 140v IDM, TruCool, MagHytec diff/pan, Dieselsite external trans filter, Autometer gauges, 180w LED light bar
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post #10 of 10 Old 01-03-2012, 09:05 PM
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A vibration at 65 is due to tires you don't typically see it from tie rods it's usaly drive line vibration if it gets better over 75 it's def drive line bad tires bent drive shaft etc. tie rods could lead to your worn tires along with ball joints

97 f350single cab auto
4:10 axles spooled front axle
3in down pipe to stack
Intake 6637
140v idm mod
Efuel all built In house
II s475 .90 turbine spool....
Irate T4 304ss up pipes
T500 with gen3 pump
450/400s hush power
Comp built Trans 2100 stall converter
Gearhead tunes

531/1080 on 250/200s

www.73performance.com

Sales@73performance.com
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