Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Hootersville, TN
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I've really never had any particularly good or bad luck with run-of-the-mill greaseable parts from your local parts place. They all seem to die about the same time if maintained.
Ball joints are usually knackered about the time the tie rod end(s) are fragged. And so are the front u-joints. Best to have a press to do this stuff, but if throwing away old parts, a fork works just swell to break the parts loose, and a c-press works well enough to reassemble the steering knuckle and drive shafts. It's not overly hard to do, just time consuming and you need the right tools to do it.
Alignment definitely required afterwords after any steering part change.
'95 F250 4x4 ECLB 295k - ZF5, Southbend, 4.10, van pedestal, EBPV & CCV delete, 1.0 ex housing, 3" DP, 4" exhaust, BFAF, 140v IDM, MagHytec diff cover, HD front springs, 16x8 alloys
'95 F-Superduty 4x2 CM 12' Flatbed 33k - E4OD, 5.13, Banks intercooler, van pedestal, EBPV & CCV delete, 1.0 ex housing, 3" DP, 4" exhaust, BFAF, PHP tunes, 6.0 fan, 140v IDM, TruCool, MagHytec diff/pan, Dieselsite external trans filter, Autometer gauges, 180w LED light bar