Zf-5 transmission temp sensor - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 01-02-2012, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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Zf-5 transmission temp sensor

so bought a 3 gauge pod from glow shift and wanted to put a trans temp on. main reason is because I'm not sure on how much ill be towing when i get done with school, plus seems like a good idea. cruising the threads here and on the web never really found any good guides or how to with pictures.

So i kinda read a bit on what other have done and figured out the rest my self. NOT saying this is how it should be done, but it's just want i did, and thought I'd share my experience doing it the way i have done.


Tools i used:
-3 foot 3/8 breaker bar
-drain pan *most likely going to need a new o ring for the tranny drain plug*
-14mm ; 10mm
-Allen wrench socket set.... (can't remember what size it was sorry)
-liquid pump *if you re-use your fluid* if replacing it's like 4qts of ATF
-R or 11/32 drill bit
-1/8 NPT tap (national pipe thread)
-Teflon tape and/or black RTV gasket
-wiring loom / few zip ties
-wiring tools as well strippers/crimpers & electoral tape
-Oh and a replacement gasket for the inspection plate *ill get the part number soon*

Pictures where taken with my phone so not the best quality


1.) You'll need to drain your transmission, this is where the 3' breaker bar comes in handy The drain is just a 3/8 drive so rather simple. just for future note if you are going to replace your fluid it hold little less then 4qts of ATF or synthetic ATF (correct me if im wrong).

1½.) Check the O ring on the drain plug, mine was messed up so i replaced it, just would be a good idea to do it anyways was less then a buck.

2.)Unbolt the inspection plate on the drivers side of your zf-5 (whatever side works for you, not 100% sure of the clearances on the passengers side but i'd assume it would work as well) They are 14mm bolts and are rater easy, much easier then that nasty drain plug was.


I had someone move the shifter around so i could see the gears at work



The pictures kinda show the space in there so that the temp prob has room as well.

3.)Next i took the plate to the bench and figured out where to mark it. I decided that in the middle of the top and bottom bolts, and just above the lower bolts holes.


i had a nice piece 2x2 of square stock handy and set it on it so i would bend the plate for the center punch. With the center punch mark on there was no need for the pilot hole so i just with with the 11/32 drill bit. using a 1/8 NPT tap cut the threads, making sure to back the tap up after a full turn. Be careful there's not a whole lot of metal to play with. You don't have to run the tap all the in, little over ½ to ¾ of the tap will do.

4.)I put a few wraps of Teflon tape around the threads of the sensor before tightening it on *note; not the best idea to tighten the sensor all the way down to the plate, since it is pipe threads, there not cut straight the are meant to be tapered, tight is fine




I also added some black RTV gasket to the inside of the threads just as another step, and because i tighten the sensor all the way to the plate. Then let it set by the wood stove to let it dry for a good bit, like 30 mins or so. had the stove rocking like 106°F

5.) carefully with the newly modified plate i checked clearance once again, and put the bolts back on, *note; i also put a wrap of Teflon tape around the bolts* it is where you should really replace the gasket. i didn't think to far ahead and didn't get one. Witch was a huge mistake because i have just a little bit of seepage from the gasket now so Highly recommend that you get that gasket before doing this.


I will get you guys the Torque specs

6.) once was all good and tight, i added the fluid back with a nifty little hand pump. Checked for any obvious leaks and did the wiring.
i took the black wire from the sensor (ground) and just put it on that removable plate just in front of the inspection plate. use a scotts pad to clean the area just so it will get a good connection, was a 10mm bolt (i think this bolt was stranded because the 10mm was just a little big for it)


i put the wire up and around the slave with some loom on it and used some handy zip ties to keep it up and away from the drive shaft, plus this way if your going through some brush your won't rip the wiring out as easily. and just tied into the existing loom around.


for the rest is just running the wire into the cab for your gauge.

as i said above i just wanted to share this with all you guys on how i did it. if you have question on how i did it feel free to ask, i might not know it, but that's why everyone else is around.

Thanks for reading and enjoy your gauges!!

'97 f250 EXLB 236k
- LT285-75-R16 Toyo Mountain Country
- DIY intake 6637
- 3 Gauge pillar w/ Glowshift's White 7 color gauges
- PHP's phoenix 6 pos chip
- Beans Diesel D66 turbo
- Overhead console mod
- Auto down windows mod
- I want injectors!!


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post #2 of 10 Old 01-02-2012, 11:27 PM
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So what sort of temp range are you seeing, under what circumstances?
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post #3 of 10 Old 01-02-2012, 11:42 PM
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Nice. Where in Oregon are you?

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post #4 of 10 Old 01-03-2012, 05:37 AM
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I like! Curious to see what kind of temps you see on it


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post #5 of 10 Old 01-03-2012, 12:49 PM
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I had one on my 94 using a Fabcraft Metalworks billet PTO cover. Thinking back, it would run around 180-ish in 5th (that's where it will heat up) unloaded on the highway. I could get it up to 250-ish towing the fifthwheel. It would take a good long pull to get it there, but it would settle down (slowly) just cruising. I researched some options for putting a cooler on it, but never went through with it. Not cheap for a good stacked plate cooler, Mocal/Tilton/Weldon pump, Temp Switch, lines and fittings! Cheers!

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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post #6 of 10 Old 01-03-2012, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madpogue View Post
So what sort of temp range are you seeing, under what circumstances?
well when i left for about a 500mile trip, i was seeing like 160 until i started going up Mt. Shasta. after i was at about 180 the whole way to Sacramento

'97 f250 EXLB 236k
- LT285-75-R16 Toyo Mountain Country
- DIY intake 6637
- 3 Gauge pillar w/ Glowshift's White 7 color gauges
- PHP's phoenix 6 pos chip
- Beans Diesel D66 turbo
- Overhead console mod
- Auto down windows mod
- I want injectors!!


Working on the lead foot
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post #7 of 10 Old 01-03-2012, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glovemeister View Post
Nice. Where in Oregon are you?
came from Central Oregon Redmond/Bend area

'97 f250 EXLB 236k
- LT285-75-R16 Toyo Mountain Country
- DIY intake 6637
- 3 Gauge pillar w/ Glowshift's White 7 color gauges
- PHP's phoenix 6 pos chip
- Beans Diesel D66 turbo
- Overhead console mod
- Auto down windows mod
- I want injectors!!


Working on the lead foot
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post #8 of 10 Old 01-03-2012, 03:16 PM
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Oh nice I live north of there, passed Madras a ways.

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post #9 of 10 Old 01-03-2012, 07:06 PM
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The temps on mine were generally when towing from Tehachapi to Eagle Lake (northwest of Reno) via the 395 in the Eastern Sierra and on to Mt Shasta via Bieber/New Bieber/Dana/McCloud and the 89. Cheers!

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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post #10 of 10 Old 01-03-2012, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Feeley View Post
I had one on my 94 using a Fabcraft Metalworks billet PTO cover. Thinking back, it would run around 180-ish in 5th (that's where it will heat up) unloaded on the highway. I could get it up to 250-ish towing the fifthwheel. It would take a good long pull to get it there, but it would settle down (slowly) just cruising. I researched some options for putting a cooler on it, but never went through with it. Not cheap for a good stacked plate cooler, Mocal/Tilton/Weldon pump, Temp Switch, lines and fittings! Cheers!

Damn, 250 degrees? My auto never sees more than about 200 before I wind it down and let things cool.
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