Fuel pump?

[baderic03]

Ok I was just thinking any benefits from getting rid of the mechanical pump for a electric one from a 99-2003 truck?

Just curious

[Nitro41]

Guys report better starting, better MPG's, smoother idle.

I'd love to do this mod, but even goin as cheap as you can, its still gonna be atleast $400, then at that point, you say "for a few bucks more just get a airdog"

next thing you know your into this fuel setup $500+

its a good supporting mod, but I'd rather spend my money on somthing thatll give me bigger bang for the buck (hpop, water/meth, I/C)

[baderic03]

I can get a new frame mount pump for $80 what else would I need

[dazdillenger]

The pump usually doesn't come with the bracket and wiring pigtail. If it does, that's a great deal. Other than that, just build a relay system, nice water seperator (dahl150 or similar), and some fuel lines. I have the frame bracket/wiring harness kicking around somewhere if you need it, Good luck, it's a great upgrade!

[Patrick Feeley]

OBS and SD fuel systems are completely different. OBS are regulated return with a two-stage mechanical pump. The fuel filter is on the low pressure side of the pump. The SD is dead-headed (no return). The OBS filter bowl cannot handle the high pressure of the SD pump. You will need to get a filter and regulator setup along with all the plumbing. Cheers!

[73rvhauler]

I know I had ended up with a stock pump leak at weep hole so when I did my system I cheated and did a beans system . It is a great system don't have to worry about a failure that is hard to get to . Other great thing was adjustable fpr I have lots on tap now for bigger injectors. Oh and a clean valley you can do a full sd turbo and intercooler swap and there is no bowl to get in the way.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

[mjonesjr]

Doing the e-fuel swap (no matter which way you go) is a VERY good modification to do. The electric fuel pump is more reliable, truck starts easier, idles smoother, fuel PSI is constant unlike the mechanical pump, better filtration, cleaner engine, and a couple other reasons.

I got mine done originally for $500. I have since added another $150 to my install by swapping in a Stanadyne FM100 fuel/water separator and Stanadyne 100 watt fuel heater. If you live in an area where the temperature will be below 40* at any time, I would recommend the Stanadyne FM100 and heater. The heater has a built in thermostat that turns the heater on when the fuel temp is at 40* and off at 48*. That keeps the fuel from "gelling" (gelling is the forming wax crystals).

[baderic03]

So wat do I need to do the swap

[mjonesjr]

Originally Posted by baderic03

So wat do I need to do the swap

Here is the parts list I have from my swap.

Parts List:
1. Super Duty 7.3 single fuel pump & bracket - $80
2. Aeromotive Regulator (Jeg's Part #: 27-13109) - $144.99
3. Jeg's 1" Liquid Filled 0-100 PSI Gauge (Jeg's Part #: 555-41013) - $18.99
4. Holly Fuel Pressure Safety Switch (Jeg's Part #: 510-12-810) - $25.99
5. Jeg's -6AN to 3/8" Hose Barb (Jeg's Part #: 799-670300) - $7.99
6. Painless Wiring Relay Base (Jeg's Part #: 764-80133) - $5.99
7. Mr. Gasket Fuel "Y" Block (Jeg's Part #:720-2961) - $23.99
8. Misc. fittings (locally sourced) - $50
9. 1x Filter Heads (FleetFilter.com) - $20
10. WIX/Napa Gold 2 Micron Fuel Filter (FleetFilter.com) - $25
11. Stanadyne FM100 Fuel/Water Separator (TheDieselStore.com) - $70
12. Stanadyne 100W side load heater for FM100 (TheDieselStore.com) - $57
13. 3/8" Fuel Injection rated fuel hose (O'Reilly Auto Parts) - $50 total