Compression Ignition Addict
Join Date: May 2009
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first off sorry about the long post, but when i did my motor i learned so much that i think everyone should know.
rebuilding it is the cheapest way... and you can up grade if you want. about a grand for the kit, about the same the machine work, and if you know a guy you can get away with about 500 or less to put it back together unless you know what your doing and do it yourself. injectros, turbo, fuel system if your wanting more power. I suggest putting in the comp 910 valve springs no matter what its going to be apart anyway. I have a lil over 5000 in my motor but i have a few buddys that saved me some on machine work and helping me put the motor back together and such that includes.
machine work with new valves(~750-1200) depending on shop and how much you have done, dont forget to get the crank checked and sized before you order the kit so if you need oversized bearings you can order them with the kit.
910 valve springs(90-100)
reassembly(depending on shop and long block or short block)(750-1000)
all new fluids
if you think you have any parts failing, powerstreering, water pump etc do it while its on the engine stand. and if you do not use the EBPV much i would take it off and weld up the holes. so much easier to get to the back two bolts with that out of the way.
also spray the srap out the up-pipes before you go to replace the seals on the upper parts that bolts to the turbo because i cracked mine(its about 100 bucks at ford if i remember right)
96 F-250 ext. cab long box 4x4
Intake, auto meter(oil psi, tranny,boost, EGT) IDM mod, .030 over rebuilt motor, comp 910's, BDP d66 turbo, BDP stage one injectors, BDP fuel system, t500, BDP custom tuned 6pos, coolingmist water/meth, 3in downpipe 4in duals, dana 60 swap, 203* t-stat
traction bars, 6.0 intercooler
BTS, 300/200 sticks, studs, pushrods, t4 mount, NEW PAINT
GOAL= 600+ hp