Bleeding clutch master... need help

[deselpowered]

So it all started when i took off from 2nd and got ready for 3rd, and noticed my clutch was stuck to the floor. I'm in the middle of the intersection at the point, i managed to get over to the side of the road. Baffled, i got out of the truck and looked at the pedal. Never worked on pedals before it took a second to figure out what happened. That cheap plastic bushing that connects he clutch pedal to the master cylinder had broke. well here's the real kick in the teeth, i didn't break it. it had be fixed by putting the broken bushing back in and wraping it up in electrical tape.

So i it turns out i have to end up buying the whole clutch/break pedal Assembly, clutch master cylinder and slave.

Now for my problem... i have spent the last 4 hours bleeding the pig, have still have no pressure in the pedal. Slave bleeder is shooting fluid but only when you manually pump it. (good time to say we forgot to fill slave before putting it on, oops still new at this) can't make heads or tails about the stupid plastic thing that is holding the slave cylinder compressed.
We've tried: cap on; cap off; half & fully pumping the clutch; fast & slow pumping; manually pumping the slave.... i don't have fancy tools like a vacuum pump or a vice. just all the hard and dirty way. any advice or anything would be amazing. thanks for reading and for the advice.

~Garret

[Patrick Feeley]

This is the way I've always done it (bleeder valve or not ... plenty of experience as I went through three cracked slaves):

Unclip slave from bellhousing and let it hang from the hose
Disconnect the master rod from the pedal assembly linkage
Remove the reservoir cap and rubber bladder piece (make sure reservoir is full)
Slowly cycle the slave by hand about ten times making sure everything goes uphill from the slave
Reassemble and you should be good.

Cheers!

[madpogue]

^^^^ Reverse bleeding ("burping") is the way to go.

Sorry for the double dose of 20/20 hindsight, but first, you didn't have to replace the whole thing just because of the craptastic bushing! The bushing is available at your FLAPS or the dealership. But that's still a crappy setup; there are two better fixes, one using a simple drill stop collar and one using a Heim joint to replace the eyelet on the pushrod. At worst, the pushrod is replaceable.

Second, even if the hydraulics had failed, the way to go is with a pre-assembled pre-bled master/line/slave kit. R&I in about 20 minutes.

[deselpowered]

i had to buy the pedal assembly because of one of the plastic washers broke so it's wasn't spinning right, the rod when the linkage goes was total worn to a point and the linkage it's self was worn so bad it's almost through the metal (ill get pictures soon)

[IMG][/IMG]

thanks for the tips, will get back onto it tomorrow. felling sick
i've looked into fixing this or making it sure that i would never have this problem again, but talked to another guy that has my same truck and he says the easy way is just to keep a stock pile of the plastic clips in your glove box. i have 2 clips at the moment so should be good until i get out of school, hopefully.

[Patrick Feeley]

Try the drill stop (shaft collar) method. Clip the lock tabs off the plastic bushing. Use a little grease to lube it. Get a 7/16" shaft collar and use it to hold the Rod/bushing on the pedal linkage shaft. I had the same bushing on my 94 for 175k (and still going strong) using this method. Cheers!

[madpogue]

^^^^^ +1; I had one of those plastic bushings (by itself) go out in one week. Another twist on the stop collar trick - get a piece of 1/2"OD x 7/16"ID brass tubing, cut off a piece just long enough to fit in the rod eyelet, use that in place of the plastic bushing.

[deselpowered]

all fixed!! so happy to have my truck back.
Thank you Patrick Feeley i followed what you said. t
Thanks for all the other advice about the cheap plastic bushing, I'm going to look into getting a permanent fix for that.