New DB Electrical starter, no morning start

[sgg93]

I swapped the DB electrical starter in last night, and the cranking speed is much better now. It starts up quicker. But, when the truck sat last night from about 1030 pm to 7am, I had a very high cranking speed, glow plugs working, but it wouldn't start. I let the glow plugs heat again, rolled it a little bit, popped the clutch and it started right up. Is it possible that the new starter is pulling more power than my 675 CCA batteries are willing to share with the glow plugs and PCM?

[elrojo63]

shouldn't be. Starter isn't drawing any juice while you're plugs are on before you crank. Maybe you have some going bad? Let the key on for a while longer and see if it starts better then

[sgg93]

New glow plugs, UVCH's, rebuilt injectors. It was starting fine (really, really slow cranking speed was hurting it below 30 degrees) with the old NAPA starter. I've got power to the plugs (I can hear the relay buzzing and see the voltage drop on the guage), but I'm wondering if, while cranking, there isn't enough power left to run the plugs and fire the injectors. It seems like removing the power draw of the starter (rolling it off) allows it to start. But I'm no expert.

[elrojo63]

Have you load tested the batteries?


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[sgg93]

I have not. They're about a year old now. It just did the same thing when I went to start it this morning. I noticed I'm not seeing any RPM's on the tach until I turn the key from start back to on. Bad CPS? Of PCM issues (since every light in the dash comes on when cranking).

[elrojo63]

Ive never seen a cps only give a reading when in the on position nor do I have any idea why it would act like that. All the lights on the dash should come on it start position as it also doubles as gauge check position. Id load test the batteries and go from there

[madpogue]

Originally Posted by sgg93

I noticed I'm not seeing any RPM's on the tach until I turn the key from start back to on.

Just a total WAG here, but this sounds like it could be a bad ignition switch. Shoot, I have the EVTM packed away. But usually, there's a circuit that is on in RUN, but goes off when you turn to START (e.g. radio and wipers go off when you crank). And there's a circuit that stays on in both RUN and START (e.g. the PCM, gauges, etc). I'm thinking if you're seeing the tach tweak only in RUN, not START, then I'm thinking that circuit is losing its contacts on the ignition switch in START. This would also explain why it would bump start.

OOOhhh, here's an idea for a test - If it's a manual, set the parking brake, block a wheel and PUT THE TRANNY IN NEUTRAL, since this test will bypass the clutch switch. Then turn the key to RUN and jumper the starter relay on the fender. If it starts, that shows everything load-wise is kosher, and the key switch is the thing to suspect. Ideally, while doing this test, have an assistant watch the dash while you jump the relay; see if the tach moves while it's cranking.

[elrojo63]

^^^ genius


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[sgg93]

I load tested the batteries today. While they were hooked together, I got 350amps on the passenger battery at like 11.6 volts. They're healthy. I would suspect CPS due to the no tach reading, but if I roll it off to start, I can let it run 30 seconds, turn it off, and it will crank right back up with the starter. I straightened up all my connections (I had some iffy ones), and if it doesn't start in the morning, I'll jump the relay, and if that doesn't do it, I'll swap the CPS tomorrow. The one in there is from Advance (I hate buying stuff from advance, but they were the only ones open on Sunday, and It's been working over a year), but I've got a Ford one in the glovebox. Thanks guys.

[Young-SC-Owner]

Dang, 675 CCa. I read yesterday these trucks like 800's or better.

Just something I read